During freshet, the river runs faster so any downriver route is a quicker paddle. The route downriver from Pioneer Park to Tranquille Bay is 11.65 km and takes about 2 hours.
From the flooded boat launch at Pioneer Park, the kayak enters the current and I paddled under the Red Bridge then the CN Bridge. There was not much clearance under the train bridge and a week later it was impassable to regular boats. The confluence was a bit turbulent and the North Thompson River was wide and fast-moving. Beyond Overlander Bridge the river passes the old bridge pylons. I followed the north shore toward McArthur Island.
Pioneer Park boat launch
the CN Bridge
looking north up the North Thompson
old bridge pylons
I knew that Rabbit Island would be flooded and that at this time, there are navigable channels through the center of the island. From Rabbit Island the trip down the north shore is a quick one, with a few detours through flood channels near the Rivers Trail.
in the Rabbit Island channels
Mara Mountain above Tranquille Bay
Along the way were ducks, geese, gulls, crows, sparrows and other shoreline birds. An eagle was nesting in an aerie on the rivershore.
In Tranquille Bay we can spot western painted turtles sunning on logs if we approach quietly, drifting slowly to get closer.
The landing at Tranquille Bay is an easy one but a pickup system is needed or two paddlers with two shuttled vehicles. Later in the season, Cooney Bay is an alternative end point.
When the North Thompson and the South Thompson Rivers rise, the Thompson River expands and the estuary at the head of Kamloops Lake widens into a floodlands. We can launch a canoe or kayak from the BC Parks Lac du Bois Wildlife Management Area parking area. .This launch spot is suitable for canoes and kayaks only during freshet.
We paddle out through Tranquille Bay past the floodland shrub “islands” to the river, then across the river to the far side.
When there is no wind, there are many reflections in the calm bayous.
Willows are tolerant of the salt-rich alkaline waters. They are the dominant plant in the floodlands.
Clusters of willows and salt-tolerant shrubs make watery islands.
From the river, Mount Mara rises above and reflects in the water.
Kamloops Lake and the estuary become one, a larger lake during freshet.
Along the flood channels and in the bayous, there are carp, ducks, western painted turtles, cormorants, herons, eagles, osprey, geese, blackbirds, crows, and wide variety of birds and insects.
We paddle quietly, careful not to startle the wildlife, listening for the calls of birds, always aware that we need to be as unobtrusive as we can in the seasonal Tranquille floodlands.
The floodlands offer the finest paddling in our area for May and June each year. Watch for our kayaks there.
Once the ice clears off our area lakes we head out to do a circuit of local lakes. The first three to paddle once or twice each are Paul Lake, Heffley Lake, and Lac le Jeune. With cool spring weather we are warm in our kayaks with spray skirts on and we wear paddling jackets to block the wind. When we paddle Paul Lake, we usually launch from the beach area of the Provincial Park. The whole lake is 12 km around the shoreline, but we adjust the route to the conditions.
The wind was from the east so we paddled to that end of the lake first. We had the lake all to ourselves, except for a few loons, geese, and an occasional jumping fish.
The main source of the lake’s water comes in from Pinantan Lake and the hills to the east. A marshy area flanks the lakeshore at that end A few blackbirds were nesting in the reeds and rushes.
Paddling downwind was much easier as we followed the shoreline on the steep-sided, treed south side of the lake.
As the winds picked up and the rain threatened, we crossed the lake before Gibraltar Rock and completed the loop back to the launch spot where a few geese escorted about 20 goslings on the flooded beach. We will return to paddle the other half of the lake soon.
When we paddle the larger lakes in the early season, we keep a number of things in mind:
we check the Environment Canada Weather Forecast, paying particular attention to the wind
we stay close to the shoreline if there is any wind; we usually paddle into the wind to start our route on the lake
since the water is cold, we would probably swim to shore in the event of a capsize close to shore, rather than do a self-rescue in cold water
we always use all of the required safety gear
we usually wear good spray skirts, and we make sure the pull tab is not tucked under
a good paddling jacket helps, along with paddling gloves, and neoprene boots
we try for a dry launch to keep our feet dry, but we don’t worry about the exit, though we keep a towel and a change of shoes in the truck
Paddling upstream is always a good workout and part of a spring fitness program, getting ready for longer paddling adventures on the bigger lakes, the rivers, and the ocean in the summer. One route we do every spring is to go up the North Thompson River, which is a bit harder than the South Thompson River. I launched at Pioneer Park and paddled downstream to start the day.
