Even though snows still linger, we can start paddling on the river. Although the Pioneer Park boat launch is still closed, we can get our boat down to the river with a little extra work. Since the water is cold, we used a wetsuit and stayed close to the shoreline.
The south-facing shoreline was clear of snow but the north-facing shoreline still has some snow and ice.
There were lots of ducks (mallards and buffleheads), geese, some swans, crows, and an eagle on the river. Lots of spring-shed feathers were floating on the water.
This first upriver paddle and back downstream to the launch was 7 km. As the season progresses we lengthen the paddling distance. We can also head upstream on the North Thompson which has a stronger current.
After a long winter, a return to paddling is welcome and we look forward to 8 more months of paddling on the rivers and lakes.
While paddling on Harper Lake, I spotted some movement at the remote west end of the lake. As I approached closer I could see two cubs in the open as well as the longer/larger mother partially hidden in the forest. Cougar cubs stay up to 2 years with their mother before they are driven off to fend for themselves. These two were already over a year old so they will be on their own in the spring.
Cougars are naturally secretive and stay well hidden, but the cubs were curious about the 18 foot green kayak out in the lake. I stayed as still as I could so they sat and watched me for a while.
The mother cougar kept an eye on me, though. Mostly she stayed hidden, but I was able to drift to a clearer view. Cougars are polygamous, with males mating with several females. The females are fertile by 2 to 3 years of age and can mate at any time of the year. Babies gestate for up to 96 days then the mother will look for a den to have her young. One to four babies are born in a litter. Their eyes are closed at birth, but are open withing 2 weeks. The kittens are nursed for 5 – 6 weeks then start to eat meat.
When I drifted too close to the shoreline, the young cougars retreated to the cover of the bush, but still remained curious.
The mother cougar decided that was enough and led her young along the south shoreline in search of prey. They range in an area of 5 to 25 square miles so there were probably many miles to go before the ed-of-the-day sleep.
We launched our kayaks in Comox Lake with the intention of paddling down the lake far enough to see the end of the glacier-fed lake, but strong winds came up so we ended up paddling a loop around the east end of the lake only.
We parked adjacent to the campground and launched from the beach into the protected bay. There is no charge for canoes and kayaks.
We had an audience as we paddled out onto the main body of the lake.
There was a boat upside down by the point, capsized by the strong winds/ Our ocean-going kayaks were okay in the waves and wind, but the lake is cold and open waters is not a good choice for a recreational paddle.
A loop around the east end of the lake is about 5.5 km so we did it one and a half times to get in decent workout.
A loop all the way around Comox Lake would be 32 km, too far for one day, but it is possible to paddle down around the corner to see the end of the lake and back with a 13 km paddle, our goal for the next visit. .
On the west side of Stake Lake is an osprey nest at the top of a broken-top fir tree. Eggs were laid by the mating pair and then were incubated for about 40 days. The chicks hatched then nested for 50 – 60 days this summer and each time I returned to kayak the lake, I checked their progress. From my kayak with a 250 mm zoom lens I could get images of the mother and chick in the nest.
The adult male was often nearby, keeping an eye on possible predators. I could also watch it fishing, circling then doing a talons-first dive into the lake.
Loons were also fishing on the lake and kept an eye on their young one.
Ducks also stayed in small flocks, especially with an adult osprey nearby. Ospreys mainly feed on fish but they can also feed on ducks, birds, muskrats, mice, snakes, and squirrels. It is, however, the only member of the hawk family that primarily eats fish.
In the fall, the ospreys will start their long migration from Stake Lake to Central America. We will return to paddle the lake and watch for ospreys next spring and summer.
Heffley Lake is one of our finest lakes to paddle and it can be a busy spot in summer so we usually paddle there in spring or fall. There is a good boat lunch on the east end suitable to cartop boats or kayaks, but the parking area is limited so it can be full on a weekend in summer. On this fall day in late October there were no other boats on the lake. Paddling the whole shoreline is about 12 km, but on this day the lake was down so I avoided some of the shallower areas.
Sunny weather with no wind made this paddle route a next to last quiet paddle for 2017.
Reflections in the lake were an added bonus. The slopes of Mount Embleton stand above the north side of the lake.
The osprey’s nest on the small island was empty. They migrate to Central America for the winter. I paddled around the lake and headed back on the other shoreline,
After a dry summer the whole lake was down a meter and gravelly breaches flanked much of the lake.
