While paddling and hiking on Salt Spring Island, we launched out of Fulford Harbour. We were able to hand launch in low and hide tide from a point along the Isabella Point Road. Drummond Park is also fine for launching, but only at high tide. At the other spot 1.8 km along the road, we were able to drive right onto the beach for an easy launch and landing (at N48 45.480 W123 26.992).
On a windy day, paddlers can stay in the harbour going up one shore and back by the other for about 7.3 km. The ferry uses this harbour too, but the smaller ferry has a small wake and poses no problem.
We paddled out along the western shoreline and around the corner of Isabella Point for a return paddle of 10 to 15 km. The paddle along the other shoreline and out towards Beaver Point and back is about 16 m.
The crossing over to Portland Island (Gulf Islands National Park) is about 12 km return. To go right around the island and back is about 18 km. This route involves crossing Satellite Channel which is the main route for all the ferries. If paddlers try this route, they should bring a marine radio and tune in to Channel 11. There are 3 campsites on the island for a marine basecamp adventure (link to more information).
We enjoyed the south end of Salt Spring Island for its quieter roads, forested trails and scenic coastline using both Ruckle Park and Fulford Harbour as launch spots.
Ruckle Provincial Park is a popular camping location on Salt Spring, but the rocky shores make launching and landing difficult, especially for the longer ocean kayaks. Paddling books and websites suggest launching in Fulford or Ganges Harbor, but we found a spot in the park that works fine, with a bit of extra work. We parked at the day-use area and hauled our boats across the lawn, then down a narrow steep path to a small gravel cove.
We were able to launch and land there, even at low tide. From there, we went around Beaver Point then southwest around Eleanor Point toward Fulford Harbor.
This is a scenic route, passing rocky bluffs and small islets. Seals appeared briefly in the water and several were basking in the sun on Jackson Rock.
We were able to land on shell beaches on islets too to take a break and to explore tidal pools. We were amused by the spelling on the sign and we decided to rename the islet “Shoelace Eyelet.”
We enjoyed paddling in Fulford Harbor and returned to paddle there twice more in the week. The only boat we encountered in the Harbour was the ferry to Syndey. We were surprised by how quiet it was and how small a wake it left. Fulford Harbour was a quiet and pleasant paddle each day.
From this launch we could also explore Portland Island to the southeast or Prevost Island (Gulf Islands National Park) to the north, planned for future trips to the southern Gulf Islands.
Salt Spring Island can be used as a basecamp for kayaking in the Gulf Islands. Some of the areas to paddle include Fulford Harbour, Long Harbour, Ganges Harbour, Prevost Island, Wallace Island, and coastline sections wherever a good launch can be found. Paddling out of Ganges Harbour is a good choice early in the morning before the crowds come to the markets and parking will be impossible, let alone getting the boats down to the water. We chose a weekday morning and parked at Centennial Park, hauling boats down the Ganges Centennial Harbour concrete ramp (with permission from the Harbour Authority). We launched into calm waters behind the 150m breakwater, paddling out the entrance channel among a wide assortment of moored vessels.
Ganges Harbour is a busy place and there were many boats heading out and coming in and float planes landing and taking off. The winds were strong from the west too so we had to work hard through incoming waves, watching for all the traffic on the go. By taking a route close to the islands, we had some protection from the wind. Our destination was the Third Sister Island where there is a crushed shell beach on the northwest end of the island.
Locals call this spot Chocolate Beach. We were pleased to be the only visitors to the beach at this time. It can be a busy spot with boaters landing on the beach at high tide on weekends. A trail climbs up the spine of the island with a unique outhouse along the way.
We had lunch on the white shell beach and explored a bit before heading back to Ganges.
This 7 km paddle is the same one that kayak companies offer their clients for a day excursion. On a less windy day, we would have explored the shoreline beyond the islands, but we chose to head back with the winds behind us, staying close to the islands as power boats, fishing boats, water taxis, tugs, float planes, and ferries passed our kayaks.
There are two or three other launch spots for the harbour – one behind Moby’s Pub, one at the end of Churchill Road, and a couple of hand launch spots only suitable for high tide. On a calm day, paddlers could go around into Welbury Bay or Long Harbor (about 10+ km each way or along the south shore toward Yeo Point (10km each way) and beyond to Prevost Island.
We paddled several other spots off the coast of the island and found Fulford Harbour to be the most enjoyable. The whole south end of the island was less busy, but still very scenic.
Kayaking the Gulf Islands requires some good research about launch spots (for both high and low tides), wind and weather forecasts, local currents and open channel conditions, and good kayaks suitable for ocean paddling. Salt Spring Island is a good spot for exploration and we will return to paddle and camp on Prevost and Wallace Islands on a future trip.
On a windy day, paddlers can stay in the harbour going up one shore and back by the other for about 7.3 km. The ferry uses this harbour too, but the smaller ferry has a small wake and poses no problem.
We paddled out along the western shoreline and around the corner of Isabella Point for a return paddle of 10 to 15 km. The paddle along the other shoreline and out towards Beaver Point and back is about 16 m.
The crossing over to Portland Island (Gulf Islands National Park) is about 12 km return. To go right around the island and back is about 18 km. This route involves crossing Satellite Channel which is the main route for all the ferries. If paddlers try this route, they should bring a marine radio and tune in to Channel 11. There are 3 campsites on the island for a marine basecamp adventure (link to more information).
We enjoyed the south end of Salt Spring Island for its quieter roads, forested trails and scenic coastline using both Ruckle Park and Fulford Harbour as launch spots.
