Walloper Lake is a small high country lake just off the Coquihalla Highway near Lac le Jeune, but it is always a pleasant paddle, especially on a quiet midweek day.
There is a good boat launch at the Provincial Park picnic area.
There are a few cabins and some homes along the lakeshore, but much of the lake has a forested shoreline.
We were fortrunate to have mild weather on a fall day.
Reflections of both the sky and lodgepole pines followed us around the 4.7 km shoreline.
With no wind the lake had a glass-like appearance.
The reflected color in the lake had more color than the sky…
On weekends in the summer this is a busy fishing spot, but in the off-season it is a quiet retreat for a peaceful paddle.
By October, there are very few other boats on Paul Lake, but the water in the lake is still warm and if the day is not windy, paddling is still a good activity. Conditions usually don’t become too cold until mid-November.
The easiest launch is from the beach at the provincial park. A loop around the whole lake (article) is about 12.5 km.
On this paddling day, silvery light on the east end of the lake greeted me. For paddlers, the light on the water is part of the scenery.
The sun tried to break through the haze at the marshy east end of the lake.
The south side of the lake has forested steep slopes. A breeze moved the kayak down the lake toward Gibraltar Rock.
It is always best to check the wind forecast before heading out. As the winds picked up, the day’s paddle was shortened to about half the lake. A few more outings in the kayak will end the season so each day on the water is valued. We may get to do the other end of the lake before the end of fall….
By October, there are very few other boats on Paul Lake, but the water in the lake is still warm and if the day is not windy, paddling is still a good activity. Conditions usually don’t become too cold until mid-November.
The easiest launch is from the beach at the provincial park. A loop around the whole lake (article) is about 12.5 km.
On this paddling day, silvery light on the east end of the lake greeted me. For paddlers, the light on the water is part of the scenery.
The sun tried to break through the haze at the marshy east end of the lake.
The south side of the lake has forested steep slopes. A breeze moved the kayak down the lake toward Gibraltar Rock.
It is always best to check the wind forecast before heading out. As the winds picked up, the day’s paddle was shortened to about half the lake. A few more outings in the kayak will end the season so each day on the water is valued. We may get to do the other end of the lake before the end of fall….
We paddle the lakes of the Interior all summer, then once the river becomes quieter, we return to paddle upstream and back. Our favorite launch is at Pioneer Park.
The current on the South Thompson River is slower than the North Thompson or the combined Thompson River so we can make good progress upstream. On this day the wind was blowing from the east so it was a slow process to advance to the Yellowhead Bridge and beyond.
It takes anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes to get to the bridge, depending on the season (the river runs quicker during freshet) and the winds. There is a nice green space corridor past the Jack Gregson Trail.
Backroads Mapbook
Past the bridge the river runs faster as gravity “slingshots: the water around the curves. With an S-shape between downtown and Valleyview, it is usually a good idea to paddle across the river to wherever the water is flowing more slowly.
The green corridor on the sides of our rivers is home to birds and small mammals. We paddle upstream, then turn the boat downriver whenever the time seems right. The more open skies of the west lay in front of us.
The boat launch at Pioneer Park is our return landing spot after a good paddle up the river.
When fall arrives, we return to paddle the river. The boat launch at McArthur Island becomes a mud flat in the late fall, but there is still enough water to launch out in September and October, although each year is different. Once out in the Thompson River, the water moves quickly so progress is slow upstream. We paddle up then around the east end of Rabbit Island.
In some years during freshet, much of Rabbit Island is under water, but by September sand banks rise above the river on the south side.
At the west end of the island, we can see down into Kamloops Lake, a good paddle one-way with a pick-up at Cooney Bay. With the loop route, we turn upsteam and find the slowest water to engage. Sometimes it is better to hug into Rabbit Island (especially in low water) and sometimes it is better to go up the middle of the channel. The water is always faster next to McArthur Island, though.
As we work our way upstream, reflections in silver light remind us that the extra effort to paddle upstream is all worth it.
This is a route we do every year so we will return to repeat the paddle in 2017. Watch for us on the river.
Even though this lake was right next to the Okanagan Connector, we found it be a delightful spot for an easy paddle. There is a pull-off into a small Recreation Site for northbound vehicles.
The launch spot is a good one with lots of parking. The paddle around the shoreline is about 4 km.
Grassland hills surround the lake.
