Category Archives: On the Rivers

Paddling the rivers of the Thompson River Valleys and the southern Interior of British Columbia, and a few rivers from our travels.

Cariboo River

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The Cariboo River starts under the western side of the crest of the 8000 foot glaciated Cariboo Mountains.   On the other side of the Cariboo Range,  McBride and the Fraser River lie 27 km to the east.   The northern end of Wells Gray Park is 27 km to the southeast.

There are many large icefields that drain down into the Upper Cariboo River Valley at 2010 m (6600 feet).   The river flows west and is joined by a number of creeks also draining  glaciers and snowfields.   After about 35+ km it enters Bowron Provincial Park.

cariboo riverMcLeary Lake is the junction point of the Isaac River (draining 38 km long Isaac Lake) and the Cariboo River.  From McLeary Lake, Bowron paddlers go 6.3 km downstream to Lanezi Lake.

cariboo-riverFrom McLeary Lake this view is to the east up the Cariboo River Valley into the Cariboo Range.

cariboo river valleyEven in early September, snow covered the peaks along the Cariboo River Valley as we paddled downriver.

img_0803The river empties into Lanezi Lake then into Sandy Lake (a 20 km section)   The evening light shone onto the upper slopes the Cariboo Mountains, as seen from the north shore of Sandy Lake.

img_0821From Sandy Lake, the river continues its westward flow into Unna Lake, then south out of Bowron Lake Provincial Park.   Paddlers completing the Bowron Circuit veer northwest into Babcock Creek for 400 m, then must portage up Babock Creek for 1.2 km to Babcock Lake.   From Unna Lake, The Cariboo River itself runs south for 9 km where the Matthew River joins it from the east, but it cannot be paddled safely.   Cariboo Falls is 1.5 km downstream,  an 82 foot drop.

cariboo-river-2From the confluence with the Matthew River, the Cariboo River continues its southward path.   There is a dangerous gorge 3 km downstream from the Matthew River confluence (upstream from Kimball Lake).  About 3 km farther downstream the river is the centerpiece of Cariboo River Provincial Park.  The river meanders through the park for 24 km before draining into Cariboo Lake.

cariboo-riverCariboo Lake and the channel to the smaller lake is about 13 km long, then the river continues its southward journey for about 9 km then turns west for another 16 km, joining the Quesnel River at Quesnel Forks.   There are several rapids along this section of the river so paddlers will want to pull out by the southern end of Cariboo Lake.

cariboo-riverThe Cariboo River is a tributary of the Quesnel River which flows west then northwest to Quesnel where it meets the Fraser River.   It is difficult to measure the length of the Cariboo River as it meanders through valleys, but it is about 140+ km from its source to Quesnel Forks.   We paddled about 30 km of its length before turning north toward Bowron Lake.   We would like to paddle south from Unna Lake to the end of Cariboo Lake (43 km) in this remote valley in the Cariboo Mountains some day.   Its on our list….

Valleyview River Corridor

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The paddle up the Valleyview River Corridor is a quiet one on a drizzly, grey October morning.

20161007_121046The section from the Valleyview Boat Launch to Dallas is 5 km each way, about right for a good paddle upriver and back.   The upstream paddle along the south shore side passes many riverfront homes on Thompson Drive then along a section of shrubby clay banks between the CPR line and the river on the way to more Dallas riverfront homes..

valleyview-river-corridorThe two “horns” of Harper Ridge stand above the silt cliffs on the north side of the river.

img_1608Cottonwoods, aspens, and other riverbank deciduous trees offer some color in fall.   Geese and ducks are still on the river in fall, taking to flight when a 18 foot green kayak approaches.

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The return paddle is a quick one with the river’s current moving the kayak to 8 km/hour downiver past the Wanda Sue paddlewheeler back to the Valleyview Boat Launch.

img_1613Paddlers can launch and land at Valleyview Boat Launch, Pioneer Park, Riverside Park, or McArthur Island to paddle the greenspace corridors right in the middle of the City.   We started paddling the rivers in February this year and will continue paddling the river circuits through November before putting the kayak away for the winter.

