I camped at Big Bar Lake Provincial Park to hike trails in the Marble Range, but I also paddled Big Bar Lake. In sunny weather I paddled 3 times, doing the whole lake (12 km), with some sections twice.
With creeks running off limestone mountains, Bit Bar Lake is a marl lake with clear water shoals.
There were 4 pairs of loons on the lake, some with chicks born in the spring.
Rolling hills surround the lake, which is really in the southwest corner of the Cariboo.
Yellow water lilies were in bloom in several shallow bays.
The east and west ends have marshy areas. In this bay, the Marble Range can be seen, the nearest peaks just 6 km south.
We hiked to the top of the Jesmond Lookout on one of the days and we looked down at Big Bar Lake from above.
We hope to return to the area to paddle White Lake and Meadow Lake, probably camping at Big Bar Lake again.
White Lake is a medium-sized alkali lake in the southwest end of the Cariboo. It is accessed by driving west on the Meadow Lake Road past Meadow Lake. The hand lunch area is at the west end of the lake. We drove in from Big Bar Lake on backroads.
There were no homes or grazing fences, nor any evidence of camping or fishing. The lake was shallow and devoid of any visible riparian zone vegetation.
We dipped our paddles into the water and started a perimeter paddle. At a shallow spot, I swirled mu paddle blade through a soupy alginous mass on the lake bottom.
A few bleached logs lined the lakeshore.
On close examination Owe saw that the lake was full of millions if brine shrimp. As we watched below our long kayaks we saw a myriad of invertebrates in the shallows, but also in the muck below. What looked like a barren lake was really a shallow alkali salt ecosystem A few ducks were feasting on the underwater life but watched us warily from the shoreline.
The paddle around White Lake was 7.5 km. Our plan was also to paddle Meadow Lake but the wind dictated a second paddle back at Big Bar Lake instead.
It is unlikely that White Lake is paddled by anyone in any given year. The larger deeper lakes of the region attract campers, fishermen and a few paddlers. Since Big Bar Lake is outstanding, go there first.
Lac la Hache (Axe Lake) is a 2300 ha. lake on Highway 97N in the Cariboo region. There are several access points along the east side of the lake to launch a canoe or kayak, but since the lake is 16 km long, it is impractical to try to paddle the whole lake in a 34 km loop. It is easier to divide the lake into 3 separate paddle outings instead. We stayed overnight in Lac la Hache Provincial Park near the north end so we used the Park boat launch and did an 8 km loop on that end of the lake.
Paddling north from the launch we followed the shoreline past lakeshore homes and some pasture lands. The shoreline has grassland and forest with small shrubs, willow, rushes, alders, and poplars.
As the lake narrowed, both sides of the channel became wetlands.
From the kayak, I spotted eagles, ospreys, loons, and a variety of wetland birds.
Paddlers can work their way up the channel into Cariboo Nature Provincial Park, a marshlands to the north, then back to the lake, following the west shore, looping back around a small island.
We will return to paddle the south end of the lake next time.
Big Bar Lake is located at the north end of the Marble Range on the southwest corner of the Cariboo. the easiest access is to follow the Big Bar Road which leaves Highway 97 eight km north of Clinton. The 34 km road road is a good gravel road passing through rolling forested hills. The best access is from Big Bar Lake Provincial Park (where we camped), using the boat launch at the west end of the lake.
We paddled Big Bar Lake twice. The first time was a paddle around the whole lake, a 10 km loop taking about 2.3 hours.
There are a few older, abandoned farm buildings on the northeast end of the lake. Above us, on the south side the peaks of the Marble Range had a fresh mantle of snow.
old homesteads
the Marble Range to the south
loons on the lake
a stormy night on the lake
A second day of paddling was cut short as stormy weather moved in. We paddled half of the lake, but the last part was slow progress into winds from the west.
Big Bar Lake is one of our favorite spots and so we will return to hike nearby and to paddle more of the lakes of the region.
The chain of lakes from Davis Lake to Flat Lake would best be done in the spring while there is still lots of water in the channels between the lakes and before the mosquitoes hatch. The start is on Davis Lake, 20 km southwest of 100 Mile House. The chain is usually done in one to three day trips. All of the portages are short, but are not well-marked.
