Tag Archives: Wells Gray Park

On the West Arm of Murtle Lake

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During September a few years ago, we traveled to Murtle Lake before smoky conditions in smothered the area and we decided to shorten our time there once the smoke moved in.    On the second day we paddled the west end of the west arm of Murtle Lake.   We launched from Birch Beach and paddled past Smoker Island.    The wide bay at the mouth of File Creek and Anderson Creek is shallow and muddy so we kept our distance from the treed shoreline.    The distance from Birch Beach to the landing at Diamond Lagoon was about 7.5 km.

At the end of the previous day and in the early morning, there was some smoke, but there was also some clearer skies too.   We got an early start to take advantage of calm conditions on the lake.

 

The mountains to the north of Anderson Lake and Anderson Creek are part of the Mobley Range.   There is a trail to Anderson Lake, but access to Mobley Mountain would be bushwhacking.

There is also a trail to a launch at File Creek.   the river can be paddled for about 4 km upstream.   McDougall Lake is another 5 km beyond.   Draining into File Creek is Kostal Creek, running down from Kostal Lake (6km from the confluence).    An old trail can be hiked to Kostal Lake, but it is mostly impassable at this time.   The Goat Peaks rise north of File Creek.

We entered Diamond Lagoon by paddling a short distance down the Murtle River.   The lagoon area is through a lava field.    At the end of Diamond Lagoon are rapids on the river.   A sign warns paddlers not to pass the sign.

A rough landing can be made on the south shore.   A trail follows the river down to McDougall Falls.

We landed in a small bay below the Diamond Lagoon shelter.    We had lunch and explored the area a bit.   The shelter would be welcome in the rain or the cold, but it is a bit primitive otherwise.    There was an outhouse and a bear cache there for campers.

The smoke continued to roll in as we paddled back along the south shore of the lake.

We paddled past the Tropicana Campsite and then across the lake to our own campsite, a total of 16 km.

On a day with better conditions, we would have hiked down to the falls and back, but paddling in the smoke limits the views, but it also takes a toll on the lungs.   We spent 3 day at Murtle Lake, but we plan to return to do some more hiking in the area, perhaps in the north arm next time.

Mahood Lake Tour

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A new video is now ready on YouTube:

We paddled the 20km+ length of the lake and camped on the east end of the lake.   We hiked down to Sylvia and Goodwin Falls on the second day and paddled back on the third day.

Click the YouTube link on the menu bar for more KamloopsKayak videos.

Sunsets on Leo Island

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Leo Island is in the West Arm of Murtle Lake.   We have camped there several times.     It is a marine campsite accessed by canoe or kayak only.    We drove to Blue River, then up into the mountains (23 km) to the trailhead for Murtle Lake.    It is a 2.5 km portage to the lagoon launch.    From there it is a 14 km paddle to the island.

The island has a sandy spit with views east and west down the arm of the lake.   When the sun sets the lake lights up with color.

A few photos were taken at different times on different nights.   Click an image for a lightbox view and a caption.

These images were from one trip to Murtle Lake and we have made several over the years.  We plan to return next year.

 

Central Mountain Trail (Murtle Lake)

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To get to Murtle Lake, we have to drive to Blue River, then drive up into the mountains for 23 km.   At the trailhead we have to load the kayaks onto carts and portage for 2.5 km.   At the boat launch on Murtle Lagoon, we then paddle for 12 to 14 km to camp at a marine campsite.    On this trip to Murtle Lake, we camped on Leo Island.    On this particular trip, I did a solo paddle and hike to Central Mountain.    I paddled 1.5 km to the trailhead at a sign on the shoreline.    There wasn’t much of a landing so I hauled my kayak up the rocky shoreline, then put on my hiking boots.  

The forested trail was steep and grown-over in some sections.    It is not hiked much so the trail is indistinct so some navigation was required.   

The hike to the top of the mountain is 7.5 km.   Near the top I passed through a subalpine meadow with views down the West Arm of Murtle Lake.   Bears frequent the area so I made noise on the way up.   The open meadows on top are part of a caribou migration route, but I didn’t spot any.  

