During September a few years ago, we traveled to Murtle Lake before smoky conditions in smothered the area and we decided to shorten our time there once the smoke moved in. On the second day we paddled the west end of the west arm of Murtle Lake. We launched from Birch Beach and paddled past Smoker Island. The wide bay at the mouth of File Creek and Anderson Creek is shallow and muddy so we kept our distance from the treed shoreline. The distance from Birch Beach to the landing at Diamond Lagoon was about 7.5 km.
At the end of the previous day and in the early morning, there was some smoke, but there was also some clearer skies too. We got an early start to take advantage of calm conditions on the lake.
The mountains to the north of Anderson Lake and Anderson Creek are part of the Mobley Range. There is a trail to Anderson Lake, but access to Mobley Mountain would be bushwhacking.
There is also a trail to a launch at File Creek. the river can be paddled for about 4 km upstream. McDougall Lake is another 5 km beyond. Draining into File Creek is Kostal Creek, running down from Kostal Lake (6km from the confluence). An old trail can be hiked to Kostal Lake, but it is mostly impassable at this time. The Goat Peaks rise north of File Creek.
We entered Diamond Lagoon by paddling a short distance down the Murtle River. The lagoon area is through a lava field. At the end of Diamond Lagoon are rapids on the river. A sign warns paddlers not to pass the sign.
A rough landing can be made on the south shore. A trail follows the river down to McDougall Falls.
We landed in a small bay below the Diamond Lagoon shelter. We had lunch and explored the area a bit. The shelter would be welcome in the rain or the cold, but it is a bit primitive otherwise. There was an outhouse and a bear cache there for campers.
The smoke continued to roll in as we paddled back along the south shore of the lake.
We paddled past the Tropicana Campsite and then across the lake to our own campsite, a total of 16 km.
On a day with better conditions, we would have hiked down to the falls and back, but paddling in the smoke limits the views, but it also takes a toll on the lungs. We spent 3 day at Murtle Lake, but we plan to return to do some more hiking in the area, perhaps in the North Arm next time.
Note – this was posted on KamloopsTrails.net but as I wind down that site, I am transfering kayaking posts to this site.
A favorite combination for summer recreation is to paddle a lake, then hike around it. In August I launched my kayak and paddled the 3 km loop around the lake.
After securing the boat, I hiked the 3.5 km trail around the lake, enjoying some of the larger douglas fir trees by the single-track trail.
There were a few hikers and dog-walkers on the trail and a couple of boats out on the water, but it was a quiet day at McConnell Lake.
This year we have paddled the lake twice, we snowshoed the area twice, and we have hiked the lake loop, each time enjoying the high country forests.
This grove leads to a shortcut trail down to the Dogwood Marshes.
Some video footage was taken during the paddle and the hike, now available on YouTube:
Other paddle-hike locations include Stake Lake, Isobel Lake, Lac le Jeune, Paul Lake, and a number of other lakes that have trails nearby.
We paddled the 20km+ length of the lake and camped on the east end of the lake. We hiked down to Sylvia and Goodwin Falls on the second day and paddled back on the third day.
Click the YouTube link on the menu bar for more KamloopsKayak videos.
To get to Murtle Lake, we have to drive to Blue River, then drive up into the mountains for 23 km. At the trailhead we have to load the kayaks onto carts and portage for 2.5 km. At the boat launch on Murtle Lagoon, we then paddle for 12 to 14 km to camp at a marine campsite. On this trip to Murtle Lake, we camped on Leo Island. On this particular trip, I did a solo paddle and hike to Central Mountain. I paddled 1.5 km to the trailhead at a sign on the shoreline. There wasn’t much of a landing so I hauled my kayak up the rocky shoreline, then put on my hiking boots.
The forested trail was steep and grown-over in some sections. It is not hiked much so the trail is indistinct so some navigation was required.
The hike to the top of the mountain is 7.5 km. Near the top I passed through a subalpine meadow with views down the West Arm of Murtle Lake. Bears frequent the area so I made noise on the way up. The open meadows on top are part of a caribou migration route, but I didn’t spot any.
The alpine area was open with meadows and rock outcrops, and wide views.
From the southern edge of the summit. I could see down to Leo Island below, our marine campsite.