Up the River

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We paddle the lakes of the Interior all summer, then once the river becomes quieter, we return to paddle upstream and back.   Our favorite launch is at Pioneer Park.

img_0895rThe current on the South Thompson River is slower than the North Thompson or the combined Thompson River so we can make good progress upstream.   On this day the wind was blowing from the east so it was a slow process to advance to the Yellowhead Bridge and beyond.

img_1578rIt takes anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes to get to the bridge, depending on the season (the river runs quicker during freshet) and the winds.   There is a nice green space corridor past the Jack Gregson Trail.

Backroads Mapbook

Backroads Mapbook

 

Past the bridge the river runs faster as gravity “slingshots: the water around the curves.   With an S-shape between downtown and Valleyview, it is usually a good idea to paddle across the river to wherever the water is flowing more slowly.

img_1577rThe green corridor on the sides of our rivers is home to birds and small mammals.   We paddle upstream, then turn the boat downriver whenever the time seems right.   The more open skies of the west lay in front of us.

img_1579rThe boat launch at Pioneer Park is our return landing spot after a good paddle up the river.

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Rabbit Island Loop

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When fall arrives, we return to paddle the river.   The boat launch at McArthur Island becomes a mud flat in the late fall, but there is still enough water to launch out in September and October, although each year is different.   Once out in the Thompson River, the water moves quickly so progress is slow upstream.   We paddle up then around the east end of Rabbit Island.

rabbit-island-loop

In some years during freshet, much of Rabbit Island is under water, but by September sand banks rise above the river on the south side.

img_1589rAt the west end of the island, we can see down into Kamloops Lake, a good paddle one-way with a pick-up at Cooney Bay.   With the loop route, we turn upsteam and find the slowest water to engage.   Sometimes it is better to hug into Rabbit Island (especially in low water) and sometimes it is better to go up the middle of the channel.   The water is always faster next to McArthur Island, though.

img_1591rAs we work our way upstream, reflections in silver light remind us that the extra effort to paddle upstream is all worth it.

pahorThis is a route we do every year so we will return to repeat the paddle in 2017.   Watch for us on the river.

Downriver: Westsyde to McArthur Island

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The paddle from Westsyde to McArthur Island is a leisurely 14 km downriver route.  We launched from the end of Harrington Road near the Dunes and moved out into the river allowing the current to pull us downstream.

Downriver 4 mapIn June the river is bank to bank with no sand bars.   We could average 7km per hour without too much effort, passing Westsyde.

IMG_1349rWe went under the CN Bridge, then the Halston Bridge on our “Rivers Trail.”

IMG_1350rEven though the river was wide and peaceful, there were no other boats on the river as we passed Mt. Paul and North Kamloops.

IMG_1351rAt the Confluence we followed the river past Overlander Beach, under the bridge, past the old pylons and toward McArthur Island.

IMG_1353rWe tucked into a small beach at the boat launch ramp at McArthur Island out of the way of power boats lined up to launch at noon on a Sunday.   This is an enjoyable paddle and an easy one with the power of the river moving us along.  Kamloops is lucky to have two rivers for recreational paddling right at our doorstep.

Downriver: Chase to Pritchard

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In 2016 we paddled from Chase to Kamloops in 3 stages, each downriver leg 21 km. We launched our boats from the beach in Chase in the morning. The lakefront was quiet and Little Shuswap Lake was calm. Our boats were pulled quickly down the river at the outlet. Pritchard was 3 hours away.

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Every section of the river is different. The main flow of the river follows the easiest course downstream. The fastest sections follow the deeper water as centrifugal force swings the river around the outside of each curve. The other side of the river on each curve runs slower and sometimes back eddies around points. The zone between the faster water and the slower water is turbulent and whirlpools sometimes form. Ripples rise over shallow water, usually gravel bars in the South Thompson. During freshet the river spreads out from bank to bank, and logs get stranded along the shoreline. Some of these are hazards to anyone in a boat so paddlers usually steer clear of them. A sweeper is a log sticking out into the river in a faster current, an unsafe situation for kayaks and canoes. We paddle out from the shoreline, but we try to leave the middle of the river for powerboats following the line of navigation buoys upstream.  Most boaters are considerate of other boats on the river, but we still try to paddle downstream early before most of the motorized watercraft are out.

