Access to Dogwood Marshes snowshoeing area is from the Bush Lake parking area off the Lac le Jeune Road. There are a number of routes through the marshes and up into the hills above for any day of exploration in the winter. It is easier ti follow “stomped-in” tracks than it is to break a new trail, especially when the snow becomes heavy or crusty. We started at the marshes and followed tracks up onto the lower slopes of Hull Hill for 2.5 hours.
The established snowshoe tracks were firm and well-defined through the forest.
Once we had climbed a number of slopes to the east we had fine views west to the three summits of Chuwhels Mountain.
We chose to break trail from the McConnell Forest Service Road down to Teal Pond. Sometimes the route was okay, but we often “post-holed” through two feet of crusty snow. When we finally reached the Dogwood Marshes, there were wet spots and a risk of getting wet (one of our group broke through).
We snowshoed in the Dogwood Marshes and the flanks of Hull Hill a number of times and on each outing we took a different route. There are no marked trails, but snowshoers who know the area establish tracks and everyone who stomps the tracks adds to the network of “trails”, routes, and explorations.
This is the best snowshoeing area in the whole region, an unofficial network of tracks in the forest.
There are several articles on the website on this snowshoeing area. Use “Dogwood” as a search term for more information.
Moose Valley is located 22 km west of 100 Mile House, accessed by the Gustafson Lake Road. The Moose Valley Access Road turns off and follows the chain of lakes to a campsite on Marks Lake. The road does continue onto the end of Maitland Lake, but it is a rougher section. Paddlers can start at either lake and work their way southeast to Canoe Lake.
Although all of the portages are short, they are not suitable for canoe or kayak carts. Each boat will have to be carried to the next lake, pond, or waterway. In spring, though, there is more water between the lakes allowing for paddling through wetlands or hand-lining in shallow areas. There is one rocky portage near the Beaverlodge Lakes.
At the southeast end of the chain, the route goes from Long Lake to Moose Lake to Canoe Lake in a loop. From the south end of Canoe Lake, there is a portage out to an access road for a second vehicle pick-up.
The lakes are shallow and don’t make great fishing. After June 1st, mosquitoes are likely. After August 1st the wetlands will be drier meadows so the ideal time would be in May. Options include camping at Marks Lake and going right through in a long day or paddling part way through the chain and camping at rough campsites on Canoe Lake or Long Lake. Another option is to go out and back in a day.
The through route is only 7.5 km end-to-end from Marks Lake to the portage out to the Gustafson Lake Road. The advantage of doing it all in a day (or camping at the trailhead and doing it all in a day) is that the canoes or kayaks can go through the chain unloaded, making the portages much easier.
The right time to do this route is in May or early June to have higher water levels, low mosquito populations, relatively warm conditions, and spring birds and ducks along the way. We haven’t done this route yet, but its on our list for this year.
The only Hawaiian island that has navigable rivers is Kauai. The Hanalei River is the second largest (in flow) on the island, descending from the upper slopes of Mt. Wai’ale’ale to the ocean in 15.7 miles. The lower part of the river flows slowly through dense forests, past taro fields, and then it winds through a flat coastal estuary. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is a bit inaccessible to visitors, except by kayak to the lower half of the Refuge.
We paddled upstream into the current for 2 km to the forested Refuge.
The Refuge protects endangered waterbirds, but there are also 18 other species that use the wetlands area. We spotted a few birds in the dense forest and at the water’s edge.
This is a quiet area and kayaks can enter the watery corridor discretely without scaring off birds, amphibians, and reptiles.
Box turtles sunned themselves on logs at the river’s edge.
From the Refuge we paddled downstream to the mouth of the river where it entered the incoming waves of Hanalei Bay.
We landed at Black Pot Beach to watch the surfers in the crescent-shaped bay. We paddled upstream for the last kilometer of our 10 km route on the Hanalei River.