The route goes under the Red Bridge, then the Black Bridge to the confluence, an easy 1.3 km start to the paddling day.
There was a “flotilla” of swans near the confluence which were annoyed at this long (18′) green boat coming toward them, but I turned the corner and started upstream towards the Halston Bridge.
There are a number of gravel or sand banks on both sides of the river so the best course is to paddle straight up the middle. There are sections of faster water so progress is slow at times. Ducks and geese stayed close to the shoreline and a bald eagle watched from a still-leafless cottonwood tree.
The beaches along Schubert Drive were starting to shrink as the flow of the river increased. This is a quiet route with no road noise until we got close to the bridge. Progress upstream is at about 3.5 km an hour. We can probably do 4 km/hour, but steady, rhythmic paddling is the key to endurance work.
The Halston Bridge was busy but there was also a train crossing the CN Bridge. Some faster water swirls under both bridges.
I paddled past the CN Bridge and looked upstream at the river. That section of river up to Rayleigh will be another day of paddling, launching out of Westsyde.
I turned the boat and paddled gently downstream, averaging more like 7.5 to 8 km/h. Mt. Paul stands over the rivers on the way back to the confluence.
Looking south into the sun is the confluence of the South and North Thompson Rivers overshadowed by the City, but reflected clouds in the river were the memory I took away from the return paddle. Turning the corner, the final 1.3 km is another slow one, upstream to Pioneer Park.
Cooney Bay can be a busy place on Easter Weekend with fishermen, dog-walkers, hikers, and families parking at the end of the road past Tranquille, and walking out to the gravel beaches where the Tranquille River meets Kamloops Lake. Getting an 18′ kayak out to the shoreline isn’t easy with a number of logs to get across, but with some rear wheels and some extra effort, the kayak was ready for launching from the muddy beach. The route was around the point where quite a few fishermen had lines in the water. A wind out of the east created some chop, but once the kayak was in Cooney Bay, it was calm. Loons were actively diving in the bay.
Following the scenic shoreline is the safest route out to Battle Bluff. The route out to the far end of Battle Bluff and back is 7.2 km.
Along the way, swallows were swooping over the water, ducks, and geese were along the shoreline, and crows and magpies flew along the beaches. A headless small hawk floated in the water. Coming back around the Battle Bluff point, a river otter rounded the corner then dove below the kayak. An eagle circled above. Bighorn sheep sat on the hill watching the show.
The winds were forecast to pick up by late morning so I turned around and followed the shoreline back to the landing spot. This is a favorite route. On a less windy day, a good route is to cross the lake (if you have a seaworthy boat with a rudder) and come back by the south shoreline.
Cooney Bay can be a busy place on Easter Weekend with fishermen, dog-walkers, hikers, and families parking at the end of the road past Tranquille, and walking out to the gravel beaches where the Tranquille River meets Kamloops Lake. Getting an 18′ kayak out to the shoreline isn’t easy with a number of logs to get across, but with some rear wheels and some extra effort, the kayak was ready for launching from the muddy beach. The route was around the point where quite a few fishermen had lines in the water. A wind out of the east created some chop, but once the kayak was in Cooney Bay, it was calm. Loons were actively diving in the bay.
Following the scenic shoreline is the safest route out to Battle Bluff. The route out to the far end of Battle Bluff and back is 7.2 km.
Along the way, swallows were swooping over the water, ducks, and geese were along the shoreline, and crows and magpies flew along the beaches. A headless small hawk floated in the water. Coming back around the Battle Bluff point, a river otter rounded the corner then dove below the kayak. An eagle circled above. Bighorn sheep sat on the hill watching the show.
The winds were forecast to pick up by late morning so I turned around and followed the shoreline back to the landing spot. This is a favorite route. On a less windy day, a good route is to cross the lake (if you have a seaworthy boat with a rudder) and come back by the south shoreline.
