Tag Archives: Wells Gray Park

On the West Arm of Murtle Lake

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During September a few years ago, we traveled to Murtle Lake before smoky conditions in smothered the area and we decided to shorten our time there once the smoke moved in.    On the second day we paddled the west end of the west arm of Murtle Lake.   We launched from Birch Beach and paddled past Smoker Island.    The wide bay at the mouth of File Creek and Anderson Creek is shallow and muddy so we kept our distance from the treed shoreline.    The distance from Birch Beach to the landing at Diamond Lagoon was about 7.5 km.

At the end of the previous day and in the early morning, there was some smoke, but there was also some clearer skies too.   We got an early start to take advantage of calm conditions on the lake.

 

The mountains to the north of Anderson Lake and Anderson Creek are part of the Mobley Range.   There is a trail to Anderson Lake, but access to Mobley Mountain would be bushwhacking.

There is also a trail to a launch at File Creek.   the river can be paddled for about 4 km upstream.   McDougall Lake is another 5 km beyond.   Draining into File Creek is Kostal Creek, running down from Kostal Lake (6km from the confluence).    An old trail can be hiked to Kostal Lake, but it is mostly impassable at this time.   The Goat Peaks rise north of File Creek.

We entered Diamond Lagoon by paddling a short distance down the Murtle River.   The lagoon area is through a lava field.    At the end of Diamond Lagoon are rapids on the river.   A sign warns paddlers not to pass the sign.

A rough landing can be made on the south shore.   A trail follows the river down to McDougall Falls.

We landed in a small bay below the Diamond Lagoon shelter.    We had lunch and explored the area a bit.   The shelter would be welcome in the rain or the cold, but it is a bit primitive otherwise.    There was an outhouse and a bear cache there for campers.

The smoke continued to roll in as we paddled back along the south shore of the lake.

We paddled past the Tropicana Campsite and then across the lake to our own campsite, a total of 16 km.

On a day with better conditions, we would have hiked down to the falls and back, but paddling in the smoke limits the views, but it also takes a toll on the lungs.   We spent 3 day at Murtle Lake, but we plan to return to do some more hiking in the area, perhaps in the north arm next time.

Sunsets on Leo Island

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Leo Island is in the West Arm of Murtle Lake.   We have camped there several times.     It is a marine campsite accessed by canoe or kayak only.    We drove to Blue River, then up into the mountains (23 km) to the trailhead for Murtle Lake.    It is a 2.5 km portage to the lagoon launch.    From there it is a 14 km paddle to the island.

The island has a sandy spit with views east and west down the arm of the lake.   When the sun sets the lake lights up with color.

A few photos were taken at different times on different nights.   Click an image for a lightbox view and a caption.

These images were from one trip to Murtle Lake and we have made several over the years.  We plan to return next year.

 

Central Mountain from Murtle Lake

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To get to Murtle Lake, we have to drive to Blue River, then drive up into the mountains for 23 km.   At the trailhead we have to load the kayaks onto carts and portage for 2.5 km.   At the boat launch on Murtle Lagoon, we then paddle for 12 to 14 km to camp at a marine campsite.    On this trip to Murtle Lake, we camped on Leo Island.    On this particular trip, I did a solo paddle and hike to Central Mountain.    I paddled 1.5 km to the trailhead at a sign on the shoreline.    There wasn’t much of a landing so I hauled my kayak up the rocky shoreline, then put on my hiking boots.  

The forested trail was steep and grown-over in some sections.    It is not hiked much so the trail is indistinct so some navigation was required.   

The hike to the top of the mountain is 7.5 km.   Near the top I passed through a subalpine meadow with views down the West Arm of Murtle Lake.   Bears frequent the area so I made noise on the way up.   The open meadows on top are part of a caribou migration route, but I didn’t spot any.  

The alpine area was open with meadows and rock outcrops, and wide views.  

From the southern edge of the summit. I could see down to Leo Island below, our marine campsite.  

From the summit, I chose to continue east to the edge of the slope break to see if I could see down to the lake.  

From a viewpoint the North Arm of Murtle Lake was below, with the Wavy Range above, on the east side.  

I continued farther north and came to a viewpoint of the north end of the North Arm of Murtle Lake. The Murtle River drains into the lake from the Cariboo Mountains in Northern Wells Gray Park. 