From the summit, I chose to continue east to the edge of the slope break to see if I could see down to the lake.
From a viewpoint the North Arm of Murtle Lake was below, with the Wavy Range above, on the east side.
I continued farther north and came to a viewpoint of the north end of the North Arm of Murtle Lake. The Murtle River drains into the lake from the Cariboo Mountains in Northern Wells Gray Park.
This turned out to be a long day of hiking. The return hike is 15 km, but I added more distance by traversing across the top of the mountain east, then north.
The hike is really only for experienced backcountry hikers who can navigate and be self-sufficient. It is not a hike I will do again, but I am happy to have done it this day. A Google EArth Fly-Over is shared here for an overview of Central Mountain.
At the upper end of the Lac du Bois Grasslands at 983m (3225 feet) elevation the area turns to forests, ponds, lakes, marshes, backroads, hills, and a few trails. To the south of McQueen Lake are the Nature Conservancy of Canada Lac du Bois Conservancy lands, accessible on foot to hikers and snowshoers. To the north are forested hills, a series of cutblocks in the hills between 1000 and 1400m elevation). To the east is the upper end of the Lac du Bois Grasslands Protected Area. Rough backroads can be hiked or biked to the McQueen Creek grasslands. The Community Grasslands Trail bears east for 14 km to Deep Lake. Opax Mountain is on the west side. Some tracks lead up its slopes, but it is remote and not an easy area to navigate. There are several articles on this site on hiking Opax Mountain.
TheMcQueen Lake Environmental Education Center is run by School District #73. Visitors are asked to not use the trails when students are on-site. There are alternate routes to the lakes, ponds, and meadows (see the map below). Just 4.5 km past McQueen Lake is the Isobel Lake Recreation Site with a number of opportunities for outdoor recreation. Pass Lake Recreation Site is 2.5 km west of McQueen Lake.
In this interactive Google map, information, links, and images are provided. Use the controls to see it as a full screen map, to zoom in or out, and to pan to different areas.
A few Images of the McQueen Lake area are provided here:
From Sun Peaks Village to McGillivray Lake is a 6 km route on a gravel road. Along the way and nearby are snowmobile access points, backroads for mountain biking, lakes for paddling, and trails for hiking, cross country skiing and snowshoeing. The Google Map below has information, photos, and links on these recreational opportunities. The map has zoom controls, pan capacity, sharing functions, full screen view, and embedded photos.
The route is a good gravel road. It is possible to continue south to the Amphitheatre Lake turn and complete a loop route back to Whitecroft on the Eileen Lake Road. The road also descends from the Cahilty Plateau down to Neskonlith Lake (closed in winter).
a bald eagle at Morrisey Lake
We will return to paddle, snowshoe, cross country ski, and hike the McGillivray Lake area.
Emar Lakes Park was created in 1996 as a wilderness area of small lakes, potholes, and wet areas in a forested area off Highway 24. The lakes are used by fishermen, but there is also a lake chain loop with portages for canoeists and kayakers. Access is from Janice Lake Recreation Site or from Willowgrouse Recreation Site. The trails/portages are mostly user maintained and have become difficult with windfall. To do the loop counter-clockwise, paddlers would have to do the following:
launch at Janice Lake (link to an article) at N51 29.457 W120 24.410
paddle 1.5km to the landing spot (at N50 29.115 W120 25.090)
portage for 1030 metres to Club Lake (past Next Lake)
paddle to the end of Club Lake (780m)
portage 100m to Boulder Lake
paddle across Boulder Lake (400m)
portage 400m to Willowgrouse Lake
option to paddle Willowgrouse Lake (670m) then portage out the campsite (500m) or
paddle across Willowgrouse following the loop (230m)
portage 150m to Emar Lake
paddle across Emar Lake (1.2 km)
portage 450m to a pothole lake then 100m into Sedge Lake (or push through to Dytiscid Lake)
paddle across Sedge Lake (220m)
portage 700m to the end of Janice Lake
paddle to the start (400m)
All of the trails are currently closed with windfall and danger trees on the route. Hopefully Parks can find some funding or perhaps volunteer user groups can help keep the routes open (count me in)? A BC Parks map is included here and more information can also be found on the Parks website (link).