The first paddle of 2017 waited for the snow and ice melt and landed on the first day of spring. The river is low, but t is still easy to launch from Pioneer Park. Since the water is still cold, we try for a dry launch, keeping feet out of the water. Its not so easy to do that on the landing. The river was calm for paddling slowly upstream to Valleyview.
There were ducks (mallards and mergansers) and geese on the water. Sheltered spots still had some snow or ice. Banks that are covered in water for much of the year were exposed. Very little colour was on the trees and shrubs except for the faded reds of red ossier dogwood and some faded yellows of willows on the banks. The reflections of Mt. Paul and Mt. Peter and Paul Ridge reflected on unrippled water.
The paddle up to the end of the Gregson Trail at Vicars Road and back is only 7 km, but a good start to the paddling season.
In most years we can easily get about 8 months of paddling. We start on the river then go to the larger lakes once the ice disappears, then the high country lakes, then sections of the river again. In the summer and early fall we travel to the ocean and some destination paddling-camping trips. We return back to the river in late fall for final few paddles before it gets too cold. One down and sixty more to go…..
Emar Lakes Park was created in 1996 as a wilderness area of small lakes, potholes, and wet areas in a forested area off Highway 24. The lakes are used by fishermen, but there is also a lake chain loop with portages for canoeists and kayakers. Access is from Janice Lake Recreation Site or from Willowgrouse Recreation Site. The trails/portages are mostly user maintained and have become difficult with windfall. To do the loop counter-clockwise, paddlers would have to do the following:
launch at Janice Lake (link to an article) at N51 29.457 W120 24.410
paddle 1.5km to the landing spot (at N50 29.115 W120 25.090)
portage for 1030 metres to Club Lake (past Next Lake)
paddle to the end of Club Lake (780m)
portage 100m to Boulder Lake
paddle across Boulder Lake (400m)
portage 400m to Willowgrouse Lake
option to paddle Willowgrouse Lake (670m) then portage out the campsite (500m) or
paddle across Willowgrouse following the loop (230m)
portage 150m to Emar Lake
paddle across Emar Lake (1.2 km)
portage 450m to a pothole lake then 100m into Sedge Lake (or push through to Dytiscid Lake)
paddle across Sedge Lake (220m)
portage 700m to the end of Janice Lake
paddle to the start (400m)
All of the trails are currently closed with windfall and danger trees on the route. Hopefully Parks can find some funding or perhaps volunteer user groups can help keep the routes open (count me in)? A BC Parks map is included here and more information can also be found on the Parks website (link).
The only Hawaiian island that has navigable rivers is Kauai. The Hanalei River is the second largest (in flow) on the island, descending from the upper slopes of Mt. Wai’ale’ale to the ocean in 15.7 miles. The lower part of the river flows slowly through dense forests, past taro fields, and then it winds through a flat coastal estuary. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is a bit inaccessible to visitors, except by kayak to the lower half of the Refuge.
We paddled upstream into the current for 2 km to the forested Refuge.
The Refuge protects endangered waterbirds, but there are also 18 other species that use the wetlands area. We spotted a few birds in the dense forest and at the water’s edge.
This is a quiet area and kayaks can enter the watery corridor discretely without scaring off birds, amphibians, and reptiles.
Box turtles sunned themselves on logs at the river’s edge.
From the Refuge we paddled downstream to the mouth of the river where it entered the incoming waves of Hanalei Bay.
We landed at Black Pot Beach to watch the surfers in the crescent-shaped bay. We paddled upstream for the last kilometer of our 10 km route on the Hanalei River.
Moose Valley is located 22 km west of 100 Mile House, accessed by the Gustafson Lake Road. The Moose Valley Access Road turns off and follows the chain of lakes to a campsite on Marks Lake. The road does continue onto the end of Maitland Lake, but it is a rougher section. Paddlers can start at either lake and work their way southeast to Canoe Lake.
Although all of the portages are short, they are not suitable for canoe or kayak carts. Each boat will have to be carried to the next lake, pond, or waterway. In spring, though, there is more water between the lakes allowing for paddling through wetlands or hand-lining in shallow areas. There is one rocky portage near the Beaverlodge Lakes.