Reflections from the sky into the lake on a calm summer day was a bonus for a day of kayaking.
We spotted numerous birds around the lake including this row of ducks.
A heritage building stands over the east side of the lake. One of the Hudson Bay Brigade Trails passed through just in behind this spot, on its way to Quilchena.
Photos tell the story far better than words.
We will return to paddle Courtney Lake again, especially in spring to watch the waterfowl and shoreline birds.
Ross Moore Lake can be hard to get to. We have skied and snowshoed into the lake in winter. We have biked into the lake from Lac le Jeune and run to the lake from a parking area area Fred Lake, but driving in with a kayak requires a circuitous route via the Long Lake Road. Most of the 15 km backroad route is unmarked so a good map or a GPS is helpful.
There is a small Recreation Site on the southeast corner of the lake for a hand launch.
The lake sits at 4185 feet (m) and a paddle around the shoreline is about 3 km.
Ross Moore is surrounded by high country forest with some swampy areas and some flooded trees along the shoreline. The Rocky Mountain Rangers cabin stands on the north shore of the lake
There were loons on the lake, killdeer on the shoreline, and deer along the route in. Although it is a bit of a journey in with a kayak, it is a nice lake for a shorter paddle on a summer or fall day.
We were fortunate to be given a tour of the production facility for Delta Kayaks in Maple Ridge and see the latest innovations in design. The owner talked to us about how the kayaks have evolved over the years. I had a 2006 Delta kayak and the new ones have a number of improvements.
“Its v-shaped hull, pronounced chine and moderate rocker offer paddlers a smooth transition to edge and impressive tracking. It features our Press-Lock hatch system, multi-position Contour II Seat System, front deck Day-Pod, dual-density soft grip handles and innovative bungee risers.”
Hatch covers improvements were welcome since neoprene breaks down over time and rigging can’t always hold the plastic covers in place snugly.
I recently replaced a seat in one of my kayaks. I find the Delta seat to be very comfortable, but the ability to adjust it is also very welcome.
Strong handles are important for portaging, but also for everyday hauling. The new handles are longer and reinforced at both ends.
A day pod is a small hatch in front of the cockpit. I had one on another boat and it was a good place to put small items or a small
An 18.5 foot plastic high capacity kayak is great for storage, but it is harder to lift, portage, transport, and store.
The whole issue of portaging is important. If we put a very long, flexible kayak on a tiny kayak cart, we are asking for flex-caused damaged. The 18.5 footer will be repaired and restored, but a good rule of thumb would be to use a larger radius tire cart, a set of rear wheels or pick a stiffer boat for challenging portages (like Bowron Lakes).
The new 17 foot performance touring boat is 22.5″ across the beam which will make it faster through the water.
I have found the Delta to have a roomy cockpit, a comfortable seat, and great handling so I hope to test run the new 17′ at some point in the spring.
Community Lake is acessed by driving up to Knouff Lake, then turning onto the Community Lake FSR. The backroad to the site is a good one, but there were lots of potholes over the last kilometer. The best launch spot is at the Community Lake Recreation Site.
The lake sits at 1370 meters (4500 feet) in high country forest, but the area has been extensively logged and replanted.
The paddle around the shoreline is 3.5 km. A few small islands make this an interesting route.
I spoke to a fisherman who had spotted a cougar earlier that morning. He said there was a cry from the bush, likely a kill for the predator.
From the lake the summit of Tod Mountain could be spotted to the east. Community Mountain is a sprawling high plateau between the Sullivan Range and Tod Mountain. The highest point is a forested crest at 1600m (5250 feet).
This is a quiet and pleasant spot for a summer or fall paddle.
We paddled Leighton Lake on a warm summer weekday. This popular fishing lake has a good boat launch for easy access.
In spring, summer and early fall, there are usually lots of ducks and geese on the lake, especially in shallow bays
Grasslands and high country forests surround Leighton and Tunkwa Lakes.
A rock bluff covered in orange crustose lichen can be found at the southwest corner of the lake
The loop around the shoreline of Leighton Lake is about 3.3 km, winding through each little bay.
Since Tunkwa and Leighton Lakes are popular fishing destinations, paddlers should pick non-prime times to avoid running into boats, lines, and concerned fishermen. Tunkwa was one of the lakes used for the World Fly Fishing Championship in 1993 and remains a productive and popular fishing lake.