Moose Valley is located 22 km west of 100 Mile House, accessed by the Gustafson Lake Road. The Moose Valley Access Road turns off and follows the chain of lakes to a campsite on Marks Lake. The road does continue onto the end of Maitland Lake, but it is a rougher section. Paddlers can start at either lake and work their way southeast to Canoe Lake.
Although all of the portages are short, they are not suitable for canoe or kayak carts. Each boat will have to be carried to the next lake, pond, or waterway. In spring, though, there is more water between the lakes allowing for paddling through wetlands or hand-lining in shallow areas. There is one rocky portage near the Beaverlodge Lakes.
At the southeast end of the chain, the route goes from Long Lake to Moose Lake to Canoe Lake in a loop. From the south end of Canoe Lake, there is a portage out to an access road for a second vehicle pick-up.
The lakes are shallow and don’t make great fishing. After June 1st, mosquitoes are likely. After August 1st the wetlands will be drier meadows so the ideal time would be in May. Options include camping at Marks Lake and going right through in a long day or paddling part way through the chain and camping at rough campsites on Canoe Lake or Long Lake. Another option is to go out and back in a day.
The through route is only 7.5 km end-to-end from Marks Lake to the portage out to the Gustafson Lake Road. The advantage of doing it all in a day (or camping at the trailhead and doing it all in a day) is that the canoes or kayaks can go through the chain unloaded, making the portages much easier.
The right time to do this route is in May or early June to have higher water levels, low mosquito populations, relatively warm conditions, and spring birds and ducks along the way. We haven’t done this route yet, but its on our list for this year.
The first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit is a challenge with difficult portages, some rough campsites, and long paddles. The return to Bowron Lake, the second half of the Circuit, is a much more enjoyable wilderness experience. The Bowron River empties into Lanezi Lake then there is another shorter downriver paddle to Sandy Lake, an easy paddle with the current. From Sandy Lake there are no long or difficult portages all the way to the launch/landing at the north end of Bowron Lake.
There are wide sandy beaches on Sandy Lake and fine scenery back up the Cariboo RiverValley. The weather had improved by this point.
The Cariboo River runs along between Needlepoint Ridge on the north and the Cariboo Mountains on the south side. There was a fresh layer of snow on the 8000 foot mountains.
Sandy Lake is a fine spot for paddle-camping but it is an even better with clearing skies.
From Sandy Lake, there is another 3.7 km paddle down the river. Paddlers can choose to continue downriver to Unna Lake to camp and to hike the trail down to Cariboo Falls or they can veer into Babcock Creek to start the uphill (but reasonable) 1.1 km portage to Babcock Lake. For kayakers, a series of short portages becomes a series of chores – unloading, hauling, and reloading. Across Babock Lake is a 2.8 km paddle followed by two shorter portages with one brief paddle in-between (0.4 km, 0.6 km, 0.3 km). Once we entered the Spectacle Lakes, the portages were over and we just paddled down the lake to a fine campground on a point with views in both directions
The route continued up the lake to the northeast, for 13 km down Spectacle Lake into Swan Lake and then to the outlet. The west end of Bowron Provincial Park has lower and more rounded hills as compared to the mountainous east side.
After days of wind and rain, it was wonderful to have calm and clear conditions for the final part of the trip.
From the north end of Swan Lake a channel drains down toward Bowron Lake and the Bowron River enters from the east along this 3km section of easy paddling.
The start of fall brought some color the shores of Bowron Lake. The final paddle across Bowron Lake is 7 km. The BC Parks landing is just a dock and steep walkway in a marshy area, followed by a steep trail, an awkward set-up for a loaded kayak. We would land over at the boat launch on the west side next time and walk back to get our vehicles.
After having done the whole circuit, in retrospect, we found the first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit to be a demanding challenge for long kayaks, especially in marginal weather and muddy conditions.