The first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit is a challenge with difficult portages, some rough campsites, and long paddles. The return to Bowron Lake, the second half of the Circuit, is a much more enjoyable wilderness experience. The Bowron River empties into Lanezi Lake then there is another shorter downriver paddle to Sandy Lake, an easy paddle with the current. From Sandy Lake there are no long or difficult portages all the way to the launch/landing at the north end of Bowron Lake.
There are wide sandy beaches on Sandy Lake and fine scenery back up the Cariboo RiverValley. The weather had improved by this point.
The Cariboo River runs along between Needlepoint Ridge on the north and the Cariboo Mountains on the south side. There was a fresh layer of snow on the 8000 foot mountains.
Sandy Lake is a fine spot for paddle-camping but it is an even better with clearing skies.
From Sandy Lake, there is another 3.7 km paddle down the river. Paddlers can choose to continue downriver to Unna Lake to camp and to hike the trail down to Cariboo Falls or they can veer into Babcock Creek to start the uphill (but reasonable) 1.1 km portage to Babcock Lake. For kayakers, a series of short portages becomes a series of chores – unloading, hauling, and reloading. Across Babock Lake is a 2.8 km paddle followed by two shorter portages with one brief paddle in-between (0.4 km, 0.6 km, 0.3 km). Once we entered the Spectacle Lakes, the portages were over and we just paddled down the lake to a fine campground on a point with views in both directions
The route continued up the lake to the northeast, for 13 km down Spectacle Lake into Swan Lake and then to the outlet. The west end of Bowron Provincial Park has lower and more rounded hills as compared to the mountainous east side.
After days of wind and rain, it was wonderful to have calm and clear conditions for the final part of the trip.
From the north end of Swan Lake a channel drains down toward Bowron Lake and the Bowron River enters from the east along this 3km section of easy paddling.
The start of fall brought some color the shores of Bowron Lake. The final paddle across Bowron Lake is 7 km. The BC Parks landing is just a dock and steep walkway in a marshy area, followed by a steep trail, an awkward set-up for a loaded kayak. We would land over at the boat launch on the west side next time and walk back to get our vehicles.
After having done the whole circuit, in retrospect, we found the first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit to be a demanding challenge for long kayaks, especially in marginal weather and muddy conditions.
The second half was an enjoyable backcountry paddle in beautiful terrain. The Return to Bowron Lakes section from the Cariboo River to the end of Bowron Lake is so good that we may return to paddle the west end only. This shorter route goes from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake (with an extra hike to Cariboo Falls), a 60 km out-and back route with 3 short portages, although the portages could be done with an unloaded boat if camping on Spectacle Lake.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit is one of the top paddling destinations in the world, a week-long paddling, portaging, and camping wilderness challenge. Reservations are needed to venture onto the circuit and an orientation is required before starting on the 2.4 km portage to Kibee Lake. We had our long kayaks loaded onto kayak carts to pull up the hill early in the morning. Our first mistake was not to bring large portage packs (70 – 100 L) to take the heavier items out of the boats. With all the weight in the hull storage chambers, the boat was hard to pull up the hills and it was very difficult in muddy and rocky sections. Some kayaks have a good handle system for an easier pull. My kayak had a poor design and the handle was pulled right out, leaving a gaping hole in the top of the boat. I then pulled it from the rear (aft) handle and eventually pulled that one out too. With a complicated strap design, the kayak could still be pulled, although more slowly and with much grumpiness. It was demanding to pull a weighted kayak the 2.8 km distance, but we eventually made it to Kibee Lake for an easy 2.2 km paddle across the lake.
The first half of the trip has all the hardest portages. The Bowron Lakes Circuit is better for canoes than for kayaks. The gear can be unloaded into portage bags and two people can pull the empty canoe on a larger cart. Canoes passed us on the portages and we passed the canoes on the water.