This turned out to be a long day of hiking.    The return hike is 15 km, but I added more distance by traversing across the top of the mountain east, then north.  

The hike is really only for experienced backcountry hikers who can navigate and be self-sufficient.    It is not a hike I will do again, but I am happy to have done it this day.   A Google EArth Fly-Over is shared here for an overview of Central Mountain. 

On Clearwater Lake

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Clearwater Lake is one of my favorite lakes to paddle and so I paddle some part of it every year.    Over the years, we have paddled the entire lake quite a few times and we have stayed in every marine campground on both shores.    Last year I paddled Azure and Clearwater Lakes.   With the heat, smoke, and difficult conditions this year, I did not get to the lakeshore until September.    We camped at Falls Creek and launched our boats in the early afternoon.

Normally we would want to paddle the lake in the morning when the winds are usually light, but there was little wind at the start so we took a chance and paddled up the lake.   Both shores are forested and sometimes steep.   We followed the east side up the lake with the goal of getting into the main part of the lake where there are views toward the northern mountains.

The winds whipped up blowing from the northwest making progress difficult.   After paddling into a headwind for half an hour, we turned around and returned down the shoreline.

From the boat launch to the widening of Clearwater Lake just past Diver’s Bluff is about 7 km.    We did not get that far on this day, but that will be the goal for the next time.  The lake narrows at the south end, continuing to Osprey Falls, but we landed at the boat launch this time, completing about 9 km of paddling.

We will be back to paddle and camp on Clearwater Lake for as long as we can.

 

 

On Murtle Lake

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In mid-September we drove to Blue River, then followed the Murtle Lake Forest Service Road to the end of the road.   We loaded our gear into portage packs and into the kayaks and fastened the boats to kayak carts, then portaged 2.5 km to the Murtle Lagoon.   At the launch, we reloaded the hatches and paddled west.   The original plan was to turn north and paddle 8.5 km up to the Strait Creek Campground.   On Day 2 we would hike to Wavy Crest Peak.   On Days 2 – 5 we would paddle down the west arm and back.   Smoke was forecast to arrive on Day 2, so we abandoned the hike and paddled west first.

With a 3 hour drive followed by loading the boats and packs, then a 1.5 hour portage, we got a later start and paddled through the lagoon out to Murtle Lake.   At the mouth of the lagoon are two campsites, each on a beach.  We had a 10 km headwind and some cloudy-smoky skies.

It takes about an hour to paddle across the wide bay/space to Sandy Point.    On our right was, the Wavy Range (part of the Cariboo Mountains) rises above Strait Lake and the north arm of Murtle Lake.

With windy conditions and some in the paddling group struggling with a longer paddle, it took 3 hours to get to the area near Leo Island.    We knew the lake well from having paddled it several times.   We had planned to camp in one of the 5 campgrounds in the area.   Some were full so we picked one that had lots of space.   We landed at Birch Beach and set up camp.

The sun lasted to about dinner time before disappearing behind clouds and smoke.

On the second day, we paddled to the west and explored the lake (another post to come).   The smoke continued to worsen by the end of the second day so we decided to paddle out on the third day.   The sun could be seen through the smoke in the morning.

We paddled east to Fairyslipper Island on a calm day.

This small island has golden sand beaches so I stopped to explore it.

The paddle back to the Lagoon only took 2 hours in calm conditions.    We left Ladyslipper Island and paddled across two wide bays to the lagoon.

Getting the loading done right, balancing of the boat on the cart, the ties done properly, and using a good portage pack can make the portage much easier.   We passed a number of people struggling with too much weight in the boat, ties coming loose, and the challenging pull.    We had been in to Murtle Lake quite a few times so we have established some practices that help us (article).

It was unfortunate that the smoke came in, but we had enjoyable paddling on the lake and so we will return again.

More Information:

 

 

Azure Lake and Clearwater Lake

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I took the water taxi from the campground area at the end of Clearwater Lake to the Rainbow Falls Marine Campsite on Azure Lake and paddled back to the start.    In the  first day, I paddled  my kayak for 15.5 km to Four and a Half Mile Campground in stormy conditions.    On the next morning I paddled for 5.7 km to the end of the lake, then down the Azure – Clearwater River for 3 km to Clearwater Lake.