The second half was an enjoyable backcountry paddle in beautiful terrain. The Return to Bowron Lakes section from the Cariboo River to the end of Bowron Lake is so good that we may return to paddle the west end only. This shorter route goes from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake (with an extra hike to Cariboo Falls), a 60 km out-and back route with 3 short portages, although the portages could be done with an unloaded boat if camping on Spectacle Lake.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit is one of the top paddling destinations in the world, a week-long paddling, portaging, and camping wilderness challenge. Reservations are needed to venture onto the circuit and an orientation is required before starting on the 2.4 km portage to Kibee Lake. We had our long kayaks loaded onto kayak carts to pull up the hill early in the morning. Our first mistake was not to bring large portage packs (70 – 100 L) to take the heavier items out of the boats. With all the weight in the hull storage chambers, the boat was hard to pull up the hills and it was very difficult in muddy and rocky sections. Some kayaks have a good handle system for an easier pull. My kayak had a poor design and the handle was pulled right out, leaving a gaping hole in the top of the boat. I then pulled it from the rear (aft) handle and eventually pulled that one out too. With a complicated strap design, the kayak could still be pulled, although more slowly and with much grumpiness. It was demanding to pull a weighted kayak the 2.8 km distance, but we eventually made it to Kibee Lake for an easy 2.2 km paddle across the lake.
The first half of the trip has all the hardest portages. The Bowron Lakes Circuit is better for canoes than for kayaks. The gear can be unloaded into portage bags and two people can pull the empty canoe on a larger cart. Canoes passed us on the portages and we passed the canoes on the water.
The second portage was 2.0 km, but it was steep, rocky, muddy, and rough. My 18.5 foot kayak took a beating with the ends bowing up and down as it went over rocks, logs, and through mud holes. On Indianpoint Lake, water poured into the cockpit from a significant crack under the seat, right at the edge of where the kayak cart was. We all found the first two portages to be difficult and discouraging, but we camped on Indianpoint Lake that first night before the rains came in. We enjoyed the campsite (#5). Our friends Ian and Wilma were much better prepared for this venture and Ian had packed Crazy Glue so the crack on the bottom of the boat was partly repaired, though it would not stand for more heavy portaging.
On Day 2, at the end of Indianpoint Lake, the third portage was much easier, a big relief for a kayaker with a boat with three holes in it. We paddled down the west arm of Isaac Lake and stayed at a larger campsite (#15 on Wolverine Creek) with an open shelter, a welcome retreat in the rain.
The paddle down Isaac Lake is a long one. Although we had hoped to get right down the lake, wind, hail, then rain forced us to camp at a primitive site. The tent pads were raised, but were not filled with proper material so they filled up with water. That was a wet night. Isaac Lake is the longest lake and is prone to wind and rain (more grumpiness set in).
The next day we paddled down to the end of Isaac Lake with some rain. The kayak leaked a bit but another paddler (Bob) gave me some kevlar tape to cover the crack. After lunch at the shelter at the end of the lake, we started down the portage to McCleary Lake. Although a lot of it was downhill, it was very rough and quite steep at the bottom. This ordeal resulted in another crack in the hull of the boat. The campground at the bottom of the Isaac River cascade was full, so wet and discouraged, we paddled down McCleary Lake, but we were pleased to find the old (1935) cabin unoccupied so all 5 of us crowded into the small, dark single room cabin. By foraging we found enough materials to start a fire in an old wood stove (thanks to Ian), so we were able to dry out some of our gear.
I used the last of the kevlar tape and crazy glue on the hull of the boat after finding a second crack. I made the decision to unload the boat for any portage for the rest of the trip. Any further expansion of the cracks would make the boat impossible to stay afloat. Another paddler gave me some duct tape later on the same trip. With all the support offered and some care, we got the damaged boat all the way through the Circuit.
The weather started to improve on the 4th day as we paddled across McLeary Lake and down the Cariboo River.
We could finally see some of the rugged Cariboo Ranges rising above the lakes.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit can be done in 3 to 4 days if paddlers have a good portage pack system and two people for each boat. The days would be long and tiring, but if the weather cooperated, it can be done. The portages are harder for kayakers. The right boat*, a larger canoe cart, and a good portage pack would make a big difference.
The first half of the Circuit is a demanding one with 3 hard portages and one easier one. Isaac Lake is a long paddle, but quite enjoyable if done in 2 days. We had the wrong setup and some poor weather so the first 3.5 days were less enjoyable, although the paddling on the lakes and river was still very nice.
