The three best lakes for kayaking in our area are Paul Lake, Heffley Lake, and Lac le Jeune and we set out to paddle the whole shoreline of all 3 each spring. Lac le Jeune also has the smaller lake on the west side of the road, the highlight of a day of paddling in the high country. Paddling around both lakes is about 9.4 km. It can be a busy lake so it is better to get an early start if it is a weekend. The best place to launch is off the beach at Lac le Jeune Provincial Park.
There are a number of homes on both the north and south shore, but the east end is just lodgepole pine and spruce forest with some marshy areas.
After doing the circuit around 3/4 of the lake we paddled through the channel under the road. We have to duck low and pull ourselves through when the water is high. Once in the lagoon on the west side, we followed the marshland shoreline and then into a channel to see blackbirds, marsh wrens, ducks, and geese in the reeds. There was also a chironomid hatch on so the smaller fish were rising for a mid-morning meal of midges.
There is a channel at the east end surrounded by cattails, reeds, and marsh conquefoil. Marsh wrens and red-winged blackbirds were trilling in the wetlands.
We returned through the channel and finished our paddle of the Lac le Jeune Lakes before the rush of boaters arrived. The outing is about 2 hours of paddling if we choose to explore all the marshlands and small bays of the two lakes.
When the North Thompson and the South Thompson Rivers rise, the Thompson River expands and the estuary at the head of Kamloops Lake widens into a floodlands. We can launch a canoe or kayak from the BC Parks Lac du Bois Wildlife Management Area parking area. .This launch spot is suitable for canoes and kayaks only during freshet.
We paddle out through Tranquille Bay past the floodland shrub “islands” to the river, then across the river to the far side.
When there is no wind, there are many reflections in the calm bayous.
Willows are tolerant of the salt-rich alkaline waters. They are the dominant plant in the floodlands.
Clusters of willows and salt-tolerant shrubs make watery islands.
From the river, Mount Mara rises above and reflects in the water.
Kamloops Lake and the estuary become one, a larger lake during freshet.
Along the flood channels and in the bayous, there are carp, ducks, western painted turtles, cormorants, herons, eagles, osprey, geese, blackbirds, crows, and wide variety of birds and insects.
We paddle quietly, careful not to startle the wildlife, listening for the calls of birds, always aware that we need to be as unobtrusive as we can in the seasonal Tranquille floodlands.
The floodlands offer the finest paddling in our area for May and June each year. Watch for our kayaks there.
Every spring we paddle down the South Thompson River in 21 km outings. From the Lafarge Bridge (NE side) we launched our kayaks and enjoyed a 3 hour flatwater paddle from Lafarge to Pioneer Park. Using a two vehicle system, we started paddling about 9:30 am and landed at the boat launch at Pioneer by 12:30. One of the keys to an outing like this is to paddle downstream before the power boats get onto the river, if possible.
There are homes, businesses, the railway, and the highway along the south shore, but the north shore is much quieter and more scenic.
Eagles and ospreys watched over the river along the route. This eagle perched in front of its nest in a snag. Photos taken from a kayak are never easy. It would be easy to drop the camera in the swirling, swiftly-moving water of the river. The camera survived this last outing.
Five kayaks are seen here below the silt cliffs on the north side of the river near Harper Ranch.
There were geese, goslings, ducks, blackbirds, and bank swallows all along the route.
On several sections of the river there is only the riparian zone with Shuswap Road and the silt cliffs above, remnants of a glacial lake.
On the other side are waterfront homes near Campbell Creek, in Dallas, and Valleyview. The final section of the journey goes through a narrow section by the TIB Office, then a short section into Downtown Kamloops.
By noon there was a fair amount of boat traffic on the river, a good time to land and get the 18+ foot kayaks away from the noise and turbulent waves of the powerboat crowd. The best part of this route is the first half with quiet kayaks gliding among the birds on the river.
There are several posts on paddling the river from Chase to Kamloops and from Clearwater to Kamloops. Use the Search Bar for more information.
Once the ice clears off our area lakes we head out to do a circuit of local lakes. The first three to paddle once or twice each are Paul Lake, Heffley Lake, and Lac le Jeune. With cool spring weather we are warm in our kayaks with spray skirts on and we wear paddling jackets to block the wind. When we paddle Paul Lake, we usually launch from the beach area of the Provincial Park. The whole lake is 12 km around the shoreline, but we adjust the route to the conditions.
