Downriver paddling is one of the best outdoor experiences, but paddling in a shallow river with the salmon migrating upstream to spawn is a special experience. During the last big sockeye run, we paddled down the Shuswap River from the Skookumchuck to Enderby.
The river runs faster at the upper end and slowly at the lower end over a 35 km journey. For the whole distance, there was a steady stream of red sockeye moving upstream, with an occasional large blackish spring salmon. Fish jumped out of the water, surprising us each time. In shallower sections, we had to be careful to avoid striking the salmon with our kayak paddles. Eagles perched on tree limbs. Seagulls, crows, eagles, and a number of small mammals scavenged dead fish on the shore. The normally quiet river was abuzz with life.
We had timed the paddle to the peak of the salmon run and are looking forward to the next peak years.
The Shuswap River rises high in the Monashee Range on the west side of the Monashee Divide behind Mt. Begbie, Blanket Mountain, and the Greenbush Basin. It flows south into Sugar Lake, and south then west towards Lumby. At Shuswap Falls, it turns north and continues until it flows into Mabel Lake. Twenty five kilometres north, the river flows out of Mabel Lake into a two kilometre section called the Skookumchuck. Coming out of the canyon, the river runs for 36 kilometres down to Enderby, where it again turns north and meanders through the farmlands to Grindrod, then northeast to Mara Lake. The waters channel through Sicamous Narrows into Shuswap Lake. It is a long journey with a number of opportunities for paddling.
The section featured here is the leg from below the “Chuck” to Enderby. The Skookumchuck is best left to whitewater experts. Below the rapids, there are a number of hand-launch areas to pick from. The first is at Brandt’s Landing, a small BCFS camp area across from the Three Valley Road. We found this site a little tight for parking and launching so we chose a site a short distance downstream next to “the mailboxes”, where there is ample parking, a beach and a back eddy for easy launching (approx. N50 36.569, W118 46.500). Further down, there is also an excellent launch area at the Cooke Creek campsite.
The first few kilometers travel through canyons and high-banked wooded forest. Some of the sections feature faster water and a few bumpy rapids, but nothing serious. There was a cable across the river at one point warning paddlers of a sweeper on the river curve, so we portaged around the spot, but we saw that we could have paddled close to the shoreline on the south side instead.
We were lucky enough to paddle the route during the salmon run and the entire 35 km route was a journey passing through the sockeye and chinook’s migration upstream. Fisheries staff were carry ing on studies on the river, eagles and kingfishers sat on snags, scavenger birds pecked at the dead fish, a bear prowled the shoreline, and salmon constantly jumped into the air. In shallower gravels, females waited for males before laying eggs. In water about 1m – 1.5m deep, a line of red sockeye swam upstream. Larger black speckled chinook also joined the parade. In the shallowest sections, we had to be careful not to strike the fish with our paddles.
The water is incredibly clear so we could see the sockeye, chinook, and trout in the river below the kayaks in almost every part of the river. The first half of the route runs through clear waters. The middle section of the river is dotted with many islands, the river bottom is siltier and the river runs slowly, but is still clear and weed-free.
The entire paddle is 35-36 kilometres to Enderby. On the top part of the paddle, the river runs quickly and straight. With the current and paddling we were able to maintain 9km/hr. When we hit the middle section, the river runs slowly and requires more paddling. There are many beaches and sandbars in this section, any of which make a good place to stop for lunch. The lower section of the river meanders through farmlands, although there are also two short sections of fast water in canyons. The final few kilometers wind through the pastures to the southeast of Enderby and the river’s current is slowest here. We landed at the bridge in Enderby. It took us 4.5 hours to cover the 35km journey.
There are many signed hand launch spots along the road so a paddler can pick a shorter route. A recommended shorter section would be to launch at Cooke Creek and pull out at the Trinity Bridge (Ashton Creek). A two-vehicle system is needed, but we have often thought of launching, then landing at journey’s end, locking up our boats, and calling for a taxi ride back to our vehicle. There is actually a drop-off, pick-up service for tubers in Enderby for the “float season.” If you try this method, you will need to exit near a landline, though, since mobile phones have no coverage up this valley.
This section of the Shuswap River is why kayaks and canoes were invented. Include it in your ‘(paddle) bucket-list.”