The second half of the Bowron Lake Circuit was much nicer, to be featured in an article to follow (Dec. 19, 2016 titled Return to Bowron Lake).
The right boat would a be a stiffer one – fiberglass or kevlar, but it would still have to be a high capacity boat. A long plastic boat needs a larger kayak cart with large radius wheels. In the end, Delta Kayaks repaired the boat and they showed me their new designs that avoid these kinds of problems.
Emar Lakes Park was created in 1996 as a wilderness area of small lakes, potholes, and wet areas in a forested area off Highway 24. The lakes are used by fishermen, but there is also a lake chain loop with portages for canoeists and kayakers. Access is from Janice Lake Recreation Site or from Willowgrouse Recreation Site. The trails/portages are mostly user maintained and have become difficult with windfall. To do the loop counter-clockwise, paddlers would have to do the following:
launch at Janice Lake (link to an article) at N51 29.457 W120 24.410
paddle 1.5km to the landing spot (at N50 29.115 W120 25.090)
portage for 1030 metres to Club Lake (past Next Lake)
paddle to the end of Club Lake (780m)
portage 100m to Boulder Lake
paddle across Boulder Lake (400m)
portage 400m to Willowgrouse Lake
option to paddle Willowgrouse Lake (670m) then portage out the campsite (500m) or
paddle across Willowgrouse following the loop (230m)
portage 150m to Emar Lake
paddle across Emar Lake (1.2 km)
portage 450m to a pothole lake then 100m into Sedge Lake (or push through to Dytiscid Lake)
paddle across Sedge Lake (220m)
portage 700m to the end of Janice Lake
paddle to the start (400m)
All of the trails are currently closed with windfall and danger trees on the route. Hopefully Parks can find some funding or perhaps volunteer user groups can help keep the routes open (count me in)? A BC Parks map is included here and more information can also be found on the Parks website (link).
We try to visit Painted Bluffs every year. It can be done by driving the Sabiston Creek Road and then down to Copper Creek. but this is a long and awkward route. Our preference is to paddle over from Savona, a 6.5 km route (each way) with a 1.5 km lake crossing.
There is a beach below the park suitable for landing a boat. Be careful of poison ivy in the area behind the logs. Follow the dry creek drainage into the foot of the hills, then pick your own route to explore the multi-hued cliffs, stained with copper, cinnabar, and iron. Each time we explore the area, we pick a different route. The combination of perspectives and light conditions makes each visit a new experience.
From the east side, we found new views down to the lake.
Each perspective brings new detail.
One of the few places the blazing-star can be seen is at Painted Bluffs in June and July. It was in bloom on barren sandy hillsides.
After lunch on the beach, the winds had picked up. This is always a risk in paddling Kamloops Lake. Crossing Kamloops Lake is best done in ocean-kayaks (16'+). We angled off into the wind, a 2.5 km challenging crossing, but once across, we followed the shoreline west with the wind at our backs.
Images of Painted Bluffs stay with us for the months to follow.
Badger Lake is a fine paddling destination, one of the forty lakes of our area within an hour’s drive. To get to Badger Lake, turn off the Sun Peaks Road onto the Knouff Lake Road and continue past Knouff Lake without turning off, until you reach the BC Forest Service Site on the northerat side. Some fishermen also take the Orchard Lake Road up from Highway 5. Both are good roads once the road surface dries out.
The Badger Lake Recreation Site has 18 campsites and a primitive boat launch. The lake has clear water and some marl shoals. I watched a loon swimming under my boat in a back channel, its black and white speckled back clear under the water. The narrow channel to the west is called Spooney Lake and this quiet marsh-lined channel offers some additional paddling. On a spring day, small rainbow trout were jumping with a recent mayfly hatch. Eagles seemed to be everywhere. I spoke to a fisherman who said he had spotted 18 on the pevious day. I couldn’t spot their nests, but they flew along the lakeshore and perched in the large trees overhead. A large wooded isand (800m x 200 m) separates Badger Lake from the Spooney Lake Channel. The whole lake is surrounded by trees but at one point, snow-capped Mount Baldy filled the north horizon, 43 km away. Much of the area to the north and west has been logged, but little of this can be seen from the water.