“Tunkwa and Leighton Lakes lay approximately twenty minutes drive from either Savona or Logan Lake along a good gravel and dirt road. Tunkwa Lake Provincial Park s comprised of 5,100 hectares of grassland, forests, creeks, wetlands and lakes on the Thompson Plateau.
The area was used for hunting and fishing by First Nations peoples, but its elevation and long winters
discouraged permanent residence. A transportation corridor was likely used from Kamloops Lake up Durand Creek and down Guichon Creek towards the Nicola River for trade. The first mining claims were established in nearby Logan Lake as early as 1871, but little development occurred for the next ninety years. Full scale development of the mines nearby started up in the 1960s. There were some claims in the Tunkwa Lake area also, and there is a story that a trapper was paid to over-winter in a cabin near the lakes just to protect the claim. Winters are long in this high country!
The area was used by ranchers and homesteaders early in the twentieth century in the Meadow Creek area, the Guichon Creek Valley and in some of the grassland areas toward Tunkwa and Leighton Lakes. Ranching continues to be active in these highland plateaus.
Tunkwa and Leighton Lakes were made larger by damming the outlets. Downstream grazing lands benefit from a summer supply of water from these reservoirs. This occurred as early as 1909 when James Leighton funded a project to use the headwaters of Guichon Creek. By putting a ditch into Tunkwa Lake and anotherat Leighton Lake, with dams on both to feed Durand Creek as needed, he was able to provide irrigation and domestic water for the ranches on the southern hills
above Savona. James Leighton came from Scotland to California in the 1850s and then moved to Vancouver Island. He went on to Barkerville, then Lytton with his uncle while still a teenager. He became an agent for Barnard’s Express, and then moved to Cache Creek where he and his new
wife took care of the telegraph. In 1881 he received the contract to carry the weekly mail from Cache Creek to Kamloops and on to Spallumcheen. They movedo Savona and over time Leighton took up ranching,acquiring 1,800 acres, with another 2,400 acres leased. He took on the task of running the ferry at Savona, was District cattle overseer, Fisheries Officer and superintendent of the B.C. Express. In James’ retirement he published some of his reminiscences in The Sentinelnewspaper in Kamloops. He passed away in 1945 at the age of 94.
Tunkwa Lake was named after the Indian word “Toonkwa” which means Goose Lake. It was established as a Provincial Park in 1996 out of recommendations from a Provincial Management Plan process for the area. The lake features one of the top ten fisheries in the province, specializing in the famous Kamloops fighting trout. The two lakes also provide stock for other lakes in British Columbia. There are extensive grasslands surrounding the lake, with bluegrass, rough fescue, needle-and-thread and blue bunch wheatgrass. Grassland birds like meadowlarks, curlews, killdeer and vesper sparrows nest in the spring. Riparian zones, swamps and ponds are home to waterfowl such as ducks, geese, loons,grebes and sandpipers. The surrounding forests are habitat for moose, deer, bears, coyotes, lynx, bobcat, cougars, rabbits, marmots, eagles, kestrels and grouse. Campers can stay at either Tunkwa or Leighton Lake and a total of 275 sites are available for fishermen, hunters, ATVers, hikers and geocachers, and anyone who loves the outdoors. Recreationalists can visit nearby Logan Lake for supplies and services.
Portaging a kayak is always a challenge. If the track is flat and smooth, the small kayak carts work fine, especially with a light kayak. We have done a number of portages with relative ease, but we also had one hard portage when our cart had a flat tire on Murtle Lake.
We did the full Bowron Lake Circuit and were challenged by many of the portages. The long (18.5 feet) plastic kayak was broken in 4 places getting through the portages. Some thoughts on the challenges of plastic portage problems are offered here.
Weight Problems
Light kayaks are easier to pull and are less prone to damage.
One of the ways to reduce the weight is to go light – freeze dried food. small stoves, no fluids.
Another way to minimize weight is to use large portage bags to empty the boat and carry the weight on your back.
With a large portage bag, the kayaker can either hike the bag through, then jog back or she/he can wear the bag and pull the boat
Structural Problems
Some kayaks are just not designed to be pulled with a load along a portage track. Rings are usually inserted into the top of the hull, but if the construction is light, they can pull out. I pulled out both the front and the back on the Bowron Lakes.