The 64 km of the South Thompson River from Chase to Kamloops is a long green corridor frequented by birds and small mammals. We often see geese, ducks, eagles, osprey, herons, and a variety of birds. On this last paddle downstream, we were entertained by the chittering kingfishers as they flew from branch to branch leading our boats along the shoreline.

IMG_1303rWe planned our paddle trip to include a stop on Banana Island.   It was traditionally used by the First Nations people of the Neskonlith Band as a base for fishing.   Birds nest on the island and in 2006 it was turned into a Provincial Park.   In high water, the beaches are very small, but we managed to land on the grassy shores on the north side.   The south side has a better beach right by the sign.

banana island 3When the river’s volume decreases, there are numerous sand bars and gravel bars that can be used as a landing spots, but at freshet when the river is full, Banana Island is one of the only places for paddlers to stop on a downstream journey.

IMG_1308r IMG_1312r

 

From Banana Island, the final section of the downriver paddle is 6km to the Pritchard Bridge.  The wooden bridge is one lane, except for a passing zone in the middle.  It is safest to cross through the middle of the bridge in a boat since there are booms and trapped logs near the other uprights.   The landing area is on the northwest side of the bridge, a local hand-launch spot.  We will return to paddle the South Thompson River in next year.

IMG_1313rMore Information:

Downriver: Pritchard to Lafarge

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The South Thompson River is a great paddling destination, breaking the distance from Chase to Kamloops into three 21 km sections.   We launched our kayaks from the Pritchard Bridge (NW side) on a sunny morning and paddled downstream for 3 hours.

Downriver Pritchard to LafargeDuring freshet, the river swells to cover all the gravel bars and so parts of the journey west feels like paddling through a big calm lake, but the current continues to move the boats along at about 7.5 km/hour.

IMG_1284rThe route passes a series of silt cliffs, eroded remnants of a glacial lake in the valley.

IMG_1290rIt is best to paddle downriver in the morning before afternoon winds pick up.   A headwind makes the paddle journey longer and more difficult.  Also, power boats start to use the river in the late morning so we can avoid the noise and the river-wide wakes by getting an earlier start.

IMG_1291rWe pass by Monte Creek Winery, Rivershore Golf Course, the South Thompson Inn, and a number of farms and homes along the route.

IMG_1294rThere is a small beach/boat launch on the NE side of the Lafarge Bridge.   We left vehicles there to shuttle our drivers back to the launch spot.  It takes a bit of coordination to do downriver paddles, but both of our rivers are worth the effort.   The South Thompson River is a relatively easy paddling route, especially in the spring with a wide river that moves us quickly downstream.

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Tranquille Bay Floodlands

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Each year the rivers rise in May and they usually peak in June.   When both rivers rise enough, the area near the east end of Kamloops Lake floods upstream for a few kilometers.   We can launch our kayaks and paddle from Tranquille Bay to explore the seasonal channels.

In 2016, freshet was early and by the first of June access was limited to launch spots to the floodlands.   We will return again each spring.

Downriver: Lafarge to Pioneer Park

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Every year we paddle downriver to Kamloops.   The South Thompson River from Chase to Kamloops can be done in 3 legs – Chase to Pritchard, Pritchard to Lafarge, and Lafarge to Pioneer Park.   We organized a pickup vehicle at the end so we enjoy the river as it runs quickly in freshet.   We paddled downriver from Lafarge to Pioneer Park at the end of May with the river swollen with meltwaters from the Monashee Range to the east (article on the sources of the river).   Our route follows the corridor between silt cliffs of an ancient glacial lake

There is a good hand launch spot on the northeast side of the Lafarge Bridge.   We launched out into the river in our seaworthy ocean-style kayaks for a 3 hour downriver paddle.

The gravel bars are covered along this 21 km route in freshet.  We had a tail wind and a good downstream current making for easy paddling.

The weather was good, but thunderheads were starting to form to our west.   When paddling in the area, it is almost always better to paddle in the morning before afternoon winds start.

We were able to maintain about 8 km an hour downstream on this day with favorable winds and good conditions.   We will be paddling the other 2 legs this spring and then we will paddle downstream on the North Thompson River.   We paddled all the way from Clearwater to Kamloops last year (link).   There are launch spots and landings for 9 different routes of downriver paddling with Kamloops as the epicenter.   Not many cities have these kinds of opportunities so we take advantage of the opportunities by doing most of the legs each year.