There are numerous backroads to explore on mountain bike and the Orchard Lake Trails are only 4.5 km down the backroad to the southwest (link to Orchard Lake Trails). I have hiked the Orchard Lake trails, but almost all of the trails can also be biked (deferring to any horseback riders since the trails are primarily a horse-hiker system. The area is a bit remote so come prepared for wildlife, backroad conditions,unmarked routes, and few people.
Nearby Knouff Lake and Community Lake (link) are also good for paddling. 2013 is a good year to bring your boat onto all 3 lakes.
At the end of Azure Lake is a magical spot. Rainbow Falls Campground sits about 5km from the east end of the lake. Angus Horne River flows into the lake here, tumbling over Rainbow Falls.
Millennia of silt deposits have created a sandy crescent of a beach from the river mouth west around the bay. Campsites in the woods fronting the beach are private and have picnic tables. An old trapper's cabin sits in the woods, amidst the blueberry bushes. The campsite has 3 food caches, 3 washrooms and about 10 campsites. Fire rings are provided and there is ample firewood available. A short trail leads back to a viewpoint of the Falls. The area is in the Interior wetzone with large cedar trees, devil's club, and berry bushes. We filled up our bags with blueberries and had them for breakfast and for after-dinner dessert. This is now our favorite marine campground.
The sandy beach extends into the lake for great swimming and paddling. The water was cool, fed by the Azure River, draining the glaciers to the north end of Wells Gray. We paddled to the end of the lake, and landed on the beach at the mouth of the Azure River. We paddled, then walked up the river for a ways, a wonderful spot for lunch and photos. The loop down to the end of the lake and back by the other shore was 11km, perfect for an afternoon's exploration.
The next nearest marine campground is at the west end of the lake, about 19km away (a follow-up post on Azure Marine Campgrounds to follow). From Rainbow Falls to Four and a Half Mile Campground, the shoreline is steep, with very few places to land, but we did see a half dozen waterfalls along the way. The north shore is dominated by Buchanan Ridge, the view across the lake from the campground.
We didn't want to leave this site, but we had 50km of paddling ahead of us. Rainbow Falls rivals the best beaches on Murtle Lake, but is even more remote and far less visited, This is on our return visit list, especially for the season after mosquitoes and in the blueberry harvest.
After a number of years visiting Painted Bluffs Provincial Park, we now only visit by boat. The land route is not easy, nor pleasing. After a long drive to Copper Creek, there is no suitable access because of private property, fencelines, and the railway. On the other hand, a boat can launch from Savona (or Tobiano) and go across the lake, following the shoreline up to the beach at the foot of the bluffs. The landing is an easy one on a gravel beach.
A short hike up the slopes and across the railroad tracks is required. There is no discernible trail, but a route follows the dry stream bed up to the bluffs. Sinuous ridges extend from the hill above. The dominant colors are green (copper), red (cinnabar), orange (iron and algae on rocks). Nothing grows on the narrow ridges, nor in the rills between them. The foot of the bluffs is an eerie spot. A visitor can explore the foot of the bluffs easily or climb side hills for a better view.
On our last visits, we have chosen to climb the ridges for different perspectives, following the colored ridges to new viewpoints.
The narrow ridgetops are a scramble suited to good boots and steady balance and the gullies are difficult to traverse, but the diversity of colors, shapes, and materials brings new rewards to explorers willing to climb to the heights of the bluffs.
There are a few rocky ridges intermixed with the eroded bluffs too. A few scrubby plants can be found among the rocks. In the gullies are pieces of calcite, sheets of mica, and variety of interesting rock samples. First Nations people gathered copper nuggets at the bluffs and nearby at Copper Creek. When we travel to the site, we practice no impact exploration, leaving samples where they were found. On a previous trip, we watched bighorn sheep traversing the upper bluffs, but we try to stay on the tops of ridges or in the bottom of stream gullies, not wanting to erode the sides of the ridges. With almost no vegetation on the bluffs, we were surprised to see blazing stars in bloom on a rocky-sandy ridge.
Painted Bluffs retains its other-worldly beauty because it is in a remote spot. Visitors need to respect the heritage values of the site, taking only photos away with them and leaving no trace of their passing.
