Painted Bluffs Provincial Park is a very special place, one that we try to visit every year. Our favorite route is to kayak across the lake from Savona. Other routes can be taken too (see this post link). Every time we visit, the light is different and we hike to different perspectives (post link).
A follow-up article will detail the route and opportunities. For now, a preview is offered:
For those who love to kayak, Jedediah Island is a destination for exploration. Most kayakers launch from the Sunshine Coast. Go north of Sechelt to Half Moon Bay for a good access to a short crossing to the Thormandby Islands. The crossing of Malaspina Strait from North Thormandby is 8km of open water and should only be attempted in calm conditions. We returned by this route in rougher conditions and the kayaks plunged out of sight in the troughs between waves. If conditions aren't good, there is lots of paddling around the two Thormandby Islands and into Pirates Cove Provincial Park.
If the crossing can be done to the south end of Texada Island, another crossing is still required. We found Sabine Channel to be good paddling, but it adds another 5km of open water. The route from North Thormandby to Jedediah is about 3 hours of continuous paddling. there are a number of potential landing spots on the island with Home Bay as the first choice for many kayakers. A narrow channel leads into a protected bay with a beach and camping area. At low tide, all of the landings will be on mud flats, awkward for unloading boats. We observed a group that waited several hours for the bay to fill up with water before landing. The campsite has a kiosk, outhouse, sandy beach and a grassy bench for camping. 
All of the camping areas of the island are connected by trails. There are 3.5km of official trails and a few routes to viewpoints too. In Home Bay, the former home of a series of owners who eventually sold the island to the province of B.C. for $4 million sits up on a bluff. Behind the home perched on the hill is an orchard and meadows. A herd of feral goats grazed this area every day. Raccoons came down to the bay at low tide each morning.
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Each day yachts, cruisers, and motorboats would take overnight anchorage in one of 7 bays or inlets around the island. Jedediah is a long way from the nearest vacation home so everyone seems to understand the need for a quiet stay at the island. The whole island (243 hectares) is a provincial park, and is a choice destination to visit, hike, and explore. But Jedediah is also surrounded by 30 islands for exploration by water, to be featured in another article to follow.
The Copper Island route has been featured in a past post (link). This time, we left Shuswap Lake Park in flood. All of the beaches were under water. Debris flanked the possible entry points. Mosquitoes were breeding in the standing water in low points. We launched nonetheless and to our delight, the ban on speed boats made the 2km crossing more peaceful. We paddled around the north side of the island to the landing spot on the east side. There is usually a small cove with a pebbly beach landing, but high water covered any possibility of a bow landing. We pulled out kayaks alongside some grassy banks and secured the boats. The hike is a 3km loop, climbing to the top of the steep-sided island. Viewpoints are numerous on the south and west sides of the island.
Flowering spire
a, ocean spray, Oregon grape, thimble berry, huckleberry, and mock orange decorate the hillsides. Bald eagles and osprey perched on branches overlooking the cliffs. By the time we paddled back to Scotch Creek, more late-riser boaters were up, but we paddled in a chevron formation back to the camping area. Neither the paddle nor the hike is a long route, but the combined route makes a very pleasant half-day trip in fine weather. This was our third trip, and we will return for many more.
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The two arms of Murtle Lake wind around Central Mountain (see the map in the previous post). From a number of viewpoints, hikers can look down the west arm or the north arm of the lake. To the east is the Wavy Range, with triangular peaks and long rocky ridges. To the north is an endless line of snow and ice covered peaks of the Cariboo Ranges. To the northeast is the source of the North Thompson River, the Premiers Range. Looking past the end of the west arm, the Murtle River winds down the Murtle Plateau. The cone -shaped Kostal Volcano stands above Kostal Lake. Lakes, rivers and ponds dot the landscape. Below the sandbars of Leo Island, where we camped, could be seen under the blue-green lake water (telephoto shot).