 

Into the Floodlands

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We paddle into the floodlands in freshet each year.   The meltwaters from the North and South Thompson Rivers expand to fill the riverbanks and raise the rivers considerably in May and June.   We enjoy launching from a small parking area near Tranquille once the river rises enough to clear the grazing fences.   The area is part of the BC Parks Tranquille Wildlife Management Area.

Willow “islands” stand above the floodwaters in Tranquille Bay.

The Thompson River, the flooded areas, and Kamloops Lake merge into one body of water in freshet.

On a windless day the hills reflect in the river offering a wide optical illusion.

We paddled across the river and up channels on the south side, quiet “bayous” where muskrats, river otters, herons, and painted turtles can be spotted.   On the way back across the river, the hills surrounding the river and lake reflect into the floodwaters.

From the middle of the 1.1 km crossing of the river is a wide perspective on the hills surrounding the floodlands.  The return route into Tranquille Bay aims for the ragged slopes of Mara Mountain.

Of all the paddles in our area, this one is the finest, available each year only during freshet.

 

Lafarge East on the River

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There are a handful of good launch spots for kayaking on the South Thompson River and the beach at the Lafarge Bridge is one of the best ones.   A dirt road goes down to a gravel beach.   We can park on the side road above after unloading the boat.

We launched and paddled upstream east to Rivershore Golf Club.   There is a lot of shallow water and a series of gravel bars on the north side.

Although the river appears to be wide in this section, the extensive shallows on the north side means that the bulk of the water flows down a narrow channel on the south side.   The current is fast.  IMG_6492rAn hour up the river and half an hour down the river is enough for a day’s paddle early in the season.  We will be back later in the spring to paddle downstream from Pritchard to Lafarge (20 km).

Early River Kayaking

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The first day of paddling on the river was in February and the last day will be in November this year.   When we paddle early in the season, the river is cold so there are some things we can do to make the experience more reasonable.

  1. Check the weather forecast in the last 24 hours.   Wind is the critical issue.   Pick wind-free days which are few, but on many days the winds don’t arise until about 11:30 in the morning, a result of warming of the hills in the valley.
  2. Paddle parts of the river that have a good hand launch with close parking.   The best two local choices are Pioneer Park and Valleyview Boat Launch.  McArthur Island is only suitable for higher water conditions.   Riverside Park and Harrington Road are okay, but we have to haul the boat from the parking areas down to the beach and back.   The South Thompson is an easier river to paddle upstream than the North Thompson.

3.   The sit-on-top style of kayak or open hull kayaks (like the Costco ones) are not as warm as the traditional style kayaks.   Either way, we want to wear a good sprayskirt in the early season.

4. Warm hands make a big difference.   We keep our hands dry and wear paddling gloves.   There are over-gloves (pogies) available, but they are needed on the ocean where spray is a factor, not on the river in town.

5. Dry feet help too.   Usually at least one foot has to be in the water to launch the boat.   We wear neoprene boots for this.   We have seen people that use rubber boots to launch, then change once on the water.   Some paddlers leave their boat partly in the water, get into the boat, and use hip thrusts to move the boat off the beach into the water (this works).

6. Since the water is cold, we definitely don’t want to capsize so we only use very stable boats at this time of the year.   Although we can perform self-rescue, we stay closer to the shoreline and if we did capsize, we would pull our boats to the shoreline right away.   In general, we avoid turbulent water early in the season.

7.  Wear a good paddling jacket.   There are paddling-specific jackets with latex rubber gaskets for the neck and arm sleeves.   These keep the paddler dry, but the jackets are expensive so some type of layering can also be used.   We don’t use wetsuits or dry suits on the river, but if we were crossing a big lake, we would.

8.    Some kayaks have good seats that don’t get cold in cold water, but if the seat is just plastic, an inflatable pad (Thermarest makes these) works well.

If we can stay warm and dry, paddling in the early season is a nice experience and best of all, there will be no one else out there but the ducks and geese.