The second portage was 2.0 km, but it was steep, rocky, muddy, and rough. My 18.5 foot kayak took a beating with the ends bowing up and down as it went over rocks, logs, and through mud holes. On Indianpoint Lake, water poured into the cockpit from a significant crack under the seat, right at the edge of where the kayak cart was. We all found the first two portages to be difficult and discouraging, but we camped on Indianpoint Lake that first night before the rains came in. We enjoyed the campsite (#5). Our friends Ian and Wilma were much better prepared for this venture and Ian had packed Crazy Glue so the crack on the bottom of the boat was partly repaired, though it would not stand for more heavy portaging.
On Day 2, at the end of Indianpoint Lake, the third portage was much easier, a big relief for a kayaker with a boat with three holes in it. We paddled down the west arm of Isaac Lake and stayed at a larger campsite (#15 on Wolverine Creek) with an open shelter, a welcome retreat in the rain.
The paddle down Isaac Lake is a long one. Although we had hoped to get right down the lake, wind, hail, then rain forced us to camp at a primitive site. The tent pads were raised, but were not filled with proper material so they filled up with water. That was a wet night. Isaac Lake is the longest lake and is prone to wind and rain (more grumpiness set in).
The next day we paddled down to the end of Isaac Lake with some rain. The kayak leaked a bit but another paddler (Bob) gave me some kevlar tape to cover the crack. After lunch at the shelter at the end of the lake, we started down the portage to McCleary Lake. Although a lot of it was downhill, it was very rough and quite steep at the bottom. This ordeal resulted in another crack in the hull of the boat. The campground at the bottom of the Isaac River cascade was full, so wet and discouraged, we paddled down McCleary Lake, but we were pleased to find the old (1935) cabin unoccupied so all 5 of us crowded into the small, dark single room cabin. By foraging we found enough materials to start a fire in an old wood stove (thanks to Ian), so we were able to dry out some of our gear.
I used the last of the kevlar tape and crazy glue on the hull of the boat after finding a second crack. I made the decision to unload the boat for any portage for the rest of the trip. Any further expansion of the cracks would make the boat impossible to stay afloat. Another paddler gave me some duct tape later on the same trip. With all the support offered and some care, we got the damaged boat all the way through the Circuit.
The weather started to improve on the 4th day as we paddled across McLeary Lake and down the Cariboo River.
We could finally see some of the rugged Cariboo Ranges rising above the lakes.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit can be done in 3 to 4 days if paddlers have a good portage pack system and two people for each boat. The days would be long and tiring, but if the weather cooperated, it can be done. The portages are harder for kayakers. The right boat*, a larger canoe cart, and a good portage pack would make a big difference.
The first half of the Circuit is a demanding one with 3 hard portages and one easier one. Isaac Lake is a long paddle, but quite enjoyable if done in 2 days. We had the wrong setup and some poor weather so the first 3.5 days were less enjoyable, although the paddling on the lakes and river was still very nice.
The second half of the Bowron Lake Circuit was much nicer, to be featured in an article to follow (Dec. 19, 2016 titled Return to Bowron Lake).
The right boat would a be a stiffer one – fiberglass or kevlar, but it would still have to be a high capacity boat. A long plastic boat needs a larger kayak cart with large radius wheels. In the end, Delta Kayaks repaired the boat and they showed me their new designs that avoid these kinds of problems.
In late October in Kamloops fall colours adorn the riverbanks, especially on the North Thompson River. I launched at Pioneer Park and paddled downstream to the confluence, then turned upstream paddling steadily against current to the Halston Bridge and back.
This same route was paddled in March (Up the North Thompson) and will be hope to return in early spring and fall in the next year. I spotted an osprey, two great blue herons, a kingfisher, and eagle, a flock of buffleheads, seagulls, and the usual crows, magpies, and other birds. No other boats were on the rivers on this mild fall day. Our “orange corridor” on the Thompson Rivers is a special place in October.