The wind was from the east so we paddled to that end of the lake first. We had the lake all to ourselves, except for a few loons, geese, and an occasional jumping fish.
The main source of the lake’s water comes in from Pinantan Lake and the hills to the east. A marshy area flanks the lakeshore at that end A few blackbirds were nesting in the reeds and rushes.
Paddling downwind was much easier as we followed the shoreline on the steep-sided, treed south side of the lake.
As the winds picked up and the rain threatened, we crossed the lake before Gibraltar Rock and completed the loop back to the launch spot where a few geese escorted about 20 goslings on the flooded beach. We will return to paddle the other half of the lake soon.
When we paddle the larger lakes in the early season, we keep a number of things in mind:
We check the Environment Canada Weather Forecast, paying particular attention to the wind.
We stay close to the shoreline if there is any wind; we usually paddle into the wind to start our route on the lake.
Since the water is cold, we would probably swim to shore in the event of a capsize close to shore, rather than do a self-rescue in cold water.
We always use all of the required safety gear.
We usually wear good spray skirts, and we make sure the pull tab is not tucked under.
A good paddling jacket helps, along with paddling gloves, and neoprene boots.
We try for a dry launch to keep our feet dry, but we don’t worry about the exit, though we keep a towel and a change of shoes in the truck.
In spring we start our paddling season on the South Thompson and North Thompson Rivers. The best launch is from Pioneer Park, but we also go to other launch sites to paddle different parts of the rivers. With Valleyview Boat Launch closed for bank repairs, we went out to the Lafarge Bridge beach and paddled upstream in early April.
There is a good access road to a small beach where we can launch the boat to paddle upstream. The river runs fast here and the north shore has extensive gravel bars so we launch and swing out into the main river channel.
After an hour of paddling upstream, I turned the kayak for a gentle downstream return paddle.
Because of the current (and some wind), the downstream paddle was 3x faster than upstream, but distance is not the issue in the early season. We just need to build up the core muscles and establish some endurance in preparation for 9 months of paddling.
At the end of the paddle, as we approach the Lafarge Bridge, we swing over to the beach for an easy landing.
We often land at the Lafarge Bridge when we paddle downstream from Pritchard. It is is much more enjoyable outing than battling the river upstream. After all, the “treadmill” becomes tiresome after a while.
Paddling upstream is always a good workout and part of a spring fitness program, getting ready for longer paddling adventures on the bigger lakes, the rivers, and the ocean in the summer. One route we do every spring is to go up the North Thompson River, which is a bit harder than the South Thompson River. I launched at Pioneer Park and paddled downstream to start the day.
The route goes under the Red Bridge, then the Black Bridge to the confluence, an easy 1.3 km start to the paddling day.
There was a “flotilla” of swans near the confluence which were annoyed at this long (18′) green boat coming toward them, but I turned the corner and started upstream towards the Halston Bridge.
There are a number of gravel or sand banks on both sides of the river so the best course is to paddle straight up the middle. There are sections of faster water so progress is slow at times. Ducks and geese stayed close to the shoreline and a bald eagle watched from a still-leafless cottonwood tree.
The beaches along Schubert Drive were starting to shrink as the flow of the river increased. This is a quiet route with no road noise until we got close to the bridge. Progress upstream is at about 3.5 km an hour. We can probably do 4 km/hour, but steady, rhythmic paddling is the key to endurance work.
The Halston Bridge was busy but there was also a train crossing the CN Bridge. Some faster water swirls under both bridges.
I paddled past the CN Bridge and looked upstream at the river. That section of river up to Rayleigh will be another day of paddling, launching out of Westsyde. I turned the boat and paddled gently downstream, averaging more like 7.5 to 8 km/h. Mt. Paul stands over the rivers on the way back to the confluence.
Looking south into the sun is the confluence of the South and North Thompson Rivers overshadowed by the City, but reflected clouds in the river were the memory I took away from the return paddle. Turning the corner, the final 1.3 km is another slow one, upstream to Pioneer Park.