It would be best to scout the route out and that will be my intention. A one-day trip with a small kayak, a round-trip of about 10 km with 3 portages each way is planned.
With this sort of adventure it is the portages that are the issue. Two people with a good packing system can carry a canoe much more easily than kayakers can manage. A small 10 foot kayak will slip over the shoulder with a padded shoulder insert to allow carrying for short distances. I also have a SUP sling-carry system I will be trying out. Two people can also carry one kayak and then come back for the other, but kayaks are more awkward than canoes for portaging. .
The route to the end and back is 12 portages, but split into two days this can be done.
Flat Lake Provincial Park is mostly undeveloped but has rocky islets, bogs, marshes, riparian and aquatic vegetation, ducks, and a variety of birds including loons, herons, as well as beavers and muskrats.
Because it is fairly inaccessible except by canoe and portaging, it offers paddlers a chance to experience wild wetlands firsthand.
Moose Valley is located 22 km west of 100 Mile House, accessed by the Gustafson Lake Road. The Moose Valley Access Road turns off and follows the chain of lakes to a campsite on Marks Lake. The road does continue onto the end of Maitland Lake, but it is a rougher section. Paddlers can start at either lake and work their way southeast to Canoe Lake.
Although all of the portages are short, they are not suitable for canoe or kayak carts. Each boat will have to be carried to the next lake, pond, or waterway. In spring, though, there is more water between the lakes allowing for paddling through wetlands or hand-lining in shallow areas. There is one rocky portage near the Beaverlodge Lakes.
At the southeast end of the chain, the route goes from Long Lake to Moose Lake to Canoe Lake in a loop. From the south end of Canoe Lake, there is a portage out to an access road for a second vehicle pick-up.
The lakes are shallow and don’t make great fishing. After June 1st, mosquitoes are likely. After August 1st the wetlands will be drier meadows so the ideal time would be in May. Options include camping at Marks Lake and going right through in a long day or paddling part way through the chain and camping at rough campsites on Canoe Lake or Long Lake. Another option is to go out and back in a day.
The through route is only 7.5 km end-to-end from Marks Lake to the portage out to the Gustafson Lake Road. The advantage of doing it all in a day (or camping at the trailhead and doing it all in a day) is that the canoes or kayaks can go through the chain unloaded, making the portages much easier.
The right time to do this route is in May or early June to have higher water levels, low mosquito populations, relatively warm conditions, and spring birds and ducks along the way. We haven’t done this route yet, but its on our list for this year.
The first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit is a challenge with difficult portages, some rough campsites, and long paddles. The return to Bowron Lake, the second half of the Circuit, is a much more enjoyable wilderness experience. The Bowron River empties into Lanezi Lake then there is another shorter downriver paddle to Sandy Lake, an easy paddle with the current. From Sandy Lake there are no long or difficult portages all the way to the launch/landing at the north end of Bowron Lake.
There are wide sandy beaches on Sandy Lake and fine scenery back up the Cariboo RiverValley. The weather had improved by this point.
The Cariboo River runs along between Needlepoint Ridge on the north and the Cariboo Mountains on the south side. There was a fresh layer of snow on the 8000 foot mountains.
Sandy Lake is a fine spot for paddle-camping but it is an even better with clearing skies.
From Sandy Lake, there is another 3.7 km paddle down the river. Paddlers can choose to continue downriver to Unna Lake to camp and to hike the trail down to Cariboo Falls or they can veer into Babcock Creek to start the uphill (but reasonable) 1.1 km portage to Babcock Lake. For kayakers, a series of short portages becomes a series of chores – unloading, hauling, and reloading. Across Babock Lake is a 2.8 km paddle followed by two shorter portages with one brief paddle in-between (0.4 km, 0.6 km, 0.3 km). Once we entered the Spectacle Lakes, the portages were over and we just paddled down the lake to a fine campground on a point with views in both directions
The route continued up the lake to the northeast, for 13 km down Spectacle Lake into Swan Lake and then to the outlet. The west end of Bowron Provincial Park has lower and more rounded hills as compared to the mountainous east side.