While on Kauai, we stayed on the North Shore and chose to paddle the Hanalei River on a cloudy, warm day. We rented boats from Kayak Hanalei and launched into the river. These were 11 foot sit-on-top kayaks. Rudderless, tubby, buoyant, and slow.
We turned upstream and paddled for about 2.2 miles into the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. With a constant downstream flow, the kayaks stopped and turned if we stopped paddling, difficult for photography.
The shoreline was all flowering shrubs, vines, and tropical trees. The upper part of the river became narrow and shallower. In the Refuge, we spotted many birds, turtles, and fish.
We turned and paddled downstream for 3 miles to the mouth of the river where it emptied into the surf at Hanalei Bay. Entry into the ocean would be difficult, better suited to surfboards than tubby kayaks.
The final leg of 6 miles of paddling was upstream and into the wind. These types of kayaks are neither efficient, nor comfortable, but the effort is worth the experience on the river.
Kauai has the only navigable rivers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Hanalei River is the second longest. We hope to paddle the Wailua River next time.
Although we really enjoyed the river, we found the boats to be klunky, wandering, and uncomfortable. We know that rental companies buy them because novices can get back in if they spill, the boats can take a beating, and they are inexpensive but it is like playing tennis with a pickleball racquet. Next time we will paddleboard on the river.
Stand up paddle boarding on flat water is a lot easier than SUP on the sea. Off the south shore of Kauai we can launch the board through the surf and head out through the waves past all the breakers to the rolling ocean, but its not easy to stay on top. From the shore, we can watch the skillful paddlers cut through the waves, making it look easy.
On my first attempt last year in windy conditions, I was launched a few times. Since then, I took a lesson, bought a board and went out to practice on flatwater a few times. But the ocean is different. In my first two times, I needed to kneel to get out and back, though I could stand up and paddle out past the breakers. On this last day, I stood up to paddle out, sat down to take some pictures (not easy to do), then stood up to paddle back. The prevailing winds from the southeast moved the board downwind if I sat or stopped, but the zone out past the breakers is a great spot to paddle, swim, or SUP.
Photography from a SUP is always a bit of a challenge on rolling, changing seas. Sitting own is the safest way not to sacrifice the camera to the sea gods.
Each day I try to stand up for more of the SUP-on-the-sea challenge. For athletes who surf, snowboard, and skateboard, SUP comes more naturally. For the rest of us, SUP on the sea is an incremental process of improvement. Soon we will heading down the coastline and back.
The Cariboo River starts under the western side of the crest of the 8000 foot glaciated Cariboo Mountains. On the other side of the Cariboo Range, McBride and the Fraser River lie 27 km to the east. The northern end of Wells Gray Park is 27 km to the southeast.
There are many large icefields that drain down into the Upper Cariboo River Valley at 2010 m (6600 feet). The river flows west and is joined by a number of creeks also draining glaciers and snowfields. After about 35+ km it enters Bowron Provincial Park.
McLeary Lake is the junction point of the Isaac River (draining 38 km long Isaac Lake) and the Cariboo River. From McLeary Lake, Bowron paddlers go 6.3 km downstream to Lanezi Lake.
From McLeary Lake this view is to the east up the Cariboo River Valley into the Cariboo Range.
Even in early September, snow covered the peaks along the Cariboo River Valley as we paddled downriver.
The river empties into Lanezi Lake then into Sandy Lake (a 20 km section) The evening light shone onto the upper slopes the Cariboo Mountains, as seen from the north shore of Sandy Lake.
From Sandy Lake, the river continues its westward flow into Unna Lake, then south out of Bowron Lake Provincial Park. Paddlers completing the Bowron Circuit veer northwest into Babcock Creek for 400 m, then must portage up Babock Creek for 1.2 km to Babcock Lake. From Unna Lake, The Cariboo River itself runs south for 9 km where the Matthew River joins it from the east, but it cannot be paddled safely. Cariboo Falls is 1.5 km downstream, an 82 foot drop.