The first paddle of 2017 waited for the snow and ice melt and landed on the first day of spring. The river is low, but it is still easy to launch from Pioneer Park. Since the water is still cold, we try for a dry launch, keeping feet out of the water. Its not so easy to do that on the landing. The river was calm for paddling slowly upstream to Valleyview.
There were ducks (mallards and mergansers) and geese on the water. Sheltered spots still had some snow or ice. Banks that are covered in water for much of the year were exposed. Very little colour was on the trees and shrubs except for the faded reds of red ossier dogwood and some faded yellows of willows on the banks. The reflections of Mt. Paul and Mt. Peter and Paul Ridge reflected on unrippled water.
The paddle up to the end of the Gregson Trail at Vicars Road and back is only 7 km, but a good start to the paddling season.
In most years we can easily get about 8 months of paddling. We start on the river then go to the larger lakes once the ice disappears, then the high country lakes, then sections of the river again. In the summer and early fall we travel to the ocean and some destination paddling-camping trips. We return back to the river in late fall for final few paddles before it gets too cold. One down and sixty more to go…..
Emar Lakes Park was created in 1996 as a wilderness area of small lakes, potholes, and wet areas in a forested area off Highway 24. The lakes are used by fishermen, but there is also a lake chain loop with portages for canoeists and kayakers. Access is from Janice Lake Recreation Site or from Willowgrouse Recreation Site. The trails/portages are mostly user maintained and have become difficult with windfall. To do the loop counter-clockwise, paddlers would have to do the following:
launch at Janice Lake (link to an article) at N51 29.457 W120 24.410
paddle 1.5km to the landing spot (at N50 29.115 W120 25.090)
portage for 1030 metes to Club Lake (past Next Lake)
paddle to the end of Club Lake (780m)
portage 100m to Boulder Lake
paddle across Boulder Lake (400m)
portage 400m to Willowgrouse Lake
option to paddle Willowgrouse Lake (670m) then portage out the campsite (500m) or
paddle across Willowgrouse following the loop (230m)
portage 150m to Emar Lake
paddle across Emar Lake (1.2 km)
portage 450m to a pothole lake then 100m into Sedge Lake (or push through to Dytiscid Lake)
paddle across Sedge Lake (220m)
portage 700m to the end of Janice Lake
paddle to the start (400m)
All of the trails are currently closed with windfall and danger trees on the route. Hopefully Parks can find some funding or perhaps volunteer user groups can help keep the routes open (count me in)? A BC Parks map is included here and more information can also be found on the Parks website (link).
The chain of lakes from Davis Lake to Flat Lake would best be done in the spring while there is still lots of water in the channels between the lakes and before the mosquitoes hatch. The start is on Davis Lake, 20 km southwest of 100 Mile House. The chain is usually done in one to three day trips. All of the portages are short, but are not well-marked.
It would be best to scout the route out and that will be my intention. A one-day trip with a small kayak, a round-trip of about 10 km with 3 portages each way is planned.
With this sort of adventure it is the portages that are the issue. Two people with a good packing system can carry a canoe much more easily than kayakers can manage. A small 10 foot kayak will slip over the shoulder with a padded shoulder insert to allow carrying for short distances. I also have a SUP sling-carry system I will be trying out. Two people can also carry one kayak and then come back for the other, but kayaks are more awkward than canoes for portaging. .
The route to the end and back is 12 portages, but split into two days this can be done.
Flat Lake Provincial Park is mostly undeveloped but has rocky islets, bogs, marshes, riparian and aquatic vegetation, ducks, and a variety of birds including loons, herons, as well as beavers and muskrats.
Because it is fairly inaccessible except by canoe and portaging, it offers paddlers a chance to experience wild wetlands firsthand.
Moose Valley is located 22 km west of 100 Mile House, accessed by the Gustafson Lake Road. The Moose Valley Access Road turns off and follows the chain of lakes to a campsite on Marks Lake. The road does continue onto the end of Maitland Lake, but it is a rougher section. Paddlers can start at either lake and work their way southeast to Canoe Lake.
Although all of the portages are short, they are not suitable for canoe or kayak carts. Each boat will have to be carried to the next lake, pond, or waterway. In spring, though, there is more water between the lakes allowing for paddling through wetlands or hand-lining in shallow areas. There is one rocky portage near the Beaverlodge Lakes.