At the southeast end of the chain, the route goes from Long Lake to Moose Lake to Canoe Lake in a loop. From the south end of Canoe Lake, there is a portage out to an access road for a second vehicle pick-up.
The lakes are shallow and don’t make great fishing. After June 1st, mosquitoes are likely. After August 1st the wetlands will be drier meadows so the ideal time would be in May. Options include camping at Marks Lake and going right through in a long day or paddling part way through the chain and camping at rough campsites on Canoe Lake or Long Lake. Another option is to go out and back in a day.
The through route is only 7.5 km end-to-end from Marks Lake to the portage out to the Gustafson Lake Road. The advantage of doing it all in a day (or camping at the trailhead and doing it all in a day) is that the canoes or kayaks can go through the chain unloaded, making the portages much easier.
The right time to do this route is in May or early June to have higher water levels, low mosquito populations, relatively warm conditions, and spring birds and ducks along the way. We haven’t done this route yet, but its on our list for this year.
The first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit is a challenge with difficult portages, some rough campsites, and long paddles. The return to Bowron Lake, the second half of the Circuit, is a much more enjoyable wilderness experience. The Bowron River empties into Lanezi Lake then there is another shorter downriver paddle to Sandy Lake, an easy paddle with the current. From Sandy Lake there are no long or difficult portages all the way to the launch/landing at the north end of Bowron Lake.
There are wide sandy beaches on Sandy Lake and fine scenery back up the Cariboo RiverValley. The weather had improved by this point.
The Cariboo River runs along between Needlepoint Ridge on the north and the Cariboo Mountains on the south side. There was a fresh layer of snow on the 8000 foot mountains.
Sandy Lake is a fine spot for paddle-camping but it is an even better with clearing skies.
From Sandy Lake, there is another 3.7 km paddle down the river. Paddlers can choose to continue downriver to Unna Lake to camp and to hike the trail down to Cariboo Falls or they can veer into Babcock Creek to start the uphill (but reasonable) 1.1 km portage to Babcock Lake. For kayakers, a series of short portages becomes a series of chores – unloading, hauling, and reloading. Across Babock Lake is a 2.8 km paddle followed by two shorter portages with one brief paddle in-between (0.4 km, 0.6 km, 0.3 km). Once we entered the Spectacle Lakes, the portages were over and we just paddled down the lake to a fine campground on a point with views in both directions
The route continued up the lake to the northeast, for 13 km down Spectacle Lake into Swan Lake and then to the outlet. The west end of Bowron Provincial Park has lower and more rounded hills as compared to the mountainous east side.
After days of wind and rain, it was wonderful to have calm and clear conditions for the final part of the trip.
From the north end of Swan Lake a channel drains down toward Bowron Lake and the Bowron River enters from the east along this 3km section of easy paddling.
The start of fall brought some color the shores of Bowron Lake. The final paddle across Bowron Lake is 7 km. The BC Parks landing is just a dock and steep walkway in a marshy area, followed by a steep trail, an awkward set-up for a loaded kayak. We would land over at the boat launch on the west side next time and walk back to get our vehicles.
After having done the whole circuit, in retrospect, we found the first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit to be a demanding challenge for long kayaks, especially in marginal weather and muddy conditions.
The second half was an enjoyable backcountry paddle in beautiful terrain. The Return to Bowron Lakes section from the Cariboo River to the end of Bowron Lake is so good that we may return to paddle the west end only. This shorter route goes from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake (with an extra hike to Cariboo Falls), a 60 km out-and back route with 3 short portages, although the portages could be done with an unloaded boat if camping on Spectacle Lake.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit is one of the top paddling destinations in the world, a week-long paddling, portaging, and camping wilderness challenge. Reservations are needed to venture onto the circuit and an orientation is required before starting on the 2.4 km portage to Kibee Lake. We had our long kayaks loaded onto kayak carts to pull up the hill early in the morning. Our first mistake was not to bring large portage packs (70 – 100 L) to take the heavier items out of the boats. With all the weight in the hull storage chambers, the boat was hard to pull up the hills and it was very difficult in muddy and rocky sections. Some kayaks have a good handle system for an easier pull. My kayak had a poor design and the handle was pulled right out, leaving a gaping hole in the top of the boat. I then pulled it from the rear (aft) handle and eventually pulled that one out too. With a complicated strap design, the kayak could still be pulled, although more slowly and with much grumpiness. It was demanding to pull a weighted kayak the 2.8 km distance, but we eventually made it to Kibee Lake for an easy 2.2 km paddle across the lake.