A long plastic boat will have some flex and if the track is very rough (as per Bowron Portage #2 and #4), the front and back end of the kayak will “wow” and can develop cracks at the stress points, right at the edge of the kayak cart. Two hull cracks let in water for which we did a backcountry repair. We used Crazy Glue (thanks to Ian), kevlar tape (thanks to Bob), and duct tape (thanks to Shiraz).
Poor Portage Tracks
Although we liked some of the Bowron portages, we found some of them very difficult for a kayak.
Some were narrow and rough, hard to get a kayak around.
Portage #1 was long and had a lot of elevation gains. This was hard, but reasonable.
Portage #2 was terrible. The track from Kibee Lake to Indianpoint Lake has steep sections, is very rough, has muddy sections, and obstacles that the kayak must be pulled over (then dropped, where the damage occurs). This is not a credit to BC Parks. This section is embarrassingly bad and broke my kayak 3 times.
Portage # 4-5 was more than terrible. It was awful. There are two portages from Isaac Lake down to McLeary Lake and the last one is rocky, rough, steep, and kayak-damaging. This portage needs a total redesign.
Cart Problems
The kayak carts sold to kayakers are fine for shorter, groomed cart tracks, but are unsuitable for rougher, longer tracks. Canoe carts have bigger wheels and go over the obstacles more easily. The larger carts are a biut harder to load onto the backs of the kayaks though.
We used the puncture-proof tires and these are safer than the air-filled tires, but they are a little harder to pull over obstacles.
To avoid the bowing problems of plastic kayaks, back wheels can be used to support the back end of the kayak. Unfortunately, the wheels have small, hard tires and also don’t clear the obstacles easily. Nevertheless, we will bring them next time we do the Bowrons to avoid the bowing kayaks and damage problems.
Pulling the kayaks isn’t easy. Kayak manufacturers don’t design boats with good pull systems.
Repair Issues
In the backcountry repair is not easy. We used Crazy Glue (recommended), kevlar tape, and duct tape.
What is your plan if the boat can’t be paddled? The Bowron route is backcountry and very remote.
Redamaging the boat is an issue so emptying the boat is recommended.
We like the Bowron Lakes, but we will only return when we can resolve the portage issues.
There are 3 access points to launch a boat on Kamloops Lake – Savona, Tobiano, and Cooney Bay. To paddle into Cooney Bay, drive to Tranquille, but stay left and drive to the end of the bumpy road. From the parking lot, boats have to be hauled down to the edge of the river through the cottonwoods. From the beach paddlers can launch into the river to get around the point past the outlet of Tranquille Creek and into Cooney Bay.
Even on a windy day, Cooney Bay is partly sheltered by bluffs. Rocky hills and dry slopes rise above the north side of the lake. This is a good area to spot bald eagles, ospreys, loons, and sometimes pelicans.
A great blue heron launched from the beach as we paddled down to Battle Bluff.
The paddle around the bay and down to the rocky cliffs of Battle Bluff is 3.2 km. Winds may be stronger around the first part of Battle Bluff, but if not, the additional distance is another 1 km. A return shoreline paddle is 8.4 km. The shoreline past Battle Bluff is less interesting. On a calm day we have also crossed the lake and have done a loop route.
We spotted a number of birds from our kayaks, including one of the newly-fledged immature eagles from the aerie near Battle Bluff.
Kamloops Lake is not a good choice for most paddlers on a windy day, but on a calm day, the paddling is excellent and there will likely be no one around, especially on a weekday.
The whole area is very scenic and worth the extra effort to get the boats down to the shoreline and back.
While paddling and hiking on Salt Spring Island, we launched out of Fulford Harbour. We were able to hand launch in low and hide tide from a point along the Isabella Point Road. Drummond Park is also fine for launching, but only at high tide. At the other spot 1.8 km along the road, we were able to drive right onto the beach for an easy launch and landing (at N48 45.480 W123 26.992).
On a windy day, paddlers can stay in the harbour going up one shore and back by the other for about 7.3 km. The ferry uses this harbour too, but the smaller ferry has a small wake and poses no problem.
We paddled out along the western shoreline and around the corner of Isabella Point for a return paddle of 10 to 15 km. The paddle along the other shoreline and out towards Beaver Point and back is about 16 m.