The alpine area was open with meadows and rock outcrops, and wide views.  

From the southern edge of the summit. I could see down to Leo Island below, our marine campsite.  

From the summit, I chose to continue east to the edge of the slope break to see if I could see down to the lake.  

From a viewpoint the North Arm of Murtle Lake was below, with the Wavy Range above, on the east side.  

I continued farther north and came to a viewpoint of the north end of the North Arm of Murtle Lake. The Murtle River drains into the lake from the Cariboo Mountains in Northern Wells Gray Park. 

This turned out to be a long day of hiking.    The return hike is 15 km, but I added more distance by traversing across the top of the mountain east, then north.  

The hike is really only for experienced backcountry hikers who can navigate and be self-sufficient.    It is not a hike I will do again, but I am happy to have done it this day.   A Google EArth Fly-Over is shared here for an overview of Central Mountain. 

On Clearwater Lake

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Clearwater Lake is one of my favorite lakes to paddle and so I paddle some part of it every year.    Over the years, we have paddled the entire lake quite a few times and we have stayed in every marine campground on both shores.    Last year I paddled Azure and Clearwater Lakes.   With the heat, smoke, and difficult conditions this year, I did not get to the lakeshore until September.    We camped at Falls Creek and launched our boats in the early afternoon.

Normally we would want to paddle the lake in the morning when the winds are usually light, but there was little wind at the start so we took a chance and paddled up the lake.   Both shores are forested and sometimes steep.   We followed the east side up the lake with the goal of getting into the main part of the lake where there are views toward the northern mountains.

The winds whipped up blowing from the northwest making progress difficult.   After paddling into a headwind for half an hour, we turned around and returned down the shoreline.

From the boat launch to the widening of Clearwater Lake just past Diver’s Bluff is about 7 km.    We did not get that far on this day, but that will be the goal for the next time.  The lake narrows at the south end, continuing to Osprey Falls, but we landed at the boat launch this time, completing about 9 km of paddling.

We will be back to paddle and camp on Clearwater Lake for as long as we can.

 

 

On Murtle Lake

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In mid-September we drove to Blue River, then followed the Murtle Lake Forest Service Road to the end of the road.   We loaded our gear into portage packs and into the kayaks and fastened the boats to kayak carts, then portaged 2.5 km to the Murtle Lagoon.   At the launch, we reloaded the hatches and paddled west.   The original plan was to turn north and paddle 8.5 km up to the Strait Creek Campground.   On Day 2 we would hike to Wavy Crest Peak.   On Days 2 – 5 we would paddle down the west arm and back.   Smoke was forecast to arrive on Day 2, so we abandoned the hike and paddled west first.

With a 3 hour drive followed by loading the boats and packs, then a 1.5 hour portage, we got a later start and paddled through the lagoon out to Murtle Lake.   At the mouth of the lagoon are two campsites, each on a beach.  We had a 10 km headwind and some cloudy-smoky skies.

It takes about an hour to paddle across the wide bay/space to Sandy Point.    On our right was, the Wavy Range (part of the Cariboo Mountains) rises above Strait Lake and the north arm of Murtle Lake.

With windy conditions and some in the paddling group struggling with a longer paddle, it took 3 hours to get to the area near Leo Island.    We knew the lake well from having paddled it several times.   We had planned to camp in one of the 5 campgrounds in the area.   Some were full so we picked one that had lots of space.   We landed at Birch Beach and set up camp.

The sun lasted to about dinner time before disappearing behind clouds and smoke.

On the second day, we paddled to the west and explored the lake (another post to come).   The smoke continued to worsen by the end of the second day so we decided to paddle out on the third day.   The sun could be seen through the smoke in the morning.

We paddled east to Fairyslipper Island on a calm day.

This small island has golden sand beaches so I stopped to explore it.

The paddle back to the Lagoon only took 2 hours in calm conditions.    We left Ladyslipper Island and paddled across two wide bays to the lagoon.