The first half of the trip has all the hardest portages. The Bowron Lakes Circuit is better for canoes than for kayaks. The gear can be unloaded into portage bags and two people can pull the empty canoe on a larger cart. Canoes passed us on the portages and we passed the canoes on the water.
The second portage was 2.0 km, but it was steep, rocky, muddy, and rough. My 18.5 foot kayak took a beating with the ends bowing up and down as it went over rocks, logs, and through mud holes. On Indianpoint Lake, water poured into the cockpit from a significant crack under the seat, right at the edge of where the kayak cart was. We all found the first two portages to be difficult and discouraging, but we camped on Indianpoint Lake that first night before the rains came in. We enjoyed the campsite (#5). Our friends Ian and Wilma were much better prepared for this venture and Ian had packed Crazy Glue so the crack on the bottom of the boat was partly repaired, though it would not stand for more heavy portaging.
On Day 2, at the end of Indianpoint Lake, the third portage was much easier, a big relief for a kayaker with a boat with three holes in it. We paddled down the west arm of Isaac Lake and stayed at a larger campsite (#15 on Wolverine Creek) with an open shelter, a welcome retreat in the rain.
The paddle down Isaac Lake is a long one. Although we had hoped to get right down the lake, wind, hail, then rain forced us to camp at a primitive site. The tent pads were raised, but were not filled with proper material so they filled up with water. That was a wet night. Isaac Lake is the longest lake and is prone to wind and rain (more grumpiness set in).
The next day we paddled down to the end of Isaac Lake with some rain. The kayak leaked a bit but another paddler (Bob) gave me some kevlar tape to cover the crack. After lunch at the shelter at the end of the lake, we started down the portage to McCleary Lake. Although a lot of it was downhill, it was very rough and quite steep at the bottom. This ordeal resulted in another crack in the hull of the boat. The campground at the bottom of the Isaac River cascade was full, so wet and discouraged, we paddled down McCleary Lake, but we were pleased to find the old (1935) cabin unoccupied so all 5 of us crowded into the small, dark single room cabin. By foraging we found enough materials to start a fire in an old wood stove (thanks to Ian), so we were able to dry out some of our gear.
I used the last of the kevlar tape and crazy glue on the hull of the boat after finding a second crack. I made the decision to unload the boat for any portage for the rest of the trip. Any further expansion of the cracks would make the boat impossible to stay afloat. Another paddler gave me some duct tape later on the same trip. With all the support offered and some care, we got the damaged boat all the way through the Circuit.
The weather started to improve on the 4th day as we paddled across McLeary Lake and down the Cariboo River.
We could finally see some of the rugged Cariboo Ranges rising above the lakes.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit can be done in 3 to 4 days if paddlers have a good portage pack system and two people for each boat. The days would be long and tiring, but if the weather cooperated, it can be done. The portages are harder for kayakers. The right boat*, a larger canoe cart, and a good portage pack would make a big difference.
The first half of the Circuit is a demanding one with 3 hard portages and one easier one. Isaac Lake is a long paddle, but quite enjoyable if done in 2 days. We had the wrong setup and some poor weather so the first 3.5 days were less enjoyable, although the paddling on the lakes and river was still very nice.
The second half of the Bowron Lake Circuit was much nicer, to be featured in an article to follow (Dec. 19, 2016 titled Return to Bowron Lake).
The right boat would a be a stiffer one – fiberglass or kevlar, but it would still have to be a high capacity boat. A long plastic boat needs a larger kayak cart with large radius wheels. In the end, Delta Kayaks repaired the boat and they showed me their new designs that avoid these kinds of problems.
In late October in Kamloops fall colours adorn the riverbanks, especially on the North Thompson River. I launched at Pioneer Park and paddled downstream to the confluence, then turned upstream paddling steadily against current to the Halston Bridge and back.