The start of the hike is on the north side of the west arm, not far from Leo Island. There is no easy landing at the trailhead. It is a bit of a rocky shoreline, but once ashore, there is room to drag the boat up onto the bank. A sign marks the trailhead and the trail starts a winding route up into the forest. The route is steep and a bit overgrown. The route is 7.5 km each way with a 1037m elevation gain. The trail climbs out of the forest into sub-alpine meadows with lots of wildflowers. The mountain is a sprawling open meadow with rocky outcrops and a few ponds. Travel across the top is quick and hikers will want to find new viewpoints by exploring the open ridges.
If this mountain had easier access, it would see many hikers. It is a recommended hike for those who can travel, portage, paddle, camp, and take a full day to explore the high country.
Once you have launched your canoe or kayak, you will pass through a lagoon for 1.5 km. At this point, you will emerge into Murtle Lake. There are two campsites (Murtle Lagoon) here if paddlers get a late start. The large east bay makes good paddling if the winds are calm, but if not, you may have to stay inside the lee of the bay, making a longer paddle, but a route closer to shore will be less difficult if there is weather to battle. On our last trip, we were able to angle straight for the point on a calm, sunny day.
At the point is a sandy spit and just inside the spit is the next campground. A sandy beach and a good location makes this campground (Sandy Point) a popular spot. There are only 3 designated sites here, but we saw about 8 tents pitched. All campsites have a food cache and pit toilets.
Continuing on, paddlers pass a marshy, forested shoreline. At the indent of the bay, another larger campground (Arthur) sits. Turning around the point, paddlers will enjoy Fairy slipper Island. There is no camping here, but it makes a nice spot for a rest or a swim. The West Arm narrows here between Central Mountain and the south shoreline. The hills beyond are rounded, leading on to the Murtle Plateau.
There are 7 campgrounds in the arm. some may already be full. We stopped at each one just to see the site. We talked to some of the campers. Most were close to full except the ones at the far end, but all seemed very nice.
Birch Beach Campground (the first one on the north shore) had 3 sites, but we saw 6 tents. Beyond it, Cottonwood Campground had 2 sites and was full. We paddled onto Leo Island and found that the campsite up on the hill was vacant. Everyone who was already camped on the island wanted to be on the beach, so we set up our tents and spent 3 nights here as our base camp.
We paddled down the west arm and checked out the campground at Smoker Island (2 sites). Campers told us that the fishing was best near the islands or in Diamond Lagoon. Beyond the islands is a campground at File Creek (4 sites). There is a 1.5km portage there up File Creek to where boats can be launched upstream. the route is a little marshy but boardwalks help. File Creek is fairly narrow and the area can be buggy, but the terrain opens up further upstream under the slopes of It is possible to hike from the top of navigation on File Creek up to McDougall Lake or beyond to Kostal Lake. This area is very remote and only for the most experienced backcountry explorers. Another 4km trail goes up to Anderson Lake, which will be on our itinerary for our next trip. There is also a trail on the North Shore that goes up Central Mountain which will be a separate story to follow.
The Kostal Campground at the end of the arm was empty, but it had a 4 nice sites and a nice beach. As you approach Diamond Lagoon, you may be alarmed by the current as it sweeps out of Murtle Lake. It is an easy ride down into the lagoon. Stay on the south shore and be sure to stop before the lagoon empties into a series of rapids. A signed landing spot is the start of the 5km McDougall Falls Trail. The secret to getting back up from the lagoon is to tuck in behind the island then paddle hard up the narrow section. Fishing is excellent at this outlet.
The west end of Murtle Lake from high on Central Mountain:
If you paddle the whole west arm and do the hikes, there are a few days of camping here.
We will continue to return to Galiano Island for a late winter retreat to hike and explore, and in summer to camp and paddle. Galiano is the first stop on the Southern Gulf Islands Ferry from Tsawwassen. Once the ferry is launched, you can be offloading at Sturdies Bay in an hour. We prefer to head inland down the long narrow island to Montague Harbor. We find this area to be central for our explorations, hikes and paddles. 