Paddling down the Clearwater River is relatively easy, avoiding shallow gravel shoals on the east side and deadheads and sweepers on the west side.   The middle of the main channel is the best choice.

Once on the main lake, experienced paddlers go down either shoreline, not down the middle of the lake.   The choice depends on the direction of the wind and which campsites may be the end point for the day.   The western shoreline is a bit shorter with smaller bays.  From the north end of the lake to the narrow neck of the lake at Diver’s Bluff is 15.5  km.

As I paddled down the west shore (which is more scenic since there are better views of the Azure Ranges), I could see back to Mt. Huntley and the peaks on the north side of Azure Lake.   I passed by several campsites – Barella, Huntley View, and Archer Creek on my way to the Diver’s Bluff Point.

On the east side, Azure Peak and Zodiac Peak rise above the lake.   The ridges of Azure Peak and Zodiac Peak can be reached from Ivor Creek Campground, but there is no trail and the climb is 1800 m (5900 feet).

After Diver’s Bluff the lake starts to narros.    Grey clouds threatened another afternoon storm, but I got in before any difficult weather came in.   Nevertheless I faced a 10 km headwind all the way down the lake.

It is 5.7 km from Diver’s Bluff to the boat launch, but my truck was back at the campground so I paddled down the narrowing lake-river channel to just before the falls, another 2.7 km.

After 7 hours of continuous paddling I arrived at the landing spot.    I paddled 32 km that day, enough for a well-deserved rest that night.

I am not recommending this kind of trip.   Paddling on Azure Lake in a storm is not advisable, even for experienced paddlers.   Paddling all day can be done, but the route is best done in 4-5 days, camping at different marine campsites on the way back.   I have done it both ways and when I return to do the trip again, I will opt for 3 days, a compromise plan, but weather also adjusts our plans, so it may be another adventure on the lakes.

 

 

 

Diver’s Bluff and Eagle’s View

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We padded up Clearwater Lake in Wells Gray Provincial Park to the Diver’s Bluff Marine Campground, then hiked the Eagle’s View Trail.   We launched our boats (canoes and kayaks) and headed up the west shore of the lake.   With calm conditions we were at our destination in about 75 minutes.

 

 

From the boat launch at the end of the Wells Gray Corridor to Diver’s Bluff is 6 km.   We got an early start for our paddle up the lake.   The lake was calm and quiet.   In the distance we could see Garnet Peak and Mt. Huntley at the end of the lake.

 

The deepest part of Clearwater Lake is at Diver’s Bluff, named after the cliffs where adventurer’s jump into the lake not far from the the campsite.

 

We landed on the shoreline then donned our hiking boots for a steep 3km return hike to the bluffs overlooking the lake.

 

This pleasant trail winds through a damp forest before climbing the ridges above.

 

From Eagle’s View the south end of Clearwater Lake stretches down to Osprey Falls.

 

To the southeast the Trophy Mountains rise above the hills of Wells Gray Park.

 

To the east Azure Peak stands above the lake.

 

We returned back to the shoreline and then paddled back down the lake.   A light tailwind made the paddle back easier.

 

Clearwater Lake is a wonderful destination to paddle (and to camp) so we were pleased to return to do a 12 km paddle plus the 3 km hike, an all-day venture (with 2 hours of driving each way).

 

 

 

Divers Bluff Loop on Clearwater Lake

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At the very end of the Wells Gray road is the boat launch.   Everywhere beyond is best explored in a boat.   We can paddle 21 km north on one shoreline and 21 km back on the other shoreline.   When the river volume drops in August, we can even paddle the additional 2.5 km up to Azure Lake by using back channels, eddies, and some shoreline lining, if necessary.    Azure Lake provides another 24 km of paddling each way.   For a day paddle, though, we can paddle up the lake to Divers Bluff Marine Campsite and back. 12.6 km on the lake.    Any canoe or kayak can paddle up the lakeshore but seaworthy boats are needed to cross the lake if it is windy.  We paddled up the east shore on a smoky day.

The lake was busy with tour groups in canoes as we headed north.

There were no winds so our progress was steady along the shoreline.

The orange-red rocks of the cliffs at Divers’  Bluff can be seen at a distance.

The journey/route to the marine campsite is 6 km, one to one and a half hours of paddling.