At the southeast end of the chain, the route goes from Long Lake to Moose Lake to Canoe Lake in a loop. From the south end of Canoe Lake, there is a portage out to an access road for a second vehicle pick-up.
The lakes are shallow and don’t make great fishing. After June 1st, mosquitoes are likely. After August 1st the wetlands will be drier meadows so the ideal time would be in May. Options include camping at Marks Lake and going right through in a long day or paddling part way through the chain and camping at rough campsites on Canoe Lake or Long Lake. Another option is to go out and back in a day.
The through route is only 7.5 km end-to-end from Marks Lake to the portage out to the Gustafson Lake Road. The advantage of doing it all in a day (or camping at the trailhead and doing it all in a day) is that the canoes or kayaks can go through the chain unloaded, making the portages much easier.
The right time to do this route is in May or early June to have higher water levels, low mosquito populations, relatively warm conditions, and spring birds and ducks along the way. We haven’t done this route yet, but its on our list for this year.
The first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit is a challenge with difficult portages, some rough campsites, and long paddles. The return to Bowron Lake, the second half of the Circuit, is a much more enjoyable wilderness experience. The Bowron River empties into Lanezi Lake then there is another shorter downriver paddle to Sandy Lake, an easy paddle with the current. From Sandy Lake there are no long or difficult portages all the way to the launch/landing at the north end of Bowron Lake.
There are wide sandy beaches on Sandy Lake and fine scenery back up the Cariboo RiverValley. The weather had improved by this point.
The Cariboo River runs along between Needlepoint Ridge on the north and the Cariboo Mountains on the south side. There was a fresh layer of snow on the 8000 foot mountains.
Sandy Lake is a fine spot for paddle-camping but it is an even better with clearing skies.
From Sandy Lake, there is another 3.7 km paddle down the river. Paddlers can choose to continue downriver to Unna Lake to camp and to hike the trail down to Cariboo Falls or they can veer into Babcock Creek to start the uphill (but reasonable) 1.1 km portage to Babcock Lake. For kayakers, a series of short portages becomes a series of chores – unloading, hauling, and reloading. Across Babock Lake is a 2.8 km paddle followed by two shorter portages with one brief paddle in-between (0.4 km, 0.6 km, 0.3 km). Once we entered the Spectacle Lakes, the portages were over and we just paddled down the lake to a fine campground on a point with views in both directions.
The route continued up the lake to the northeast, for 13 km down Spectacle Lake into Swan Lake and then to the outlet. The west end of Bowron Provincial Park has lower and more rounded hills as compared to the mountainous east side. After days of wind and rain, it was wonderful to have calm and clear conditions for the final part of the trip.
From the north end of Swan Lake a channel drains down toward Bowron Lake and the Bowron River enters from the east along this 3km section of easy paddling.
The start of fall brought some color the shores of Bowron Lake. The final paddle across Bowron Lake is 7 km. The BC Parks landing is just a dock and steep walkway in a marshy area, followed by a steep trail, an awkward set-up for a loaded kayak. We would land over at the boat launch on the west side next time and walk back to get our vehicles.
After having done the whole circuit, in retrospect, we found the first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit to be a demanding challenge for long kayaks, especially in marginal weather and muddy conditions.
The second half was an enjoyable backcountry paddle in beautiful terrain. The Return to Bowron Lakes section from the Cariboo River to the end of Bowron Lake is so good that we may return to paddle the west end only. This shorter route goes from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake (with an extra hike to Cariboo Falls), a 60 km out-and back route with 3 short portages, although the portages could be done with an unloaded boat if camping on Spectacle Lake.
The first part of the Bowron Lake Circuit is on this website (Use the Search Bar)
The Bowron Lakes Circuit is one of the top paddling destinations in the world, a week-long paddling, portaging, and camping wilderness challenge. Reservations are needed to venture onto the circuit and an orientation is required before starting on the 2.4 km portage to Kibee Lake. We had our long kayaks loaded onto kayak carts to pull up the hill early in the morning. Our first mistake was not to bring large portage packs (70 – 100 L) to take the heavier items out of the boats. With all the weight in the hull storage chambers, the boat was hard to pull up the hills and it was very difficult in muddy and rocky sections. Some kayaks have a good handle system for an easier pull. My kayak had a poor design and the handle was pulled right out, leaving a gaping hole in the top of the boat. I then pulled it from the rear (aft) handle and eventually pulled that one out too. With a complicated strap design, the kayak could still be pulled, although more slowly and with much grumpiness. It was demanding to pull a weighted kayak the 2.8 km distance, but we eventually made it to Kibee Lake for an easy 2.2 km paddle across the lake.