This same route was paddled in March (Up the North Thompson) and will be hope to return in early spring and fall in the next year. I spotted an osprey, two great blue herons, a kingfisher, and eagle, a flock of buffleheads, seagulls, and the usual crows, magpies, and other birds. No other boats were on the rivers on this mild fall day. Our “orange corridor” on the Thompson Rivers is a special place in October.
While on Kauai, we stayed on the North Shore and chose to paddle the Hanalei River on a cloudy, warm day. We rented boats from Kayak Hanalei and launched into the river. These were 11 foot sit-on-top kayaks. Rudderless, tubby, buoyant, and slow.
We turned upstream and paddled for about 2.2 miles into the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. With a constant downstream flow, the kayaks stopped and turned if we stopped paddling, difficult for photography.
The shoreline was all flowering shrubs, vines, and tropical trees. The upper part of the river became narrow and shallower. In the Refuge, we spotted many birds, turtles, and fish.
We turned and paddled downstream for 3 miles to the mouth of the river where it emptied into the surf at Hanalei Bay. Entry into the ocean would be difficult, better suited to surfboards than tubby kayaks.
The final leg of 6 miles of paddling was upstream and into the wind. These types of kayaks are neither efficient, nor comfortable, but the effort is worth the experience on the river.
Kauai has the only navigable rivers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Hanalei River is the second longest. We hope to paddle the Wailua River next time.
Although we really enjoyed the river, we found the boats to be klunky, wandering, and uncomfortable. We know that rental companies buy them because novices can get back in if they spill, the boats can take a beating, and they are inexpensive but it is like playing tennis with a pickleball racquet. Next time we will paddleboard on the river.
While on Kauai, we stayed on the North Shore and chose to paddle the Hanalei River on a cloudy, warm day. We rented boats from Kayak Hanalei and launched into the river. These were 11 foot sit-on-top kayaks. Rudderless, tubby, buoyant, and slow.
We turned upstream and paddled for about 2.2 miles into the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. With a constant downstream flow, the kayaks stopped and turned if we stopped paddling, difficult for photography.
The shoreline was all flowering shrubs, vines, and tropical trees. The upper part of the river became narrow and shallower. In the Refuge, we spotted many birds, turtles, and fish.
We turned and paddled downstream for 3 miles to the mouth of the river where it emptied into the surf at Hanalei Bay. Entry into the ocean would be difficult, better suited to surfboards than tubby kayaks.
The final leg of 6 miles of paddling was upstream and into the wind. These types of kayaks are neither efficient, nor comfortable, but the effort is worth the experience on the river.
Kauai has the only navigable rivers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Hanalei River is the second longest. We hope to paddle the Wailua River next time.
Although we really enjoyed the river, we found the boats to be klunky, wandering, and uncomfortable. We know that rental companies buy them because novices can get back in if they spill, the boats can take a beating, and they are inexpensive but it is like playing tennis with a pickleball racquet. Next time we will paddleboard on the river.
Stand up paddle boarding on flat water is a lot easier than SUP on the sea. Off the south shore of Kauai we can launch the board through the surf and head out through the waves past all the breakers to the rolling ocean, but its not easy to stay on top. From the shore, we can watch the skillful paddlers cut through the waves, making it look easy.
On my first attempt last year in windy conditions, I was launched a few times. Since then, I took a lesson, bought a board and went out to practice on flatwater a few times. But the ocean is different. In my first two times, I needed to kneel to get out and back, though I could stand up and paddle out past the breakers. On this last day, I stood up to paddle out, sat down to take some pictures (not easy to do), then stood up to paddle back. The prevailing winds from the southeast moved the board downwind if I sat or stopped, but the zone out past the breakers is a great spot to paddle, swim, or SUP.
Photography from a SUP is always a bit of a challenge on rolling, changing seas. Sitting own is the safest way not to sacrifice the camera to the sea gods.
Each day I try to stand up for more of the SUP-on-the-sea challenge. For athletes who surf, snowboard, and skateboard, SUP comes more naturally. For the rest of us, SUP on the sea is an incremental process of improvement. Soon we will heading down the coastline and back.