Not long after this outing in first week of November the kayak was stored and secured for the winter. In spite of some medical issues and a smoke-filled summer, I logged 60 days of paddling in 2017, slightly less than 2016.
For fishermen or paddlers, Jacko Lake is one of the first lakes to be ice-free in spring and one of the last lakes to freeze over in late fall. It is surrounded by grasslands at 917m elevation (3000 feet). A paddle around the shoreline is about 4.4 km, an hour of paddling. Lakes above this are all surrounded by high country montane forest so its nice to paddle out in the open among the rolling hills. In summer the lake is prone to an algae bloom and a number of lakes like this encourage looking for clearer lakes that have better intakes of fresh water. On this outing, the lake was clear and had a few fishermen scattered across the lake’s surface. It was a clouds-and-sunny fall day with silver light cast across the sky.
Two longer bays have marshy areas where we can spot ducks and the occasional muskrat.
This snag stands over the western shoreline, twisted like a corkscrew.
Swans were feeding in a shallow bay in the southwest corner, but took to flight at my approach in the kayak.
A bit of blue sky fringed the view to the east, the start of a few days of nice weather.
Jacko is one of our favorite lakes to paddle so we will return in March to greet the coming of spring.
We try to paddle Paul Lake each year in the spring and fall when there are few, if any, boats on the lake. On this last mid-October day the winds were calm for a quiet outing on the cooler waters of the lake. The lakeshore had receded quite dramatically with the whole lake surface down 3 – 4 feet. The cartop boat launch area was deserted, making it easy to unload and prep the boat for a workout paddling down the lake and back.
When there was no wind, the colorful leaves rand darker trees reflected in the lake as I paddled down and around Gibraltar Rock.
The paddle down to the western end of the lake and back is 7 km. With the sun lower in the sky, the south shoreline gets no sun so a return by the same shoreline is a good bet on a cool, sunny day.
There were a few ducks and geese on the lake and I spotted a muskrat swimming near a marshy area twice.
On the return paddle, silver waves rolled down the lake toward the kayak.
It is rare to see another boat on the lakes or the river by mid-October. Since it is colder, I wear a spray skit, a good paddling jacket, neoprene boots, and good paddling gloves. I work at keeping my feet dry on the launch (that’s not easy) and I have a change of shoes ready at the truck when I am done. We will paddle into November waiting for milder days with no wind, before storing the kayak for the winter months.
Skimikin Lake lies in a valley between Turtle Valley and the end of the Salmon Arm of Shuswap Lake. It is a well-used recreational area with a fine BC Rec Site and numerous trails. For paddlers, there are several launch spots at the Rec Site.
The lake is divided into two parts by a narrow point. In fall the water had been drawn down in a hot, dry summer, so the launch was on dry mud flats.
A paddle around the whole shoreline is about 2.5 km. On this day, I paddled nearby Phillips Lake first for a 5 km on the water.
By October it is rare to see another boat on either the South or North Thompson Rivers. The boat launches remain open but we are more likely to see dog walkers than power boats. We continue to launch our kayak onto the river to paddle various routes on the river. Downstream is always easier but requires vehicle support so most outings are to paddle upstream then back or vice versa. One of the best routes is to launch at Pioneer Park and paddle upstream to Valleyview and back. The river is low in fall but that leaves gravel bars to launch from and many places to land. Although the water is cooler, it is not yet cold. Neoprene boots are a good choice for wet launches and landings. We also wear a spray skirt in the fall and early spring.
The shoreline has few visitors, but there are many ducks, geese, seagulls. On this day we also spotted a young great blue heron and some migrating spring salmon.
On a windless day, the sky is reflected into the peaceful river.
Geese take up residence along the banks of the river for most of the winter. They were spotted in groups of 25 – 30 in several places on the South Thompson River.
We paddle upstream for about 45 minutes before turning around, taking our time to paddle and drift downstream in the last days of paddling for the year.
In most years we can paddle into November, but we are cautious about temperature and wind so we choose the right times, days, and routes. We have been able to get the boat into the water at the end of February some years so the kayaking season is sometimes 9 months.
The Puntledge River flows out of Comox Lake and continues right through the City of Courtenay, flowing into Comox Harbour. Kayakers can launch their boats at a public boat launch at the end of 20th Street in Courtenay Airpark. From there, paddlers can either go upstream for a ways or they can paddle downstream through the saltwater estuary to the sea.