The first half of the trip has all the hardest portages. The Bowron Lakes Circuit is better for canoes than for kayaks. The gear can be unloaded into portage bags and two people can pull the empty canoe on a larger cart. Canoes passed us on the portages and we passed the canoes on the water.
The second portage was 2.0 km, but it was steep, rocky, muddy, and rough. My 18.5 foot kayak took a beating with the ends bowing up and down as it went over rocks, logs, and through mud holes. On Indianpoint Lake, water poured into the cockpit from a significant crack under the seat, right at the edge of where the kayak cart was. We all found the first two portages to be difficult and discouraging, but we camped on Indianpoint Lake that first night before the rains came in. We enjoyed the campsite (#5). Our friends Ian and Wilma were much better prepared for this venture and Ian had packed Crazy Glue so the crack on the bottom of the boat was partly repaired, though it would not stand for more heavy portaging.
On Day 2, at the end of Indianpoint Lake, the third portage was much easier, a big relief for a kayaker with a boat with three holes in it. We paddled down the west arm of Isaac Lake and stayed at a larger campsite (#15 on Wolverine Creek) with an open shelter, a welcome retreat in the rain.
The paddle down Isaac Lake is a long one. Although we had hoped to get right down the lake, wind, hail, then rain forced us to camp at a primitive site. The tent pads were raised, but were not filled with proper material so they filled up with water. That was a wet night. Isaac Lake is the longest lake and is prone to wind and rain (more grumpiness set in).
The next day we paddled down to the end of Isaac Lake with some rain. The kayak leaked a bit but another paddler (Bob) gave me some kevlar tape to cover the crack. After lunch at the shelter at the end of the lake, we started down the portage to McCleary Lake. Although a lot of it was downhill, it was very rough and quite steep at the bottom. This ordeal resulted in another crack in the hull of the boat. The campground at the bottom of the Isaac River cascade was full, so wet and discouraged, we paddled down McCleary Lake, but we were pleased to find the old (1935) cabin unoccupied so all 5 of us crowded into the small, dark single room cabin. By foraging we found enough materials to start a fire in an old wood stove (thanks to Ian), so we were able to dry out some of our gear.
I used the last of the kevlar tape and crazy glue on the hull of the boat after finding a second crack. I made the decision to unload the boat for any portage for the rest of the trip. Any further expansion of the cracks would make the boat impossible to stay afloat. Another paddler gave me some duct tape later on the same trip. With all the support offered and some care, we got the damaged boat all the way through the Circuit.
The weather started to improve on the 4th day as we paddled across McLeary Lake and down the Cariboo River.
We could finally see some of the rugged Cariboo Ranges rising above the lakes.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit can be done in 3 to 4 days if paddlers have a good portage pack system and two people for each boat. The days would be long and tiring, but if the weather cooperated, it can be done. The portages are harder for kayakers. The right boat*, a larger canoe cart, and a good portage pack would make a big difference.
The first half of the Circuit is a demanding one with 3 hard portages and one easier one. Isaac Lake is a long paddle, but quite enjoyable if done in 2 days. We had the wrong setup and some poor weather so the first 3.5 days were less enjoyable, although the paddling on the lakes and river was still very nice.
The second half of the Bowron Lake Circuit was much nicer, to be featured in an article to follow (Dec. 19, 2016 titled Return to Bowron Lake).
The right boat would a be a stiffer one – fiberglass or kevlar, but it would still have to be a high capacity boat. A long plastic boat needs a larger kayak cart with large radius wheels. In the end, Delta Kayaks repaired the boat and they showed me their new designs that avoid these kinds of problems.
We started paddling in the latter part of February and continued through to mid-November, but we are putting all the boats away for the winter now. Some video footage of late paddles on the river, some more videos, and features on some local lakes will be posted over the winter:
In late October in Kamloops fall colours adorn the riverbanks, especially on the North Thompson River. I launched at Pioneer Park and paddled downstream to the confluence, then turned upstream paddling steadily against current to the Halston Bridge and back.