Montague Provincial Park
Montague Provincial Park Campground is usually rated in the top 3 in the province. The camping is in a beautiful oceanside setting with several beaches, hiking trails, and easy access to Trincomali Channel. If you want to camp here, you will need to book this very early to get a site. One part of the campground, though, is for cyclists and paddlers only and it never seems to fill up. In later winter, the 3 km of hiking has a number of options include a beach walk, a reef to explore at low tide, 6 middens, a salt water marsh, and a boat harbour. There are many fine views, so bring your camera.
Take the time to explore the shoreline around Gray Point.
In summer, it is easy to get the kayak right to the water and launch from the beach. We found that a morning paddle worked best because the winds come up by noon each day. From Montague beaches and launches, you can paddle out to numerous islands. Most are privately owned, but we found some oyster-covered coves to land on the islets (not at high tide). We enjoyed paddling around the Ballingel Islets which is an Ecological Reserve for cormorants. It is possible to paddle all the way to Wallace Island, but it would be easier to launch at Retreat Cove, north on the island road.
The coastline has many sculpted features. Taking a photo while kayaking is never easy, but in calm waters it can be done.
Montague is wonderful place to visit, but there a number of other areas that are rewarding – Bodega Ridge, Mount Galiano, Bluffs Park, Dionisio Point, Bellhouse Park, and the channels that surround the island.
Rabbit Island sits out in the middle of the Thompson River not too far away from McArthur Island. Deer overwinter on the island, boaters land here in the summer, and an occasional camper sets up a tent on the island. The island shrinks from the middle of May to the middle of June. In late fall to early spring, it is possible to wade through the river channel from McArthur Island. Much of the middle of the island is open grass and a few trees, but the northeast corner is more dense and the northwest corner is overgrown.
One way to check out Rabbit Island is to launch your boat at McArthur Island and paddle up river to the tip. The riverbed is higher on the northside and the river tumbles down at the east end to the deeper south side. If you paddle into the cascade, you will be pulled down and around the south side of the island. The south shoreline of the island is steeper and this makes a more challenging landing. Coming around the west end and then up the north side of the island, you will parallel broad sandy beaches.
To explore the island, just beach anywhere on the north side. Go inland and follow game trails and tracks that wind among the trees and around the low spots. In the later spring through summer, these are filled with water and in late June, are bug-brewing ponds.
You can paddle about 3.6 km around the island and then hike about 2.5 km on the island for a a day on the Thompson River.
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Although I have only been to Stevens Lakes once, I hope to get back there again. It can be done in one long day, but it also takes some preparation. I was lucky enough to have hired a fishing guide who took us in for the day. I remember the long back road route, then the long hike in. We went in and out in a single long day, but if I return, I’d prefer to backpack in and spend at least one night at the lakes. I would do this after the bug season because both the route in and the lakes area is low-lying and wet. I will bring fishing gear because everyone will catch his/her limit at this remote spot. Preparation is required to figure out the best route in. We used the backroad system going up the Raft River Forest Road (Rd. 9), then the Raft-Ritchie Forest Road and continued on for a total of 51 km before parking at a high and remote spot. Detailed descriptions for this route are found in Roland Neave’s Exploring Wells Gray Park.
Today, Wells Gray Provincial Park advertises a route that goes up the Flank of Trophy Mountain, then winds around the back and over to the West Raft Creek Road past Skeeter Lake. My assumption is that since this route is within the park, it is signed. That exploration is yet to come. Google Earth shows this route and hopefully it is quicker and better marked than the traditional route.
When we went to Stevens Lakes we enjoyed the gentle trail (downhill) into the lake. Canoes are left at the campground at South Stevens Lakes for use so we paddled out and started fishing. We had each caught our limit in 30 minutes and fish were jumping all over the lake. This would be a quiet and pleasant camping spot for one or two nights.
Stevens Lakes sits in Indian Valley, a wet area between Battle Mountain and Murtle Lake. All three of these areas are special in their own right and deserve to be explored more than once.