We had lunch on the beach then checked the campsites and a short trail on the terrace.   There is also a 1.5 km trail to a lookout, but on a smoky day, we did not attempt it.

On the shoreline were some hooded lady’s tresses (spiranthes romanzoffiana), an orchid.

By late summer, there are fewer varieties of flowers, but daisies and asters continue to bloom until first frost.

On the way back the winds rose so we stayed close to the shoreline and so did this family of mergansers.

We try to paddle Clearwater Lake every year and Azure or Murtle Lake very third year.   Smoky conditions have discouraged us from camping in these remote marine campsites this year and last year so we are waiting for our next clean-air opportunity.

More Information:

Paddling Murtle Lake (West)

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At the end of September and into the first days of October, we drove to Blue River, then went into Murtle Lake for 4 days, paddling into the west arm.

From Blue River we drove up the narrow Murtle FSR for 27 km to the parking area.   The parking lot is well-laid out and has information boards and an outhouse.   The portage in is 2.5 km and takes about 1.25 hours.   The Park Operator was working on the track and so it was a bit rough, but we appreciated the maintenance being done on the bridges, the parking area, the launch area and the portage path.

I used a kayak cart, but I could see that a canoe cart (with bigger wheels) would be better for a longer kayak and a bigger load.   Its still a good workout to get in to Murtle (and back out is harder after paddling).   Paddlers can rent a cart at Blue River or pick it up at the lake.

 

 

From the end of the track, we launched our loaded kayaks into Murtle Lagoon.   At the west end of the lagoon Snookwa Creek enters the lagoon, draining the southern slopes and the Stevens Lakes up in Indian Valley.   The distance through the lagoon is 1.6km.   There are two campgrounds right at entrance into the lake and we have stayed there before right next to the sandy beach.   This is a good choice if conditions are windy on arrival.   Paddlers either head north or west from this point.   The first campsite on the way north is Strait Creek, a wonderful spot.

 

This time we pointed our kayaks to the northwest with no winds to slow us down.   Our route passed Sandy Point Campground at 5.4 km.   The Wavy Range dominated views to the  east.

At 8.9 km we passed the point where the Park Operator’s cabin sits looking over the lake.  By going in straight line, we saved some distance and Fairyslipper Island was passed at 11.2 km.   There are 4 West Arm campgrounds not far past the island – Leo Island, Birch Beach, Cottonwood, and Tropicana.   We paddled down the middle of the lake and found Leo Island unoccupied so we landed and set up a base camp for the duration of this trip,  a first day total of 13 km of paddling.

 

Leo Island has 3 designated fire rings with room for 2-4 tents at each.   There is also a bear-proof food cache and an outhouse.   The operator had left some sections of windfallen trees for firewood.   The beaches are sandy and the water is clear and clean, especially in the fall.

A sandy spit reaches out south from the campsite, but there is another sandspit on the other side too.   When I hiked the Central Mountain Trail on another trip, I could see the sand bars on either side extending toward the shoreline of the lake.

 

Nearby are 3 alternate campsites:

  • Cottonwood Campsite (0.6k m north)
  • Birch Beach (1.0 km northeast)
  • Tropicana (1.3km west)

 

Any of these sites will make a good basecamp for paddling and exploration of the west arm (more information on where to go in the next story).

 

To follow:

  • Murtle Lake – A Guide to the West Arm

From the Beaches of Clearwater Lake

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If we drive up the Wells Gray corridor, the road ends at the boat launch on Clearwater Lake,  From that point on, it is boat access only.   Clearwater Lake stretches for 22 km northward and along the way are 8 marine campsites.   Beyond the end of the lake the Clearwater River drains Hobson and Azure Lakes.   One option is to take the water taxi to the end of Azure Lake and paddle all the way back, a total of about 50 km.   We have paddled the lake many times but this time we chose to launch and paddle up the east side of the lake to enjoy the quiet beaches of Clearwater Lake.

On a 3 day forecast of stormy weather we paddled up the lake and found the marine campsites mostly empty.   Bar View is a prime campsite with a sandy point and beach about 8.5 km up the lake.

We also paddled up to Ivor Creek (canoes and kayaks only) and Huckleberry campsites (both have fine beaches too) and back (10 km return) before the weather came in.

Rain fell to the south and north in waves.   We had our tarps ready and enjoyed watching the progress of the storms from our campsite.