Up the North Thompson

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When we paddle early in the season. we paddle upriver then return back down to our launch spot.   The South Thompson is the easier river to paddle upstream, but we also go up the North Thompson River too.   We launch from Pioneer Park and head down to the confluence, then we use the rudder to take a sharp turn at Indian Point, turning north to paddle the stronger current of the North Thompson.   Mt. Paul dominates the views as we make our way along the shores of Kamloops Indian Reserve.

The distance to Halston Bridge from the confluence is 3.65km, but upstream progress is slow on this river.   The Batchelor Hills frame the Halston Bridge and the route to Westsyde.

We paddle past Paul Creek, then the Halston Bridge piers and round the pylons of the CN Train Bridge too before heading back downstream.   (Video link)

Yellow willows and red osier dogwood overlook the sand banks of the river,   Dome Hills and Mt. Paul lie to the northeast.

The route from Pioneer Park passes under four bridges twice (Red Bridge, Black Bridge, Halston Bridge, and the CN Bridge) and is about 10.5 km.   Two thirds of the time is spent paddling upstream, a good core and upper body workout for the early season.

 

 

On the River in February

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With milder winters, I have been able to get the kayak onto the river in February for the last two years.   In 2015 the last paddle outing was in the middle of November (although I paddled in New Zealand after that).   There is no one around this early in the season and if there is no wind, paddling is good.   The water is not too cold, but I wear neoprene boots and a good paddling jacket, but I am also protected by a good spray skirt.  I launched from Pioneer Park on a fine day at the end of February.

With no wind, the river was calm.  Paddling upstream is hard work, but the South Thompson is the best choice for an upriver-and-back workout.

With blue skies, the hills were reflected in the water.

I went upstream for an hour then turned back for an easy return paddle downstream.  By getting out early and paddling long slow distance, we can build for the endurance we will need in the main part of the paddling season.   We have planned to do the Bowron Circuit, Clayoquot Sound, the Wallace Island area, the Columbia River Reservoirs, and Murtle Lake, among others.   This was Day 1 of an estimated 70+ days of paddling for 2016….

The North Thompson River

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The North Thompson River’s source is Thompson Glacier on the southern slopes of Trigon Mountain on the edge of the Premier’s Range and for 355 km it runs downstream to Kamloops where it merges with the South Thompson River to become the Thompson River.    Along the way are a number of landmarks, the subject of this article.

The Source

  • Peaks surround the head of the North Thompson River Valley.   On the north side is a glacial cirque ringed by Trigon (2921m), Chilkst (2811m), and Chamberlin Peaks (2836m).   Thompson Glacier (8 sq. km) is the main source of the river, sitting on the southern flanks of Trigon Mountain.

The Upper Valley

  • Km 6.0 – Tributaries join the river throughout the journey.   At this point Ella and Frye Creeks run north from the northern Wells Gray Peaks to become part of the river.   Just ahead, Blackstone Creek joins, draining Blackstone Glacier on Chamberlin Peak.   A remote backroad ends here, 230m up on the north slope.   One kilometer downstream the first cutblock can be seen, evidence of a history of logging on both sides of the river.
  • km 18 – Many creeks run off two mountain ranges to join the river – Stormking, Adolph, Pleasant, Manteau and dozens more.   The valley floor is not as steep here and the river meanders.

The Lower Valley

 

  • Many creeks run off the Cariboo Ranges to the south and north expanding the volume of the river.   Mt. Sir Alan McNabb is the last peak of this range before the river turns at the Monashee Range.

The Turn Between Two Mountain Ranges

  • At about 57km, the river enters another valley.   It heads east, running into the slopes of the Monashee Range, where it is turned southward.
  • Albreda Mountain (2613m), Dominion Mountain (3048m), and Mount Lempriere (3208) have large glaciers and snowfields and the eastern slopes drain down into the river.
  • From the north a major tributary is the Albreda River
  • At the turn of the river near the confluence, Highway 5 North crosses the river.   There is no community there (Gosnell is a railway “stop”).   It was originally called Thompson Crossing but was named after Provincial Archivist R.E. Gosnell.   There was a Japanese Internment Camp there during WWII.