From the confluence with the Matthew River, the Cariboo River continues its southward path. There is a dangerous gorge 3 km downstream from the Matthew River confluence (upstream from Kimball Lake). About 3 km farther downstream the river is the centerpiece of Cariboo River Provincial Park. The river meanders through the park for 24 km before draining into Cariboo Lake.
Cariboo Lake and the channel to the smaller lake is about 13 km long, then the river continues its southward journey for about 9 km then turns west for another 16 km, joining the Quesnel River at Quesnel Forks. There are several rapids along this section of the river so paddlers will want to pull out by the southern end of Cariboo Lake.
The Cariboo River is a tributary of the Quesnel River which flows west then northwest to Quesnel where it meets the Fraser River. It is difficult to measure the length of the Cariboo River as it meanders through valleys, but it is about 140+ km from its source to Quesnel Forks. We paddled about 30 km of its length before turning north toward Bowron Lake. We would like to paddle south from Unna Lake to the end of Cariboo Lake (43 km) in this remote valley in the Cariboo Mountains some day. Its on our list….
The paddle up the Valleyview River Corridor is a quiet one on a drizzly, grey October morning.
The section from the Valleyview Boat Launch to Dallas is 5 km each way, about right for a good paddle upriver and back. The upstream paddle along the south shore side passes many riverfront homes on Thompson Drive then along a section of shrubby clay banks between the CPR line and the river on the way to more Dallas riverfront homes..
The two “horns” of Harper Ridge stand above the silt cliffs on the north side of the river.
Cottonwoods, aspens, and other riverbank deciduous trees offer some color in fall. Geese and ducks are still on the river in fall, taking to flight when a 18 foot green kayak approaches.
The return paddle is a quick one with the river’s current moving the kayak to 8 km/hour downiver past the Wanda Sue paddlewheeler back to the Valleyview Boat Launch.
Paddlers can launch and land at Valleyview Boat Launch, Pioneer Park, Riverside Park, or McArthur Island to paddle the greenspace corridors right in the middle of the City. We started paddling the rivers in February this year and will continue paddling the river circuits through November before putting the kayak away for the winter.
Little Shuswap Lake is a bigger lake to paddle in our area. A circuit around the entire lakeshore is 19 km. On a mild fall day, we paddled over 16 km, returning by the southeast shoreline.
The best place to launch is at the Chase Memorial Park.
The far eastern shore is 7 km down the lake under the slopes of Squilax Mountain.
Beaches line the shoreline of the Little Shuswap Indian Reserve. The Adams Plateau highlands rise to the northeast of the lake.
Little River runs from Shuswap Lake to Little Shuswap Lake for 3.5 km. All the migrating salmon follow this river upstream in the fall.
Little Shuswap Lake is a big enough lake to get some strong winds so paddlers should check the forecast before venturing out. This day, though, was a calm and sunny one, a fine day for a kayak on the lake.
Walloper Lake is a small high country lake just off the Coquihalla Highway near Lac le Jeune, but it is always a pleasant paddle, especially on a quiet midweek day.
There is a good boat launch at the Provincial Park picnic area.
There are a few cabins and some homes along the lakeshore, but much of the lake has a forested shoreline.
We were fortrunate to have mild weather on a fall day.
Reflections of both the sky and lodgepole pines followed us around the 4.7 km shoreline.
With no wind the lake had a glass-like appearance.
The reflected color in the lake had more color than the sky…
On weekends in the summer this is a busy fishing spot, but in the off-season it is a quiet retreat for a peaceful paddle.
By October, there are very few other boats on Paul Lake, but the water in the lake is still warm and if the day is not windy, paddling is still a good activity. Conditions usually don’t become too cold until mid-November.
The easiest launch is from the beach at the provincial park. A loop around the whole lake (article) is about 12.5 km.