This same route was paddled in March (Up the North Thompson) and will be hope to return in early spring and fall in the next year. I spotted an osprey, two great blue herons, a kingfisher, and eagle, a flock of buffleheads, seagulls, and the usual crows, magpies, and other birds. No other boats were on the rivers on this mild fall day. Our “orange corridor” on the Thompson Rivers is a special place in October.
While on Kauai, we stayed on the North Shore and chose to paddle the Hanalei River on a cloudy, warm day. We rented boats from Kayak Hanalei and launched into the river. These were 11 foot sit-on-top kayaks. Rudderless, tubby, buoyant, and slow.
We turned upstream and paddled for about 2.2 miles into the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. With a constant downstream flow, the kayaks stopped and turned if we stopped paddling, difficult for photography.
The shoreline was all flowering shrubs, vines, and tropical trees. The upper part of the river became narrow and shallower. In the Refuge, we spotted many birds, turtles, and fish.
We turned and paddled downstream for 3 miles to the mouth of the river where it emptied into the surf at Hanalei Bay. Entry into the ocean would be difficult, better suited to surfboards than tubby kayaks.
The final leg of 6 miles of paddling was upstream and into the wind. These types of kayaks are neither efficient, nor comfortable, but the effort is worth the experience on the river.
Kauai has the only navigable rivers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Hanalei River is the second longest. We hope to paddle the Wailua River next time.
Although we really enjoyed the river, we found the boats to be klunky, wandering, and uncomfortable. We know that rental companies buy them because novices can get back in if they spill, the boats can take a beating, and they are inexpensive but it is like playing tennis with a pickleball racquet. Next time we will paddleboard on the river.
The Cariboo River starts under the western side of the crest of the 8000 foot glaciated Cariboo Mountains. On the other side of the Cariboo Range, McBride and the Fraser River lie 27 km to the east. The northern end of Wells Gray Park is 27 km to the southeast.
There are many large icefields that drain down into the Upper Cariboo River Valley at 2010 m (6600 feet). The river flows west and is joined by a number of creeks also draining glaciers and snowfields. After about 35+ km it enters Bowron Provincial Park.
McLeary Lake is the junction point of the Isaac River (draining 38 km long Isaac Lake) and the Cariboo River. From McLeary Lake, Bowron paddlers go 6.3 km downstream to Lanezi Lake.
From McLeary Lake this view is to the east up the Cariboo River Valley into the Cariboo Range.
Even in early September, snow covered the peaks along the Cariboo River Valley as we paddled downriver.
The river empties into Lanezi Lake then into Sandy Lake (a 20 km section) The evening light shone onto the upper slopes the Cariboo Mountains, as seen from the north shore of Sandy Lake.
From Sandy Lake, the river continues its westward flow into Unna Lake, then south out of Bowron Lake Provincial Park. Paddlers completing the Bowron Circuit veer northwest into Babcock Creek for 400 m, then must portage up Babock Creek for 1.2 km to Babcock Lake. From Unna Lake, The Cariboo River itself runs south for 9 km where the Matthew River joins it from the east, but it cannot be paddled safely. Cariboo Falls is 1.5 km downstream, an 82 foot drop.
From the confluence with the Matthew River, the Cariboo River continues its southward path. There is a dangerous gorge 3 km downstream from the Matthew River confluence (upstream from Kimball Lake). About 3 km farther downstream the river is the centerpiece of Cariboo River Provincial Park. The river meanders through the park for 24 km before draining into Cariboo Lake.
Cariboo Lake and the channel to the smaller lake is about 13 km long, then the river continues its southward journey for about 9 km then turns west for another 16 km, joining the Quesnel River at Quesnel Forks. There are several rapids along this section of the river so paddlers will want to pull out by the southern end of Cariboo Lake.
The Cariboo River is a tributary of the Quesnel River which flows west then northwest to Quesnel where it meets the Fraser River. It is difficult to measure the length of the Cariboo River as it meanders through valleys, but it is about 140+ km from its source to Quesnel Forks. We paddled about 30 km of its length before turning north toward Bowron Lake. We would like to paddle south from Unna Lake to the end of Cariboo Lake (43 km) in this remote valley in the Cariboo Mountains some day. Its on our list….