South to Blue River

  • Along this section of the river, creeks and rivers run off the Cariboo Range to the west – Chappell Creek, Milledge Creek, Thunder River, and numerous smaller creeks and streams
  • From the east, steep valleys with fast flowing streams flow down from the crest of the  Monashee Range – Moonbeam Creek, Pyramid Creek, Bone Creek, and Hellroar Creek and others
  • High-clearance Forest Service Roads penetrate a short ways east and west into the mountains, but for the most part, the areas above the highway and railroad have few visitors.   Helicopter tours out of Blue River, backcountry enthusiasts on Mt. Cook and a few remote trails on Bone Creek Ridge and Mt. St. Anne, and snowmobilers on Mt. Chappell may visit these wilderness areas when conditions are right.
  • At about 100km, the river meanders again through Blue River Black Spruce Provincial Park.
  • At about 105 km, the Mud River joins the North Thompson River.   Mud Lake is just 600 m upstream.   Above Mud Lake is Mud Lake Delta Provincial Park.
  • The river passes the town of Blue River in the next few kilometers.   Blue River flows in from the mountains near Murtle Lake.   Blue River Pine Provincial Park is a short way upstream.

Blue River to Avola

  • Tributaries along this 40 km section coming in from the Cariboo Mountains are smaller creeks, draining a smaller area of lower mountains.  Much of the area to the east drains south into Raft River.
  • From the east are a number of steeper valleys with short creeks running down the east slopes of the Scrip Range.   Finn Creek is the largest tributary in this area and Finn Creek Provincial Park is a conservation area.
  • Messiter Summit is a high point along the highway, climbing a shoulder of the mountain to climb above Little Hells Gate (Porte d’ Enfer Canyon).   The River flows through a 9m wide canyon there, best seen from a viewing platform off a side road.
  • The River flows past the community of Avola.   Employment in the area comes mainly from the forestry industry.   The Kinder Morgan Pipeline follows the river valley on the west side above Highway 5.

Avola to Vavenby

  • The hills are lower and more rounded on both sides of the river for the next 48km to Vavenby.
  • Tributaries in this section are mostly smaller creeks with the exception of the Mad River and Reg Christie Creek.
  • The CNR follows the east side of the river most of the way from Gosnell to Kamloops, but it crosses the river near Messiter and crosses back south of Avola.
  • Some longer Forest Service Roads lead off toward Adams Lake, up the Mad River Valley, and over to the Raft River with the more rounded, lower hills of the Shuswap Highlands in this area.
  • Logged cutblocks are visible from all along this section of highway next to the river.
  • The river turns west, then south, then west before passing Vavenby at about 196km from the source.
  • Vavenby is a community of about 700 people situated on the shores above the river.

Vavenby to Clearwater

 

  • The valley is wider along this section and farmland can be seen on both sides of the river.
  • A bridge crosses the river at Vavenby and a Forest Service Road goes over the Shuswap Highlands and down to the Adams River.
  • The rural community of Birch Island is 15 km downstream (but northwest) of Vavenby.  There is a uranium deposit just east of Birch Island and there was some controversy about a proposed mine on Foghorn Mountain nearby.    Radon testing is routinely done in the area downstream because of leaching down the creek to the river.
  • At about 220 km, the Raft River flows into the North Thompson River, draining a large area east of Wells Gray Park
  • The North Thompson flows past Clearwater near km 225.   A bridge crosses the river and we can drive over the hills past Dunn Lake to Chu Chua and beyond to Barriere.
  • At 230km the Clearwater River joins the North Thompson.   This is the major tributary on its journey to Kamloops.   The Clearwater River runs 200 km north to south, draining Azure Lake, Clearwater Lake, Hobson Lake, and Mahood Lake within 10 000 square km of terrain, almost all within Wells Gray Park.