After days of wind and rain, it was wonderful to have calm and clear conditions for the final part of the trip.
From the north end of Swan Lake a channel drains down toward Bowron Lake and the Bowron River enters from the east along this 3km section of easy paddling.
The start of fall brought some color the shores of Bowron Lake. The final paddle across Bowron Lake is 7 km. The BC Parks landing is just a dock and steep walkway in a marshy area, followed by a steep trail, an awkward set-up for a loaded kayak. We would land over at the boat launch on the west side next time and walk back to get our vehicles.
After having done the whole circuit, in retrospect, we found the first half of the Bowron Lakes Circuit to be a demanding challenge for long kayaks, especially in marginal weather and muddy conditions.
The second half was an enjoyable backcountry paddle in beautiful terrain. The Return to Bowron Lakes section from the Cariboo River to the end of Bowron Lake is so good that we may return to paddle the west end only. This shorter route goes from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake (with an extra hike to Cariboo Falls), a 60 km out-and back route with 3 short portages, although the portages could be done with an unloaded boat if camping on Spectacle Lake.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit is one of the top paddling destinations in the world, a week-long paddling, portaging, and camping wilderness challenge. Reservations are needed to venture onto the circuit and an orientation is required before starting on the 2.4 km portage to Kibee Lake. We had our long kayaks loaded onto kayak carts to pull up the hill early in the morning. Our first mistake was not to bring large portage packs (70 – 100 L) to take the heavier items out of the boats. With all the weight in the hull storage chambers, the boat was hard to pull up the hills and it was very difficult in muddy and rocky sections. Some kayaks have a good handle system for an easier pull. My kayak had a poor design and the handle was pulled right out, leaving a gaping hole in the top of the boat. I then pulled it from the rear (aft) handle and eventually pulled that one out too. With a complicated strap design, the kayak could still be pulled, although more slowly and with much grumpiness. It was demanding to pull a weighted kayak the 2.8 km distance, but we eventually made it to Kibee Lake for an easy 2.2 km paddle across the lake.
The first half of the trip has all the hardest portages. The Bowron Lakes Circuit is better for canoes than for kayaks. The gear can be unloaded into portage bags and two people can pull the empty canoe on a larger cart. Canoes passed us on the portages and we passed the canoes on the water.
The second portage was 2.0 km, but it was steep, rocky, muddy, and rough. My 18.5 foot kayak took a beating with the ends bowing up and down as it went over rocks, logs, and through mud holes. On Indianpoint Lake, water poured into the cockpit from a significant crack under the seat, right at the edge of where the kayak cart was. We all found the first two portages to be difficult and discouraging, but we camped on Indianpoint Lake that first night before the rains came in. We enjoyed the campsite (#5). Our friends Ian and Wilma were much better prepared for this venture and Ian had packed Crazy Glue so the crack on the bottom of the boat was partly repaired, though it would not stand for more heavy portaging.
On Day 2, at the end of Indianpoint Lake, the third portage was much easier, a big relief for a kayaker with a boat with three holes in it. We paddled down the west arm of Isaac Lake and stayed at a larger campsite (#15 on Wolverine Creek) with an open shelter, a welcome retreat in the rain.
The paddle down Isaac Lake is a long one. Although we had hoped to get right down the lake, wind, hail, then rain forced us to camp at a primitive site. The tent pads were raised, but were not filled with proper material so they filled up with water. That was a wet night. Isaac Lake is the longest lake and is prone to wind and rain (more grumpiness set in).
The next day we paddled down to the end of Isaac Lake with some rain. The kayak leaked a bit but another paddler (Bob) gave me some kevlar tape to cover the crack. After lunch at the shelter at the end of the lake, we started down the portage to McCleary Lake. Although a lot of it was downhill, it was very rough and quite steep at the bottom. This ordeal resulted in another crack in the hull of the boat. The campground at the bottom of the Isaac River cascade was full, so wet and discouraged, we paddled down McCleary Lake, but we were pleased to find the old (1935) cabin unoccupied so all 5 of us crowded into the small, dark single room cabin. By foraging we found enough materials to start a fire in an old wood stove (thanks to Ian), so we were able to dry out some of our gear.