Getting the loading done right, balancing of the boat on the cart, the ties done properly, and using a good portage pack can make the portage much easier.   We passed a number of people struggling with too much weight in the boat, ties coming loose, and the challenging pull.    We had been in to Murtle Lake quite a few times so we have established some practices that help us (article).

It was unfortunate that the smoke came in, but we had enjoyable paddling on the lake and so we will return again.

More Information:

 

 

Azure Lake and Clearwater Lake

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I took the water taxi from the campground area at the end of Clearwater Lake to the Rainbow Falls Marine Campsite on Azure Lake and paddled back to the start.    In the  first day, I paddled  my kayak for 15.5 km to Four and a Half Mile Campground in stormy conditions.    On the next morning I paddled for 5.7 km to the end of the lake, then down the Azure – Clearwater River for 3 km to Clearwater Lake.

Paddling down the Clearwater River is relatively easy, avoiding shallow gravel shoals on the east side and deadheads and sweepers on the west side.   The middle of the main channel is the best choice.

Once on the main lake, experienced paddlers go down either shoreline, not down the middle of the lake.   The choice depends on the direction of the wind and which campsites may be the end point for the day.   The western shoreline is a bit shorter with smaller bays.  From the north end of the lake to the narrow neck of the lake at Diver’s Bluff is 15.5  km.

As I paddled down the west shore (which is more scenic since there are better views of the Azure Ranges), I could see back to Mt. Huntley and the peaks on the north side of Azure Lake.   I passed by several campsites – Barella, Huntley View, and Archer Creek on my way to the Diver’s Bluff Point.

On the east side, Azure Peak and Zodiac Peak rise above the lake.   The ridges of Azure Peak and Zodiac Peak can be reached from Ivor Creek Campground, but there is no trail and the climb is 1800 m (5900 feet).

After Diver’s Bluff the lake starts to narros.    Grey clouds threatened another afternoon storm, but I got in before any difficult weather came in.   Nevertheless I faced a 10 km headwind all the way down the lake.

It is 5.7 km from Diver’s Bluff to the boat launch, but my truck was back at the campground so I paddled down the narrowing lake-river channel to just before the falls, another 2.7 km.

After 7 hours of continuous paddling I arrived at the landing spot.    I paddled 32 km that day, enough for a well-deserved rest that night.

I am not recommending this kind of trip.   Paddling on Azure Lake in a storm is not advisable, even for experienced paddlers.   Paddling all day can be done, but the route is best done in 4-5 days, camping at different marine campsites on the way back.   I have done it both ways and when I return to do the trip again, I will opt for 3 days, a compromise plan, but weather also adjusts our plans, so it may be another adventure on the lakes.

 

 

 

Diver’s Bluff and Eagle’s View

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We padded up Clearwater Lake in Wells Gray Provincial Park to the Diver’s Bluff Marine Campground, then hiked the Eagle’s View Trail.   We launched our boats (canoes and kayaks) and headed up the west shore of the lake.   With calm conditions we were at our destination in about 75 minutes.

 

 

From the boat launch at the end of the Wells Gray Corridor to Diver’s Bluff is 6 km.   We got an early start for our paddle up the lake.   The lake was calm and quiet.   In the distance we could see Garnet Peak and Mt. Huntley at the end of the lake.

 

The deepest part of Clearwater Lake is at Diver’s Bluff, named after the cliffs where adventurer’s jump into the lake not far from the the campsite.

 

We landed on the shoreline then donned our hiking boots for a steep 3km return hike to the bluffs overlooking the lake.

 

This pleasant trail winds through a damp forest before climbing the ridges above.

 

From Eagle’s View the south end of Clearwater Lake stretches down to Osprey Falls.

 

To the southeast the Trophy Mountains rise above the hills of Wells Gray Park.

 

To the east Azure Peak stands above the lake.

 

We returned back to the shoreline and then paddled back down the lake.   A light tailwind made the paddle back easier.

 

Clearwater Lake is a wonderful destination to paddle (and to camp) so we were pleased to return to do a 12 km paddle plus the 3 km hike, an all-day venture (with 2 hours of driving each way).