South to Kamloops

  • We paddled our kayaks from Clearwater to Kamloops this year and spent 3 days on the river noting all the features along the way.
  • North Thompson River Provincial Park lies just south of the confluence of the two rivers.
  • The river braids into multiple channels between Clearwater and Little Fort.
  • Just north of Little Fort is a corner of Dunn Peak Provincial Park which extends down to the river near the mouth of Dunn Creek/Joseph Creek.
  • At 257 km, there is a reaction ferry at Little Fort.   There was once a small fort on the east side of the river for the Hudson Bay company Brigade trail between the Cariboo and Fort Kamloops.   Little Fort today sits at the junction of Highway 5 and Highway 24.
  • At 265 km the river flows through Chu Chua Cottonwoods Provincial Park, a series of pristine islands in the middle of the river (we canmped on them this summer).
  • Farmlands near Darfield surround the river all the way to Barriere.   At km 285, the river flows under a bridge over Highway 5 at the north end of Barriere, a town of 1700 people at the confluence of the Barriere River and the North Thompson.   Side roads lead east to the Barriere Lakes area or over to Adams Lake.
  • Highway 5 and the CNR both run down the east side of the river all the way to Kamloops from Barriere.
  • The small community of Louis Creek lies south of Barriere.   Louis Creek drains the highlands near Tod Mountain.
  • About 8km south of Barriere, the river runs through Fishtrap Canyon.
  • At 307 km the McLure Reaction Ferry connects Highway 5 to Westsyde Road.
  • The river runs for about 20 km down to the outskirts of Kamloops at Heffley Creek.
  • Heffley Rapids are met at km 327.  These can be formidable in spring and early summer, but are more manageable later in the summer.   It can only be traveled by river boats/jetboats or kayaks/canoes preventing upstream travel from Kamloops.   The rapids span about 4km on the river.
  • Below the rapids, the river runs wider and slower past Heffley, then Rayleigh on one side and Westsyde on the other.
  • North Thompson Jensen Island Oxbows Provincial Park is a small reserve, accessible by boat only.   Many years ago we ran and hiked in this area but private property now blocks access by land.
  • Old pylons stand in the river where there was once an old log booming operation where Rayleigh now lies.
  • As the river passes the Kamloops Indian Reserve, it flows under the Halston Bridge at about km 350, then meets the South Thompson River in Kamloops at km 354.
  • The muddier waters of the North Thompson mix with the clearer waters of the South Thompson to become the Thompson River as it flows west to Kamloops Lake, then southwest down to Lytton to join the Fraser River.
  • We spent a number of days paddling the river this year and will return to enjoy the rhythms of the river for more days in the next year.

Downriver – Clearwater to Kamloops

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We launched our kayaks at North Thompson Provincial Park and paddled downriver to Kamloops over 3 days.  We spent our first night on an island in the middle of the river.

We launched in the morning on the second day and stopped for a break on one of the many sandbars along the route.

This second section of the journey has many sections of calm water for a longer day of paddling.   The hills on either side rise above the farmland benches of Darfield and Chu Chua.

Cottonwoods line the river and sandbars are exposed in August.   When we paddled this route in June one year, the water ran fast and there were many side channels, but few gravel bars or sandbars above the water.

Downriver 3 Days 027rThe river moves quickly past Barriere and through Fishtrap Canyon.   The hills are barren because of the 2003 McLure Fire.

There are some bumpy sections of water through Fishtrap Canyon as we round Mount Goudreau and Skull Hill, offering some interesting and scenic paddling.  At the bottom of Fishtrap Canyon there are some rapids and several islands.   In high water, there are three islands, but by August they are a single island.   There are some small bays and sandy beaches on the west side with campsites suitable for a few tents.

This was our second night of camping, after a 39 km paddle.

The third day was a slower paddle past McLure and Vinsulla towards a canyon north of Heffley Lake.

Although the river seems to be moving slowly, we averaged 8.5 km/hour over the 36 km distance to Kamloops.

The Heffley Rapids are always an exciting paddle, but they are less formidable in August.   We stopped at the mouth of Jamieson Creek to scout the rapids and pick a route.   We opted for a route to the right and passed through without incident, but we also enjoyed the bumpy ride over a series of smaller rapids over a kilometer distance.   Below the rapids, we passed Heffley creek and Rayleigh with grasslands above the communities.

On the North Thompson River 055rOld log boom poles run down the side of the river in Rayleigh.

On the North Thompson River 060brWe landed in Westysde at Harrington Road, not the best place to haul the boats and gear, but Kamloops lacks good landing/launching spots on the North Thompson within the City’s limits.

The entire journey was about 112km over 3 days.   There are many good places to camp on islands in the river so the trip could be done in 2-4 days.   We had good weather and little wind so the days were long, but reasonable.   Camping on the river is a wonderful experience, one that we will paddle downriver Clearwater to Kamloops again in upcoming years.