The crossing over to Portland Island (Gulf Islands National Park) is about 12 km return. To go right around the island and back is about 18 km. This route involves crossing Satellite Channel which is the main route for all the ferries. If paddlers try this route, they should bring a marine radio and tune in to Channel 11. There are 3 campsites on the island for a marine basecamp adventure (link to more information).
We enjoyed the south end of Salt Spring Island for its quieter roads, forested trails and scenic coastline using both Ruckle Park and Fulford Harbour as launch spots.
Between Sullivan Lake (Knouff) and Badger Lake is another shallow lake. Official topographic maps label it as Knouff Lake but the locals call it Little Knouff Lake. Sullivan (Knouff) Lake got its name from James Knouff who built a log cabin on the shore near the Knouff Lake Resort. Later, Sullivan Mill was established on the shore and the owner asked for the name to be changed. Locals still call it Knouff Lake though.
There are a couple of homes on the east side of the lake and a gavel road on the west side where a vehicle can be parked next to s short steep trail for a one-boat launch and in this case, a stand-up paddleboard.
The lake is shallow for almost the entire area, except for a deeper spot on the northwest side.
Taking photos from a paddleboard is never easy. The best system is to sit down to get an on-the-water shot.
The distance around the shoreline is 2.5 km.
In late season the lake is so shallow that care must be taken not to catch the fin (or kayak rudder) on sunken logs and vegetation.
Little Knouff Lake is not a destination lake for paddling, but if we are trying to complete 100 lakes in our area, it is one more to try.
Between Sullivan Lake (Knouff) and Badger Lake is another shallow lake. Official topographic maps label it as Knouff Lake but the locals call it Little Knouff Lake. Sullivan (Knouff) Lake got its name from James Knouff who built a log cabin on the shore near the Knouff Lake Resort. Later, Sullivan Mill was established on the shore and the owner asked for the name to be changed. Locals still call it Knouff Lake though.
There are a couple of homes on the east side of the lake and a gavel road on the west side where a vehicle can be parked next to s short steep trail for a one-boat launch and in this case, a stand-up paddleboard.
The lake is shallow for almost the entire area, except for a deeper spot on the northwest side.
Taking photos from a paddleboard is never easy. The best system is to sit down to get an on-the-water shot.
The distance around the shoreline is 2.5 km.
In late season the lake is so shallow that care must be taken not to catch the fin (or kayak rudder) on sunken logs and vegetation.
Little Knouff Lake is not a destination lake for paddling, but if we are trying to complete 100 lakes in our area, it is one more to try.
Stump Lake is a great lake to paddle when it is not too windy. If paddlers just opt to drive there without checking the forecasts, they may be facing difficult conditions since it is a windy area, a favorite for windsurfers. Generally speaking it is calmer in the morning and winds pick up by 11:30 in the morning. It is always best to do a final check on the weather forecast the night before when wind speeds are also provided. The best launch spot on Stump Lake is halfway down the lakeshore on the west side.
Since the lake is 19km around the shoreline, we opted to do the south end one day (link) and the north end another day.
Paddling up the eastern shore, looking back at the western hills, summer-yellowed grassland slopes frame the basin of the lake.
A few homes are located on the lake, but most are set back, higher up the slope on level ground. On the west side are reedy shallows below the highway.
Although winds were forecast to arrive in the afternoon, the day was sunny and calm during the morning paddle. Ducks, blackbirds, and marsh wrens were in motion in the reed beds at the north end and in shallow bays. Ospreys hunted overhead, ready to dive, beating the fishermen to a catch. Dragonflies and blue damselflies flitted over the lake’s surface, combing for the most recent hatch, caddisflies newly emerging on the shoreline. The clear water of the lake is a refreshing change from the darker, millfoil-choked lakes of the highlands.
horsetails on the shoreline
launch at N50 21.791 W120 22.760
For kayakers who want a longer paddle with easy shoreline access, a nice setting and not too many boats, Stump Lake is a great choice. Just check the wind forecast first.
There is a good boat launch at the Provincial Park picnic area.
There are a few cabins and some homes along the lakeshore, but much of the lake has a forested shoreline.
We were fortrunate to have mild weather on a fall day.
Reflections of both the sky and lodgepole pines followed us around the 4.7 km shoreline.
With no wind the lake had a glass-like appearance.
The reflected color in the lake had more color than the sky…
On weekends in the summer this is a busy fishing spot, but in the off-season it is a quiet retreat for a peaceful paddle.