Late in the afternoon, the sun started to shine through the waning rainclouds.  A promise of some blue skies first showed themselves in the west.

In the evening, the alpenglow on Mt. Huntley was an unexpected and welcome sight.

By the third day, the weather had cleared and we enjoyed a calm paddle back to the boat launch, sorry to leave the beautiful beaches of Clearwater Lake.

Mahood Lake Camp

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We returned to paddle all of Mahood Lake and spent 3 days paddling, hiking, and camping in this quiet corner of Wells Gray Park.   We launched our kayaks from the west end of the lake at the Provincial Park Campground.   We had hoped to paddle down to Travertine Campsite on the north shore of the lake, but it was not easy to find on a windy day (we were more focused on keeping our boats afloat), so we paddled on to the end of the lake, a 21.5 km route.

We picked the Mahood River North campsite and we were delighted with the user-maintained site/facilities.   It had a pit toilet, a metal (bear-proof) food cache, some user-made tables, a tarp-rigged cooking shelter, a firepit, and a number of tent pads.   The pebble beach sloped down to the lake, and it is west-facing so the rounded rocks warmed up in the afternoon sun each day.

Each evening, we looked west down the lake to watch the sun set.

Behind the campsite were lava cliffs overlooking a cedar-hemlock forest.   The Mahood River is adjacent to the campsite.   The river runs east for 6 km, down to meet the Clearwater River, descending in a series of rapids, chutes, and waterfalls.   A fisherman’s trail runs down the north side to pools in the canyon and a Parks trail runs down the south side of the river from the Mahood River South campsite (only accessible by boat) to Sylvia-Goodwin Falls and beyond to the confluence of the two rivers (a separate article on this site).

The end of the lake is a very quiet spot, more than 20km from any roads/vehicles.   We saw a few power boats on the lake for a half day of fishing, but no one else camped on the lake.   Along the 21+ km route we noted 4 beaches on the north side that could be used for landings/camps if the weather dictated a shortened paddle own the lake.   On the way back, we found Travertine campsite (a hand-made sign called it Candle Creek) and landed there to check it out for a future stay.

This is a fairly long paddle for kayaks or canoes and because it is a big lake, care for wind and storm conditions is important (see Mahood Lake).   Launching in the morning is a good idea and paddlers can expect to take about 5-6 hours to reach the end of the lake.   Afternoon weather seemed to come in from the west, blowing down the lake.   We used longer ocean-going (seaworthy) kayaks with lots of storage space for camping gear.

Mahood Lake is a fine location for paddle camping and the beach/campsite at the end of the lake is a perfect wilderness retreat, especially to watch evening sunsets.

Notes:

  • Boat launch – N51 52.997 W120 31.418
  • Travertine campsite – N51 56.043 W120 21.061 (13.6 km down the lake)
  • Mahood River North campsite – N51 55.957 W120 14.782
  • Mahood River South campsite – N51 55.697 W120 14.999

 

Clearwater Lake Loop

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One of the best paddling destinations we try to do every year is Clearwater Lake.   The boat launch is at the very end of the Wells Gray Corridor Road.   Beyond the launch is 22 km of  wilderness lake with treed shorelines and snow-capped mountains rising above.   Along the shoreline are a few wilderness marine campsites.   We have enjoyed going to the far end of Azure Lake and paddling back 45 km over several days.    For a day trip, though, we head up the lake past the curving eastern shoreline below Easter Bluffs.

Once we have gone up the lake a few kilometers, the views start to open up.   We can see Mt. Huntley at the end of the lake.    Azure Lake lies beneath the mountain and to the northeast.   It drains into Clearwater Lake by a short section of the Clearwater River.

If the winds cooperate, we go up the lake and then cross to the other side to Divers Bluff.   This is the deepest part of the lake.   Campers at the marine campsite there sometimes dive off the bluffs into the lake on a warm summer day.   There is a 1.5km trail to the top of the bluffs too.   We landed on the beach for lunch.   The bay there is sheltered from the winds coming down the lake.

We returned down the lake back along the western shoreline.   Thunder heads started to form over Chain Meadows and the Easter Bluffs in the boat launch area.

Paddling Clearwater Lake is best done in a seaworthy kayak or canoe.   Winds often come up in the afternoon and it can be more challenging.    We stay close to the shoreline when the winds come down the lake.