There was a salmon run in progress so there were many seals fishing in the waterway. We also spotted eagles, great blue herons, and many ducks and geese.
At high tide the whole of Comox Bay can be explored but at low tide we need to follow the river channel into thebay,, heading toward Goose Spit and the shoreline of Comox. The paddle to the spit and back is about 10 km.
Paddlers could also opt to venture past the spit over to Sandy Island Provincial Park (add an extra 14 km return) if wind conditions are favorable. It is a shorter distance to launch from Union Bay instead.
When Comox Bay is at high tide we can paddle over the flats on the south side of Courtenay. Comox Glacier and the peaks of Strathcona Provincial Park are visible from the bay.
We paddled back upstream and continued past two bridges to Lewis Park. We landed at the Airpark, happy with our paddling experience, so much so that we returned the next day at high tide to explore the area some more.
Phillips Lake lies on the Skimikin Lake Road between Turtle Valley and Skimikin. the fastest approach from Kamloops is to drive on Highway 1 East to Squilax and turn onto the Squilax – Turtle Valley Road. Follow the valley toward Skimikin then turn onto Ptarmigan Road. A good parking area and boat launch is located on the northwest side of the lake.
The whole lake is surrounded by reeds and rushes. In fall, the lake was fairly quiet, but the lakeside would be full of blackbirds, marsh wrens, and ducks in the spring.
A paddle around the lakeshore is 2.5 km, but there is also marshland which can be paddled on the far end. This would be better in the spring when there is more water and before the water lilies fill the channels. In summer and early fall, an algae bloom also fills the lake. Spring is the recommended time to paddle this lake.The lake sits between the Fly Hills on the south (see below) and Black Mountain on the north. To the northwest are the rocky slopes of Squilax Mountain (seen above).
In fall, the Turtle Valley and the Squilax Valley were filled with color. We continued east to paddle Skimikin Lake on the same day, another find small lake for paddling.
We have paddled the Shuswap River three times before, starting from a hand launch just below the Skookumchuck Rapids and going downstream for 30 km to Enderby. We did this twice right during the salmon run (see the links below). an unique experience. This time we paddled a shorter route, the 12 km from the Trinity Bridge to Enderby. The lower river has little fast-moving water, but it makes a leisurely fall paddle. This section is where tubers float downstream on a warm day.
There is a good launch spot at a small community park right on the river. Much of the river is easy Class 1 paddling.
Some of the shoreline is forested and some is farmland. The river has many shallow spots to watch out for.
a beehive burner on the shore
the elusive kingfisher
By late summer there are many beaches open for a lunch stop. We landed on a wide, sandy area with good views of the Enderby Cliffs.
During the salmon runs, there are many birds and various predators and scavengers on the river, but before the migration, the river is quiet except for a few ducks, geese, kingfishers, and great blue herons.
We left a vehicle in Enderby so we could enjoy an easy downriver paddle, an enjoyable day in our kayaks.
When the winds are calm, Kamloops Lake is one of the best paddling spots in the Interior of B.C. The rugged hills on both side of the lake provide a scenic backdrop for paddling along the shoreline. On this last outing on the lake in mid-September, I chose to Launch from Tobiano, at Bruker Marina. There is a $10 fee to park there and launch from the boat ramp/beach area. The marina is protected by a log breakwater providing flat water for a start to paddling. On this day, I paddled east along the south shore toward Cherry Bluffs.
The hills near Tobiano are mostly silt bluffs with wide gravelly beaches.
Large glacial erratics stand on the beaches left by past ice ages.
The gentle rounded hills of the Tobiano area give way to a more rocky shoreline as I paddled east.
The area near Cherry Creek has a gravelly alluvial fan from hundreds of thousands of years of spring floods.
Just past the outlet for Cherry Creek, the rocky hills of Cherry Bluffs loom overhead, a good point to turn around. After paddling I drove down the Cherry Creek Station Road, a narrow, steep gravel road that winds down to the CPR at Cherry Creek. There is access to be beach from the parking area there, but it means crossing the rail tracks. Cherry Creek had flooded this spring and had eroded away banks along its course. The lower end is already shaped to these floods and is rich in deciduous trees and shrubs, now turning colour with the approach of fall. This will be a wildlife corridor throughout the year.