I used the last of the kevlar tape and crazy glue on the hull of the boat after finding a second crack. I made the decision to unload the boat for any portage for the rest of the trip. Any further expansion of the cracks would make the boat impossible to stay afloat. Another paddler gave me some duct tape later on the same trip. With all the support offered and some care, we got the damaged boat all the way through the Circuit.
The weather started to improve on the 4th day as we paddled across McLeary Lake and down the Cariboo River.
We could finally see some of the rugged Cariboo Ranges rising above the lakes.
The Bowron Lakes Circuit can be done in 3 to 4 days if paddlers have a good portage pack system and two people for each boat. The days would be long and tiring, but if the weather cooperated, it can be done. The portages are harder for kayakers. The right boat*, a larger canoe cart, and a good portage pack would make a big difference.
The first half of the Circuit is a demanding one with 3 hard portages and one easier one. Isaac Lake is a long paddle, but quite enjoyable if done in 2 days. We had the wrong setup and some poor weather so the first 3.5 days were less enjoyable, although the paddling on the lakes and river was still very nice.
The second half of the Bowron Lake Circuit was much nicer, to be featured in an article to follow (Dec. 19, 2016 titled Return to Bowron Lake).
The right boat would a be a stiffer one – fiberglass or kevlar, but it would still have to be a high capacity boat. A long plastic boat needs a larger kayak cart with large radius wheels. In the end, Delta Kayaks repaired the boat and they showed me their new designs that avoid these kinds of problems.
Green Lake has clear green water and a forested shoreline. It is a marl lake, a lime-rich mud-bottom and gravel post-glacial lake, common to a number of the larger BC Interior lakes. The Marble Range stands above the Cariboo to the west and silts and sediments rich in calcite and lime have worked their way into the lake basin by glacial scouring, deposition, and run-off. The result is the green-blue water of the lake, especially in the shallow areas. The lake is 17 km from end to end and a paddle around the whole shoreline would be 45 km, so we focused on the southeast end of the lake for this trip.
Although private homes line about half of the southern shore of the lake, there are 13 lake access lanes for boaters to launch canoes or kayaks. There are also BC Parks campgrounds and lakeshore lands so many more launch spots are possible. One of the best spots is at the end of the Green Lake South Road where there is good parking and a hand-launch spot at the edge of the forested shoreline of the east end of the lake.
Some deeper bays allow for exploration. We paddled through a narrow channel to get into a hidden back bay. The islands and bays of the east end provide some interesting paddle exploration areas.
Weekends can be busy in summer, but for the most part the lake is fairly quiet on weekdays and off-season. The South Cariboo is relatively flat providing wider skies for afternoon views across the lake and for evening sunsets.
Winds arise in the late morning in most Interior lakes so paddling is best done in the morning or evenings.
Many of our lakes are over-built with private homes with little access to the shoreline for visitors. Large powerboats and other loud noise-makers dominate the open waters. Some of the lakes become trophic, unhealthy for water plants and animals because of increased phosphorus and fecal coliform from shoreline degradation, seeping septic fields, cattle manure, and run-off rich in fertilizers. But Green Lake has so far been able to avoid the worst ravages of overuse. For now it is still a place to enjoy the lakewaters, the forest, and quiet of rural areas.
We explored the shoreline of the Boyd Bay Wetlands at the western end of the lake in the previous year and we will return to paddle there in the next year. Over time we will complete all 45 km of shoreline at Green Lake.
“Take a course in good water and air; and in the eternal youth of Nature you may renew your own. Go quietly, alone; no harm will befall you.” (John Muir)
There were 4 pairs of loons on the lake, some with chicks born in the spring.
Rolling hills surround the lake, which is really in the southwest corner of the Cariboo.
Yellow water lilies were in bloom in several shallow bays.
The east and west ends have marshy areas. In this bay, the Marble Range can be seen, the nearest peaks just 6 km south.
We hiked to the top of the Jesmond Lookout on one of the days and we looked down at Big Bar Lake from above.
We hope to return to the area to paddle White Lake and Meadow Lake, probably camping at Big Bar Lake again.
T