On this day we had tailwinds helping us back to the launch, but a thundershower burst over the last leg, bringing hail and rain.

The route up the shoreline to Divers Bluff and back is about 13km, taking about 3 hours.   There are two beaches at campsites along the route and we spotted two other small beaches for potential landing spots too.   Small waterfalls and streams enter the lake from both sides.   We paddled this loop in May when there were no power boats on the lake.   The only sounds were the calls of birds and a few rumblings of thunder.   We will be back for an extended paddle on Clearwater Lake.

 

Paddling Mahood Lake

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Mahood Lake lies in the western edge of Wells Gray Park, but must be approached from the west, so from Kamloops we drive to Little Fort (95 km), then west on Highway 24 (Interlakes) for 70 km, then we turn north at Sheridan Corner onto the Horse Lake Road, then the Mahood Road (8000 Rd.) for about 40 km to Canim Lake, and finally east for 15km to the west end of Mahood Lake.   This takes about 3 hours.   It can be done in a day, but the campsite at Mahood Lake is worth a night or two of paddling and hiking.

On this last trip to Mahood, I launched from the boat launch/beach at the end of the lake and headed down the lake to camp at one of the marine sites 21 km away to the east.   The winds were light at the start, but soon heavy winds came in from the northwest, so I beached about 1/3 of the way down the lake.

On this September day, the campsite was empty, the few cabins east of the campground looked locked up, there was no one on the lake, I was paddling solo, the temperature had dropped, and there was snow on top of Mount Mahood.   With a choice of braving the winds downwind, waiting the winds out on the shoreline (it actually blew for 2 days), or turning back, I decided to turn the kayak into the wind and work my way back, a slow paddle in strong headwinds.   Safe back at the launch, I went for a hike to Deception Falls and the Canim River Trail, but left Mahood Lake with the goal of paddling the whole lake another time.

Note – I paddled the entire lake at a later date.

On Azure Lake

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Azure Lake has been the subject of several stories on this website (links below), but we continue to return to paddle the lake and explore the northern areas of Wells Gray Park.   To get to Azure Lake, we would have to paddle the length of Clearwater Lake (24km), then go up the Clearwater River and portage to Indian Point.  Or, we can take the water taxi (link below) to the end of Azure Lake and paddle back.   The entire paddle one way is about 46km, but there are a number of campsites along the way (see the links below).

 

On our most recent trip, we took the water taxi to Rainbow Falls, then paddled 15km to Four and a Half Mile Campground where we stayed for two nights.  On the second day, we hiked up to Mount Huntley.   On the third day, we paddled 5.5 km to the Clearwater River, then continued on to the Osprey Falls landing, a total of 31km for that day.   An easier paddling and camping would be to stay two nights on Azure Lake and two nights on Clearwater Lake.

Although power boats can reach Rainbow Falls if the boats can get up the river, most of the boats on the lake are canoes and kayaks.   One campsite on each lake is reserved for paddlers only, but this is only a concern on busy weekends.   While we were there, campsites were empty to half-full and all were quiet.   The water was azure blue, clean, and warmer than expected.

 

We will return to Azure again soon.   It is right in our backyard, a world-class paddle-camping destination.

 Revised 12/24

 

Clearwater Lake Channel

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The launch for Clearwater Lake is 3 km up the road past the campground.  Part of the reason for this is Osprey Falls.   The Dragon Tongue lava flow blocked the Clearwater River (7600 years ago) and increased the size of Clearwater Lake, but the lava wall also created a waterfall 540m wide.   For much of the year, it is a 3m drop, but in the spring the water backs up and the falls looks more like a large area of rapids.   This view was from the Osprey Viewpoint on the Chain Lakes Trail.

Clearwater Lake Hikes 009rBefore the boat launch was built up the lake, a number of boats and swimmers had been swept over the falls.   Even now, there is still a boat launch for Clearwater Lake Tours on the east shore.   We paddled down to these docks by the campsite last year and hugged the shoreline to avoid being pulled downstream toward the falls.

This spring, I launched up the river and paddled down to look at the falls.   The river starts to pull the kayak closer to the falls so when I felt the strong pull, I moved closer to the shoreline. clearwater channel

 This is a pleasant 6 km paddle.   Just make sure you don’t paddle too close to the falls.

Clearwater Lake 002r