Across the lake 2 km away on the north shore is the small lakeshore community of Frederick.
The paddle down from Tobiano to Cherry Bluffs and back is 10.6 km. It is best to pick a day without strong winds which tend to blow down the bottom of the river valley from east to west.
Harper Lake is found in the hills south of the South Thompson River, above the Neskonlith Indian Reserve #1. The Harper Lake Forest Service Road starts at east end of the Reserve 2 km from the turn-off into Chase. The gravel road climbs through the hills for 6 km, ending on a narrow road down to the lake. There is a BC Recreation Site on the north shore of the lake with 7 campsites, washrooms, and a boat launch.
The first part of the road was a good graded gravel road. At 3.2 km the Harper Lake Road angled off to the left. The road was narrow and at times rougher, best suited to high clearance. The last bit around the lake was rougher yet.
on the road up, looking north
on the flanks of Mount Scatchard
A paddle around the lakeshore is 3.3 km. Hills surround the lake, but there is also some wetlands and smaller ponds in the SE to NW trench.
At the west end of the lake, I spotted a mother cougar and 2 cubs. Because they were curious about my kayak, I was able to get some photos from the boat, trying to hold it still in the wind.
A fuller article about the big cats will follow. It was very exciting to spot and photograph the cougars, especially in this lovely, remote spot.
The Harper Lake road (an interactive map):
[sgpx gpx=”/wp-content/uploads/gpx/Harper Lake Road.gpx”]
By the end of summer, the McArthur Island boat launch has its gate closed and the lagoon begins to dry out. In the first week of September, there was just enough water to paddle out of the channel in a kayak. A week later it would have been a muddy portage. I exited to the river and aimed the boat upstream, paddling past the east end of Rabbit Island then turned with the current and came down the south side of the island.
The loop around Rabbit Island is about 4km of paddling with some extra effort required on the upstream sections.
the water was very shallow at the boat launch
a narrow channel to get out to the river
the south side of Rabbit Island
gulls on the island beaches
When the river floods in June the island is inundated with water channels, some of which can be paddled. There are a lot of ducks, geese, and riparian zone creatures on the island in June and July. By mid-summer the island is high and dry. We have spotted deer in summer and fall on the island.
Mara Mountain above the river
an old dock washed up at the high water mark
coming around the west end of the island
The island is private property above the high water mark. We saw tents on the island in early summer though. The wide beaches on the north side of the island are a popular stop for boaters, all legal since it is below the high water mark.
From the south end of the island it is a 10 km paddle to Kamloops Lake, all downriver. Another on-the-water route we do is to paddle from Pioneer Park past the confluence of the river, past Rabbit Island, landing at Cooney Bay, a total of 17 km, a 2.5 hour paddle A two vehicle system is needed for that option.
We do most of our paddling on the river from March through May, then from mid-September to the end of October, the best months for avoiding fast-moving and noise-polluting power boats. As the water gets colder, we switch to wearing a spray skirt, but the water temperature stays moderate through most of the fall.
We returned to paddle Campbell Lake in late summer, choosing a sunny weekday to launch a kayak and explore the shoreline. The launch spot is at the Campbell Lake Recreation Site on the south side of the lake. To drive there go through Barnhartvale, then turn onto the Robbins Range Road, and then the Scuitto Lake Forest Service Road. From the end of Scuitto Lake (11 km) to the Rec site is another 5 km.
There is a good boat launch next to the campground,
We try to go to do Campbell Lake in late summer since there are often migrating birds on the shallow lake. On this visit, there was a dozen pelicans on the lake. They tend to breed, hunt, and care for young as a colony. The wingspan of the American white pelican ranges from 1.4 to 1.75m.
Across the lake was a mating pair of sandhill cranes standing on the shoreline. On an earlier visit a dozen were on the same shoreline spot. They have a wingspan of about 1.3 m and stand about 120 cm tall, Every spring we watch the loose v-shaped flocks heading north to breeding grounds. We hear them before we can spot them.
Great blue herons were spotted on the shoreline too. They are always quick to take to the air if we get too close. They can be seen on many lakes in the Kamloops area.
Ducks and osprey were also patrolling the lake for food. The osprey did several dives for fish while I paddled the shoreline.
The loop around the lakeshore is 8 km, two hours of paddling. Campbell Lake is a gem in the hills, worth the 16 km of backroads to get there.