On this paddling day, silvery light on the east end of the lake greeted me. For paddlers, the light on the water is part of the scenery.
The sun tried to break through the haze at the marshy east end of the lake.
The south side of the lake has forested steep slopes. A breeze moved the kayak down the lake toward Gibraltar Rock.
It is always best to check the wind forecast before heading out. As the winds picked up, the day’s paddle was shortened to about half the lake. A few more outings in the kayak will end the season so each day on the water is valued. We may get to do the other end of the lake before the end of fall….
We paddle the lakes of the Interior all summer, then once the river becomes quieter, we return to paddle upstream and back. Our favorite launch is at Pioneer Park.
The current on the South Thompson River is slower than the North Thompson or the combined Thompson River so we can make good progress upstream. On this day the wind was blowing from the east so it was a slow process to advance to the Yellowhead Bridge and beyond.
It takes anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes to get to the bridge, depending on the season (the river runs quicker during freshet) and the winds. There is a nice green space corridor past the Jack Gregson Trail.
Backroads Mapbook
Past the bridge the river runs faster as gravity “slingshots: the water around the curves. With an S-shape between downtown and Valleyview, it is usually a good idea to paddle across the river to wherever the water is flowing more slowly.
The green corridor on the sides of our rivers is home to birds and small mammals. We paddle upstream, then turn the boat downriver whenever the time seems right. The more open skies of the west lay in front of us.
The boat launch at Pioneer Park is our return landing spot after a good paddle up the river.
When fall arrives, we return to paddle the river. The boat launch at McArthur Island becomes a mud flat in the late fall, but there is still enough water to launch out in September and October, although each year is different. Once out in the Thompson River, the water moves quickly so progress is slow upstream. We paddle up then around the east end of Rabbit Island.
In some years during freshet, much of Rabbit Island is under water, but by September sand banks rise above the river on the south side.
At the west end of the island, we can see down into Kamloops Lake, a good paddle one-way with a pick-up at Cooney Bay. With the loop route, we turn upsteam and find the slowest water to engage. Sometimes it is better to hug into Rabbit Island (especially in low water) and sometimes it is better to go up the middle of the channel. The water is always faster next to McArthur Island, though.
As we work our way upstream, reflections in silver light remind us that the extra effort to paddle upstream is all worth it.
This is a route we do every year so we will return to repeat the paddle in 2017. Watch for us on the river.
Even though this lake was right next to the Okanagan Connector, we found it be a delightful spot for an easy paddle. There is a pull-off into a small Recreation Site for northbound vehicles.
The launch spot is a good one with lots of parking. The paddle around the shoreline is about 4 km.
Grassland hills surround the lake.
Reflections from the sky into the lake on a calm summer day was a bonus for a day of kayaking.
We spotted numerous birds around the lake including this row of ducks.
A heritage building stands over the east side of the lake. One of the Hudson Bay Brigade Trails passed through just in behind this spot, on its way to Quilchena.
Photos tell the story far better than words.
We will return to paddle Courtney Lake again, especially in spring to watch the waterfowl and shoreline birds.
The established snowshoe tracks were firm and well-defined through the forest.
Once we had climbed a number of slopes to the east we had fine views west to the three summits of Chuwhels Mountain.
We chose to break trail from the McConnell Forest Service Road down to Teal Pond. Sometimes the route was okay, but we often “post-holed” through two feet of crusty snow. When we finally reached the Dogwood Marshes, there were wet spots and a risk of getting wet (one of our group broke through).
We snowshoed in the Dogwood Marshes and the flanks of Hull Hill a number of times and on each outing we took a different route. There are no marked trails, but snowshoers who know the area establish tracks and everyone who stomps the tracks adds to the network of “trails”, routes, and explorations.
This is the best snowshoeing area in the whole region, an unofficial network of tracks in the forest.
There are several articles on the website on this snowshoeing area. Use “Dogwood” as a search term for more information.
